My destiny has changed ! They moved in, pic's on on 36

[mdbokc]

Love your small portable run. I would attach a couple of braces at 45 degrees on two of the corners across the top. This will brace it to help prevent any twisting of the frame when moving it. It can still occur the way you have it framed.

$1500 for labor only would be way, way, too high for here in Oklahoma. That would get the whole thing (4' x 16' "A" frame structure) included materials built here.

 

[Noymira]

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Looks good, I think you're doing a great job! Keep it up! I wouldn't pay someone else $1500 to do the roof either, that seems pretty pricey considering you've already got the materials and are just looking for a little help and expertise.

 

[MamaChic21]

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Thank you

I used that rope to see if the post across was even, otherwise, evreything else had been screwed in place

I've done 1 very small coop, and another coop duplex and another small coop kit I ordered online by myself and learned my lesson to add as much of ventilation as I possibly can.

The contractor that came by today said use concrete. Well, while searching online, I read somewhere where it said using rocks or stones and digging 2 ft in the ground will be like a conrete. I did just that, but the contractor said otherwise.

 

[MamaChic21]

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It's way too pricey in here too. He sees my house and thinks money grows from our trees or something lol. I will do that to the small run as you said. It makes sense, just never got to it yet but I will definately do that, thank you

 

[MamaChic21]

Quote:
Looks good, I think you're doing a great job! Keep it up! I wouldn't pay someone else $1500 to do the roof either, that seems pretty pricey considering you've already got the materials and are just looking for a little help and expertise.

Not only he wanted to over charge me, he said what I did so far was ALL wrong !!!

 

[THINGUM]

Concrete is "the best" but tamped dirt (not sand) and stones w/edges (not round), in good ground(not a swamp) are second best. when using concrete, don't make a "pool" out of it, but rather a "sleeve" for the post to set in, or it will rot off fight at the ground line. And place a flat stone or brick in the bottom of the hole for the post to sit on. Generally, 1/4 of the total length of a post should be in the the ground. The problem with structures is that over time the wind exerts enough force to weaken them when not properly braced or supported. BUT you've seen old farm buildings that have a "lean" to them. How long have they been standing there, and how much longer will they stand before they finally droop to the ground. It's not like you are going to crush 40 chickens in 10 seconds. (Baring a Tornado) in which case the whole lot, (and your car) would be gone anyway. Forge ahead --and don't forget the wine.

 

[MamaChic21]

After that over priced contractor today, I doubted my work so far. Especially what he has said about the posts being in the concrete instead of stones and dirt 2ft under, which I did just that. Now should I re-do the posts using concrete ???

seen on this picture, the posts aren't in concrete, nothing is digged really. Seeing the pic's on page 3, wouldn't it support my structure without the post being in the concrete ?

 

[THINGUM]

We're stepping on each other read #36 He's looking for work and has spotted a possible victim, strike that, customer.

 

[MamaChic21]

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when I was writing, your comment wasn't there and once I finished writting, there was your comment lol.

What do you think of post #37 ?

 

[THINGUM]

Mamachic 21 ---I've sent you a PM but am now not sure it went through ???