Need a guinea pig expert~ICKY~PICTURES~cyst? abcese?

Ok as I said I have had 129 guinea pigs. Also I don't know what you mean by "bumble foot". I did have a peruvian pig that had a leg and foot swell up. That is the one I called Cornell University about. They wanted me to bring him there. Of course I couldn't and then that was before I had a computer. Now they charge over the internet $45 and hour for advice.
If you are keeping the wound clean and watching for drainage. Putting warm compresses on it. I don't know what else you can do. You could rinse the wound in a solution with perocide.
if the pig is eating and drinking that is good. Having it on papertowels lets you monitor feces and urine out put.
As for Shaggy the peruvian I put hot to warm compresses on his leg and foot. His leg and foot did get better but it wasn't over night.
There are vitamins you can get to put in its drinking water, or perhaps some pedialite instead of water.
Again if he's eating and drinking that is good. Again if the wound is red or hot that's a sign of infection. You did not state whether or not you trimmed its fur around the wound.
 
Quote:
sice I had never even held a piggy till this pig...thi is the info I got onlinePododermatitis (Bumblefoot) in Guinea Pigs
Ulcerative pododermatitis, also known as bumblefoot, is an extremely painful infection of the footpad. The footpad is swollen and may be crusted and/or bleeding. In severe cases, the cavy may be reluctant to move, depressed, and anorexic. If the bone becomes infected, the leg may need to be surgically removed. NOTES

Left untreated, pododermatitis can result in death.
Photo courtesy of Teresa Murphy

Cause: Pododermatitis is often attributed to abrasions caused by wire floors or rough bedding which allow infections (typically Staphylococcus aureus, a common environmental bacteria) to become established. Poor sanitation, wet bedding, lack of activity and obesity may be factors. Prevention focuses on avoiding these causes. NOTES

It has been suggested by one pet owner that guinea pigs with heart problems (and perhaps poorer circulation) may be prone to pododermatitis. Adequate exercise and treatment of heart problems may help these pigs.

Cavies are one of many animals that can suffer from this disease. In chickens, wet bedding is often blamed; in captive raptors, lack of activity and standing on a perch; rats and rabbits can also develop bumblefoot.

Treatment: Pododermatitis can be difficult to cure. The advice and experience of several pet owners appears on this page in hopes that one treatment will work for you. Examine your pet regularly to catch problems early. A vet can aid diagnosis and treatment.

Josephine recommends culturing the bacteria to ensure the most effective antibiotic is used. An X-ray can reveal bone involvement and help in determining prognosis. She notes Baytril is the most effective and safe antibiotic for penetrating the bone.

Treatment is often lengthy and some pigs will need to be on baytril for at least a month (10mgs/kg/day). Josephine will soak with a diluted solution of chlorhexidine, drying the foot and applying BNP twice daily, continuing the soaks until the ulcerations are gone, but continuing the ointment to help moisturize and supply topical antibiotics. She wraps the feet when they are ulcerated but discontinues once they are healed to the point of no scabs/open sores. She suggests bedding on towels and unabrasive bedding, changing the bedding daily when the pigs are out of their bandages. (additional post on bumblefoot)

Chii recommends an anti-septic lotion that contains 2% chlorhexidine gluconate called ResiChlor.

Zoe's treatment for a cavy with severe bumblefoot (swollen to the size of a grape with an open sore) is:
Oral antibiotics until it clears up.
Soaking foot frequently in a chlorhexidine solution.
Covering with NEW SKIN Wound & Blister Dressing (ointments cannot be used with this dressing).

After soaking, she lets the foot dry while holding her so it stays clean, then cuts a patch of the dressing to cover the sore. It adheres well, lets the wound drain and it doesn't hurt when removed.

Note: the author has found chlorhexidine soaks to be very drying. Alternating dilute chlorhexidine soaks with dilute Betadine soaks may be easier on your guinea pig's feet. Some people use a product like Preparation H after the foot is dry.

V.C.G. Richardson described a reportedly successful treatment -- injecting antibiotics directly into the affected foot pad (0.2ml [20 mg] lincomycin daily for 5-7 days), an approach which may be useful for a pig with poor circulation.

