ScratchNbawk
Songster
Great job, and I’m sorry about what happened to your flock. I’m sending you positive thoughts, and hope things go better this time around.
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Ok. I will set it up again in the morning. I’m going to “trust the process”. With what happened to my previous flock, you can understand my concern. Thanks for the encouragement.Don't go by thermometer. MHPs don't warm the air at all and rely on direct contact. How hot does it feel to your bare hand when you rest it on the pad? Should feel noticeably warm, but definitely not scorching.
I wouldn't close up the ventilation on the door either, that's the majority of the ventilation in your coop right now. The heat source should be placed on one side of the door or the other, so the walls can provide the draft protection you need.
80 degrees overall is really a lot warmer than I ever have my chicks at outside. We usually are around 40F to 60F when the chicks are being brooded. I leave all the ventilation open and the only solid walls are the ones immediately around the heat pad itself.
Thanks for explaining. I will set it up again tomorrow. I’m very nervous with these new chicks. But I’ll trust the process, especially with so many positive reviews.I'm sure that you've read all you can on the MHP but are you aware that the chicks must be able to touch their backs to the pad?
They really will be warm enough with the pad set to low. I don't think you can go by the temp in the "cave". I've had very good luck with the MHP outdoors even with my fall chicks.
Think of it this way: a hen doesn't keep her chicks warm 24/7. Even in cold weather they run out and play and go back under mom when they need warmth. If you lifted up the hen and held a thermometer in the space under her, I doubt it would be 95. However if you touch her underside it is much warmer than the air. It is also safer for you and the chicks. I'm scared to death of starting a fire with those red bulbs.
Whatever you decide, good luck!
Ok. I will set it up again in the morning. I’m going to “trust the process”. With what happened to my previous flock, you can understand my concern. Thanks for the encouragement.
One more question: if you had to guess, how close to the ground do you think it should be for starters? Three inches? Closer? I don’t know how small chicks really are... I’ve only had direct contact with chickens.Don't go by thermometer. MHPs don't warm the air at all and rely on direct contact. How hot does it feel to your bare hand when you rest it on the pad? Should feel noticeably warm, but definitely not scorching.
I wouldn't close up the ventilation on the door either, that's the majority of the ventilation in your coop right now. The heat source should be placed on one side of the door or the other, so the walls can provide the draft protection you need.
80 degrees overall is really a lot warmer than I ever have my chicks at outside. We usually are around 40F to 60F when the chicks are being brooded. I leave all the ventilation open and the only solid walls are the ones immediately around the heat pad itself.
One more question: if you had to guess, how close to the ground do you think it should be for starters? Three inches? Closer? I don’t know how small chicks really are... I’ve only had direct contact with chickens.
Mine was more like yours. Thanks again. Maybe I’ll go back to sleep now.Do you have yours flat or curved like a cave/upside-down U? If flat, slant it if possible, so one side sits higher than the other - like low side is maybe 1.5"-2" off the ground, higher side is maybe 3". If it's curved then maybe around 3" at the center, and the sides will provide warmth. I've seen curved ones set on a slant too.
I do mine a bit different than most, I have it in a U shape so the center sits low and sides are high (I'm trying to approximate a hen's belly). Then I add in extra shavings so it's only about a 1" clearance in the center. If they want to be really warm they crawl down under the middle, otherwise they sort of press against a side. But admittedly this is not a efficient set up as it doesn't have capacity for many chicks.
That is what I do too. My heating pad is "wrapped" in a large piece of 16 ga. Hardware cloth. (I use a pillow case around it and rubber band the end so they can't get trapped in the case.) I mold it to the shape I want for the first week to week and a half. After that I attach it to a bakers rack (with safety pins) so they don't crush each other climbing on top. With 15 chicks you will probably want to make sure they can exit from the sides and the ends so that no one is trapped. So you may need a rack to start.Do you have yours flat or curved like a cave/upside-down U? If flat, slant it if possible, so one side sits higher than the other - like low side is maybe 1.5"-2" off the ground, higher side is maybe 3". If it's curved then maybe around 3" at the center, and the sides will provide warmth. I've seen curved ones set on a slant too.
I do mine a bit different than most, I have it in a U shape so the center sits low and sides are high (I'm trying to approximate a hen's belly). Then I add in extra shavings so it's only about a 1" clearance in the center. If they want to be really warm they crawl down under the middle, otherwise they sort of press against a side. But admittedly this is not a efficient set up as it doesn't have capacity for many chicks.
I was a complete nervous wreck too but it worked out just great. I had mine tilted about an inch off the ground at the low end (that was lower than needed I think) and initially 2" up at the high end.Thanks for explaining. I will set it up again tomorrow. I’m very nervous with these new chicks. But I’ll trust the process, especially with so many positive reviews.