My near future coop.

It's been nearly a year, since I did the layout and dug the footers...Good thing that it was in rootbound ground, or I'd be digging them again...As it is, I just had to clean them up.

Progress was stopped, due to lack of funds for materials, and the personal refusal to mix over 2 cubic yards of concrete by hand. I've done it before and could have done it, but trying to cajole friends to help, is useless.

After a good paying job, in midsummer, I had a pocket full of money. As luck would have it, I was given nearly 2 Cu.Yd. of crushed limerock, from that same job, so things were looking up.

I had the posts planted in finely crushed limerock, since last year, and obviously, someone was looking out for me, and didn't allow me to jump the gun, because, while I was on vacation, in Idaho, in early June, a treetop tornado came through, and here are the results:

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As you can see, from previous pictures, I tend to leave things where I last used them, if I see no harm in it....Well, 5 ton trees and 80 lb. fiberglass ladders aren't compatible. FYI..LOL.

The tree fell directly into the area where the chicken house would be. In the next month, a friend helped me cut up the tree and get it out of the way. It pushed all of my posts askew and jostled a couple of batter boards.

This caused me to rethink the block/ wood combination, seeing as how I had also recently aquired a trailer full of used block, which just needed to be cleaned up.

So, it was off to Craigslist, for a tool/ toy which I have wanted, for a long time.

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Used 3 times. A $400 mixer for $275.

On Labor Day weekend, I got busy. Cleaned the footers, removed the posts, checked the batter boards, bought, bent and tied steel.

On Monday, I hired a neighbor kid to help with the mixing. It was a good experience for him, but I had to listen to him whine about shoveling the rock and sand into the mixer, and the concrete dust, and how I had the easy job, pushing the wheelbarrow, with 2 cu. Ft. of concrete and floating it down.

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Since then, it's been laying block, a wheelbarrow of mud, at a time, of an evening, when I'm home early enough, or about 6 hours or so, on a weekend day. 70 block in a day, what with moving block, mixing mud and laying the block, isn't bad, for 6 hours of work.

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I always say that the man who pours the footer, should have to lay the first course of block, and jobs would go so much smoother, from the ground up.

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The cut outs, in the lintel blocks, will recieve a brick sill, which will be a nice little detail. The screens, which I am currently using as my coop, will fit into these openings.


This last weekend, I also aquired another, long desired, toy. It's a 1948 Lincoln arc welder. $50, on Craigslist, and just around the corner. I had to do some minor repairs, but it works perfectly. So, I'll be making my doors out of tubular steel.

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Strange that you should ask, because I was playing with my cleaned up block, just to see what kind of size the coop would look like. Here's the thing. You need a level of some accuracy. Either a laser level or a dumpy or transit level, which, generally, requires a second hand, unless you know what you're doing, which is still a time involved process...A laser level, is a one man operation.

Just figure your block at 3 blocks equal 4'. Actually, that will be about 46 7/8", without mortar. Set your corner blocks to an elevation, and distance which you desire. I just used some dirt to raise the block to the desired height. The dirt will act as the footer, and you can adjust it, as you go along, unless you are actually going to pour a footer.

Using line blocks or string stretchers, pull your string tight and go to laying block, one against the other.

I know that some building inspector will object to my advice, but it can be done, and probably, pretty sturdilly. Depending on the permanace, you could pour concrete into the corner cells, a few vertical cells, along the distance, and a top lintel, and you'd have a pretty secure building, especially, if you put steel in the top tie beam/ lintel.

If your ground is firm, and your building is not too large, you could put it directly on the ground, leveling the first run. Otherwise, pour a footer. Have you heard of dirt concrete?

Well, I ran out of legitimate rock and sand, with about 30 lineal feet of footer left, and since Florida is mostly sand, and I had all of the broken mortar, which I had chipped off the old blocks, I started throwing it in the mixer. After all, rock is just cheap filler. It took a little more cement and water, because the filler was bigger and needed to be floated down, but it made for a rich, creamy cement.

If I have a problem with dirt floors, in the coop, I'm just going to get a tiller and mix it with cement and float it out.
 
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Royd>Strange that you should ask, because I was playing with my cleaned up block, just to see what kind of size the coop would look like. Here's the thing. You need a level of some accuracy. Either a laser level or a dumpy or transit level, which, generally, requires a second hand, unless you know what you're doing, which is still a time involved process...A laser level, is a one man operation.

