My Plucker - Version 1 - Video of birds being plucked

Yesterday I had a second attempt with the cup type plucker. I made some changes since my last attempt which failed.

I switched from a threaded rod to a carriage bolt. Previously the nut and lock washer can undone while using it.

I had added 4 extra fingers between the rows of other finger. I removed those.

It worked an all the feather except the larger wing and tail feathers of the turkeys we did yesterday. I worked better if it rotates in oppisite the direction of the feather.

We had the turkey hung by it's feet and the cup rotate from top to down. It we had any pin feather I switched direction so the cup rotate up and it did a better job of removing those.

I tried it with a un-scalded bird and a scalded bird, it works much better when scalded.

I used a 4 " pvc cap, four rows of two finger. The finger were made from bungy cords. I used the style of finger that you cut the side to make to body of the finger narrower.

Of course we had feather every where

Tom
 
PC Thanks for the link

I think I may order one ,

I have not check out the rpm of the old sears table top saw motor as of yet but either way I will probable need one . I like the Idea of the table top saw cuz I would be able to raise and /or lower the fingers , also I was thinking that I my have to increase the size of pvc pipe from 4” to maybe 6”OR 8” to give me the height in which to raise or lower the finger , by increasing the size of PVC I know this will decrease the rpm speed of the rotation of the main unit I believe .


More food for the master minds to work with LOL

AL.
 
Quote:
The bigger the pipe the faster the surface area of the pipe will travel. It's a very
counterintuitive thing. I had to think about it for a minute before posting this.

I still like the idea of the saw. As long as you are able to control the speed you should
have good results.

I still need to get mine fired up but I'm so busy with other projects and sitting here on
BYC.
wink.png
 
Quote:
Great information. This is supporting the idea of using less fingers.

The threaded rod works great but you need washers and bolts on both sides.
Mine haven't loosened once.

As for feathers everywhere well, yup. Keep the rake handy and don't plan on
showering until after you are done.
 
Yesterday I used real fingers I ordered from Meyers, mounted them to a 3" piece
of pvc, slowed down the rpms, and, well, the results were no better than my
version 2 (4" pvc with 4" bungee fingers).

Back to the drawing board. I have at least a month till our cornish and fryers
are ready.
 
OK now ,,, I just read every post in this thread.. some very interesting stuff, to say the least..

I have a lot of comments, but they shoot out randomly, so bear with me..

I have had a plucker for over 35 years.. It is still going strong..
I do about 200 birds a year..

I also have a less expensive model plucker.. I found that the old plcker, with the fingers spaced closer together, works much smoother with less jerking and is twice as fast and cleaner as the newer model..

I am in the process of building a modified Whizbang.. I will let you know how that turns out..
my goal is to do it for under $200.oo..

the cheapest place I found for fingers is the website for the whizbang.. the author's son resells fingers purchased from Kent Co.. He includes shipping free in his prices and has price breaks on the number you buy..

I too have a table saw that I am going to reincarnate as a plucker.. It is a motorized delta. I am going to remove the top and completely gut it.
Install a drum with self centering bearings mounted on opposite sides of the cabinet and driven with a wash machine motor.. I am going to line the fingers in rows and attach metal rods between the rows to form the work surface..
for a drum, I am probably going to use PVC, or else a piece of well casing or something similar.

I am running long here, but I will be back..LOL

......jiminwisc........
 
I'm building a Whizbang right now- some of the parts are REALLY hard to find (try finding a 16" pulley and people look at you funny.) Herrick Kimball's website is great, and his prices are quite reasonable. I got my driveshaft, the 16" pulley, and fingers from him. He sells the driveshaft for around $50, whereas the local welding company quoted me $140 for the same piece. Just don't plan on him answering any email or returning any phone calls, because I called and emailed him with questions, and got nothing in response. You also won't get the confirmation email he says he'll send after your order, but it will be shipped in a timely manner.
 
Quote:
Now that is a answer to a question I was trying to answer by trial and error. Good info.
Time for version 4.

What are your feelings on speed?


Version 1 - 4" PVC cap with bungees on a 3/8" rod - Works good for cost
Version 2 - 4" PVC drum with bungees on a 5/8" rod powered off buffer - Worked well
Version 3 - 3" PVC with real fingers powered off buffer - Not as good as #2
Version 4 - In process...
 

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