Cement antibiotic beads have been embedded in the afflicted tissue in raptors. This technique puts the antibiotic where it is needed rather than relying on distribution of the antibiotic through the blood supply when circulation may be poor. In addition, drugs not normally used due to their potentially toxic side effects but effective against the identified bacteria, may reportedly be safely administered in this local form.

Jan McArthur, R.V.T describes in detail how her rats bumblefoot was treated with antibiotics, chlorhexidine rinses twice daily, Blu-Kote once daily, soft towels as bedding and daily cage disinfection.

Pinta describes her treatment of bumblefoot. She is observant of her pigs and may be catching them in the earlier stages before the infection is full blown and much more difficult to treat:

"If the foot is ulcerated, use a pressure bandage that encloses the entire foot. This is important. If the claws are hanging out, it doesn't work. It takes about 2 weeks for total healing with 3 or 4 (depending how bad the ulcer is) bandage changes. We have only done this on ulcerated feet. Non ulcerated bumblefoot cases we ignore. We have noted that bumblefoot comes with inaction. Once a pig starts getting active (after a long illness) the bumblefoot tends to go away...
"The second the foot is totally healed. we put on a Band-aid Corn Relief cushion ( not corn removers). Do not put them on an ulcerated foot, they won't stay on. The foot has to be totally clean, dry, healed and trimmed of excess hair or they won't stay on. Follow the instructions that come with them. These include telling you to press them into place with the heat of your hand for 60 seconds. This makes the adhesive bond to the skin. The pads are waterproof and breathable and will gently fall off on their own accord 5 to 10, days later. Band-aid Corn Relief cushions for feet - regular - with Compeed moisture seal technology.
"These pads are excellent for any pressure point problems on the foot pad. One of our pigs lost 2 toes on his hind foot. He started to develop a sore spot on his pad due to the new pressure point. He developed an ulcerated foot within 5 days. After the pressure bandage treatment and 6 weeks of wearing these cushions, he developed a proper new callous and no longer needs the cushions."

In rabbits, Harkness and Wagner recommend cleaning the foot, trimming the nails and applying a topical antiseptic or protective cover. They note, " Frequently, treatment is prolonged and complicated by secondary bacterial infection." They discuss several methods of treatment, such as bandages or a light protective dressing combined with an antibiotic ointment, systemic antibiotics and application a soothing ointment.

Be sure to read also an article by Dr. Nakamura on pododermatitis in guinea pigs.

Regarding severity of pododermatitis:
Dorcas O. Schaeffer, DVM notes that "Infection can extend deep into the tissues of the feet, traveling up tendons and into bone, resulting in osteomyelitis."

V.C.G. Richardson claims it may also progress to amyloidosis of the liver, spleen, kidneys and adrenal glands.

Ralph M. Bunte, DVM notes that, "Amyloidosis has been temporally associated with advanced cases. Isolated cases of pneumonia, mastitis and conjunctivitis have been seen."

Regarding causes of pododermatitis:
Harkness and Wagner suggest using a clean soft bedding, providing adequate nutrition and exercise and avoiding obesity. They conjecture that a warm, moist environment may result in thinner fur and a less dense footpad.

Dorcas O. Schaeffer, DVM recommends, "Prevent pododermatitis by keeping the environment clean and dry, housing guinea pigs on soft, nonabrasive bedding, and avoiding obesity."

full credit going to

Pododermatitis (Bumblefoot) in Guinea Pigs
Ulcerative pododermatitis, also known as bumblefoot, is an extremely painful infection of the footpad. The footpad is swollen and may be crusted and/or bleeding. In severe cases, the cavy may be reluctant to move, depressed, and anorexic. If the bone becomes infected, the leg may need to be surgically removed. NOTES

Left untreated, pododermatitis can result in death.
Photo courtesy of Teresa Murphy

Cause: Pododermatitis is often attributed to abrasions caused by wire floors or rough bedding which allow infections (typically Staphylococcus aureus, a common environmental bacteria) to become established. Poor sanitation, wet bedding, lack of activity and obesity may be factors. Prevention focuses on avoiding these causes. NOTES

It has been suggested by one pet owner that guinea pigs with heart problems (and perhaps poorer circulation) may be prone to pododermatitis. Adequate exercise and treatment of heart problems may help these pigs.