SH>ahem...woman! LOL! I used to build ponds as a paying hobby, so I've got about as many different kinds of levels as any woman should rightly have.

Royd>Just figure your block at 3 blocks equal 4'. Actually, that will be about 46 7/8", without mortar. Set your corner blocks to an elevation, and distance which you desire. I just used some dirt to raise the block to the desired height. The dirt will act as the footer, and you can adjust it, as you go along, unless you are actually going to pour a footer.

SH>I was thinking about using lime to stabilize the soil, or maybe just dig a trench, add a 2x4 on edge, and fill that with concrete so I have a little easier time of leveling the footer.

Royd>Using line blocks or string stretchers, pull your string tight and go to laying block, one against the other.

SH>I can do that!

Royd> I know that some building inspector will object to my advice, but it can be done, and probably, pretty sturdilly. Depending on the permanace, you could pour concrete into the corner cells, a few vertical cells, along the distance, and a top lintel, and you'd have a pretty secure building, especially, if you put steel in the top tie beam/ lintel.

SH>I was definitely going to put rebar in several vertical cavities, and fill those with mortar mix. I was also thinking about using a face-bonding material embedded with fiberglass flakes. The lintel is the hard part; I know how hard it is to deal with mortar or concrete, and I can't imagine getting it up off the ground 6-8 feet!

Royd>Have you heard of dirt concrete?

SH>Perhaps. Are you talking about using a tiller to loosen the soil, then tilling in an inch or two of cement before you compact it and then wet it down? Only did that once, with so-so results here in our blackland clay soil. I have built footers for a straw bale shed just by mixing lime into the clay, and those worked pretty well (can you tell I'm into exploring alternative building materials? I live in a city with strict codes; I can never let them on the property! Not only do I keep illegal chickens, but I long to have one outbuilding of straw bale, one of stacked cordwood, one of earthbags, and maybe even a monolithic dome like I've seen down the highway! It would be like the 3 Little Pigs' compound, only different!)

Royd>Well, I ran out of legitimate rock and sand, with about 30 lineal feet of footer left, and since Florida is mostly sand, and I had all of the broken mortar, which I had chipped off the old blocks, I started throwing it in the mixer. After all, rock is just cheap filler. It took a little more cement and water, because the filler was bigger and needed to be floated down, but it made for a rich, creamy cement.

SH>Rich and creamy? That sounds like a peanut butter! But so would chunky...
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Royd>If I have a problem with dirt floors, in the coop, I'm just going to get a tiller and mix it with cement and float it out.

SH>I dont' have dirt floors in my coop, but I have them in my chunnel. For the first two years I just added leaves (collected in the fall) to the chunnel every couple of weeks. For the past few months, I've used straw (straw is much slipperier to walk on, and it didn't absorb very well until I had a good layer of composted leaves going). I think I'm just about ready to get in there and remove the 6" of gorgeous compost/fluffy soil and start over. I used to be able to walk through the chunnel without ducking my head, but I've noticed recently the soil level has come up so far that I have to duck (no pun intended) a little as I move around.

Thanks for the thoughts on this. I might go to the back of the property and see if I can squeeze in a little outbuilding!
 
You sound like a can do sort of gal. For pouring the top lintel, rent a mixer and some scaffold, and tell your friends to bring potluck and work clothes, and a spare bucket.
 
It's true; I assisted Dad with nearly every project he did as I was growing up, and I do love to build things (and even more, I love the demolition phase of a construction project!
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I couldn't even gather up friends for a painting party. Apparently I hang with some serious work-averters! But since I've been thinking about it, I could probably pay for some concrete worker moonlighting-type-help with that part of the project if I do the rest myself.

Thanks for getting me to think outside the box, and good luck with your project! Keep us posted, it's a beauty!
 
Well, I have finally topped out the walls. Yesterday, I finished pouring the columns and walls. Now, the fun begins.

I have altered my plans, slightly, from the original drawings, as I saw an opportunity to have an upper floor, with 400sf. So, I am going to install a gambrel roof.

I have piles of used brick, so I will be building jack arches, in each of the openings, as well as a continual brick ribbon, around the whole house. I thought that it would be a nice touch, and I've never laid an arch before.....How hard can it be.
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It will be a hybrid, as I will also be pouring a concrete tie beam, inside the brick, to support the upper floor.

BTW, I only had to purchase 6- 8x8 blocks, for the whole job, besides rock, sand, mortar, cement and steel.




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