Cavies are one of many animals that can suffer from this disease. In chickens, wet bedding is often blamed; in captive raptors, lack of activity and standing on a perch; rats and rabbits can also develop bumblefoot.

Treatment: Pododermatitis can be difficult to cure. The advice and experience of several pet owners appears on this page in hopes that one treatment will work for you. Examine your pet regularly to catch problems early. A vet can aid diagnosis and treatment.

Josephine recommends culturing the bacteria to ensure the most effective antibiotic is used. An X-ray can reveal bone involvement and help in determining prognosis. She notes Baytril is the most effective and safe antibiotic for penetrating the bone.

Treatment is often lengthy and some pigs will need to be on baytril for at least a month (10mgs/kg/day). Josephine will soak with a diluted solution of chlorhexidine, drying the foot and applying BNP twice daily, continuing the soaks until the ulcerations are gone, but continuing the ointment to help moisturize and supply topical antibiotics. She wraps the feet when they are ulcerated but discontinues once they are healed to the point of no scabs/open sores. She suggests bedding on towels and unabrasive bedding, changing the bedding daily when the pigs are out of their bandages. (additional post on bumblefoot)

Chii recommends an anti-septic lotion that contains 2% chlorhexidine gluconate called ResiChlor.

Zoe's treatment for a cavy with severe bumblefoot (swollen to the size of a grape with an open sore) is:
Oral antibiotics until it clears up.
Soaking foot frequently in a chlorhexidine solution.
Covering with NEW SKIN Wound & Blister Dressing (ointments cannot be used with this dressing).

After soaking, she lets the foot dry while holding her so it stays clean, then cuts a patch of the dressing to cover the sore. It adheres well, lets the wound drain and it doesn't hurt when removed.

Note: the author has found chlorhexidine soaks to be very drying. Alternating dilute chlorhexidine soaks with dilute Betadine soaks may be easier on your guinea pig's feet. Some people use a product like Preparation H after the foot is dry.

V.C.G. Richardson described a reportedly successful treatment -- injecting antibiotics directly into the affected foot pad (0.2ml [20 mg] lincomycin daily for 5-7 days), an approach which may be useful for a pig with poor circulation.

Cement antibiotic beads have been embedded in the afflicted tissue in raptors. This technique puts the antibiotic where it is needed rather than relying on distribution of the antibiotic through the blood supply when circulation may be poor. In addition, drugs not normally used due to their potentially toxic side effects but effective against the identified bacteria, may reportedly be safely administered in this local form.

Jan McArthur, R.V.T describes in detail how her rats bumblefoot was treated with antibiotics, chlorhexidine rinses twice daily, Blu-Kote once daily, soft towels as bedding and daily cage disinfection.

Pinta describes her treatment of bumblefoot. She is observant of her pigs and may be catching them in the earlier stages before the infection is full blown and much more difficult to treat:

"If the foot is ulcerated, use a pressure bandage that encloses the entire foot. This is important. If the claws are hanging out, it doesn't work. It takes about 2 weeks for total healing with 3 or 4 (depending how bad the ulcer is) bandage changes. We have only done this on ulcerated feet. Non ulcerated bumblefoot cases we ignore. We have noted that bumblefoot comes with inaction. Once a pig starts getting active (after a long illness) the bumblefoot tends to go away...
"The second the foot is totally healed. we put on a Band-aid Corn Relief cushion ( not corn removers). Do not put them on an ulcerated foot, they won't stay on. The foot has to be totally clean, dry, healed and trimmed of excess hair or they won't stay on. Follow the instructions that come with them. These include telling you to press them into place with the heat of your hand for 60 seconds. This makes the adhesive bond to the skin. The pads are waterproof and breathable and will gently fall off on their own accord 5 to 10, days later. Band-aid Corn Relief cushions for feet - regular - with Compeed moisture seal technology.
"These pads are excellent for any pressure point problems on the foot pad. One of our pigs lost 2 toes on his hind foot. He started to develop a sore spot on his pad due to the new pressure point. He developed an ulcerated foot within 5 days. After the pressure bandage treatment and 6 weeks of wearing these cushions, he developed a proper new callous and no longer needs the cushions."

In rabbits, Harkness and Wagner recommend cleaning the foot, trimming the nails and applying a topical antiseptic or protective cover. They note, " Frequently, treatment is prolonged and complicated by secondary bacterial infection." They discuss several methods of treatment, such as bandages or a light protective dressing combined with an antibiotic ointment, systemic antibiotics and application a soothing ointment.

Be sure to read also an article by Dr. Nakamura on pododermatitis in guinea pigs.

Regarding severity of pododermatitis:
Dorcas O. Schaeffer, DVM notes that "Infection can extend deep into the tissues of the feet, traveling up tendons and into bone, resulting in osteomyelitis."

V.C.G. Richardson claims it may also progress to amyloidosis of the liver, spleen, kidneys and adrenal glands.

Ralph M. Bunte, DVM notes that, "Amyloidosis has been temporally associated with advanced cases. Isolated cases of pneumonia, mastitis and conjunctivitis have been seen."

Regarding causes of pododermatitis:
Harkness and Wagner suggest using a clean soft bedding, providing adequate nutrition and exercise and avoiding obesity. They conjecture that a warm, moist environment may result in thinner fur and a less dense footpad.

Dorcas O. Schaeffer, DVM recommends, "Prevent pododermatitis by keeping the environment clean and dry, housing guinea pigs on soft, nonabrasive bedding, and avoiding obesity."

All I know is the little piggy has a healed wound on its foot...that is swollen underneith...and if you touch the front paws...he pulls away.....aside from that the little guy LOVES me...in just a week...he kneeds on me like a kitten does, he talks to me and doesnt normally talk to anyone....he is so sweet...and needs help that I wish I could give him.

can piggys have asprin? or anything for pain that I can give him without a vet???? the family can not or will not get him to a vet.....what can I do??? I cant take him in.....no in this condition....I have baby chickens that need me all the time, and cats, and fish, and kids (well my kid and the neighborhood kids).....oh GAWD I am my mom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I WILL do all I can to help this little guy...and if need be...I will put him down if HIS family askes me to...but I want to try anything till then.

THANKS!!!!!


~Tiff~

ps..............I see piggy's or bunnys in my future
 
Just sa the little guy...the skin flap has dried up and fallen off like I hoped for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

He looks better...but still not eating as much as possible........he used to eat TONS (says his momma)

His feet are still bad...I am going down to neosporin him again in about an hour............and I told his mamma to go get epsom salts for his feet....(Is this a good idea?)

please keep advising us............

you all are the best!!!!!

Thanks alot................fyi my mom gave me a few things I wrote in grade school.............4th and 5th grade BOTH "what I want to do when I grow up" ...............for years it was BE A VET (I had forgotten) and now in the past 2 weeks I have had over 10 people tell me to DO IT..............including a vet................ok, I am a trained medical administrator......but I dont feel compasion for people like I do for animals.................maybe once I get my student loans paid off I will be able to go after my REAL DREAM!!!!!



Animal love is sometimes stronger then person to person love.


~Tiff~
 
In my experience with our VERY large herd of guinea pigs over the past 6 years, I have had a couple of bumble foot cases. Most times they are a symptom of their system being affected by something. Like the last one was after she littered out a large litter. One of her front feet was swollen for about a week. We ran her on antibiotics and soaked her foot twice a day in epson salts warm bath. Then we made sure to put neosporin on her foot pads. In the beginning it wasn't obvious if she had any sores, but like others we have had in the past years a sore did develop. Be sure NOT to pick the sore, but allow the soaking and medication to naturally wear it off. Even with all the scientific information, bumble foot is still kind of a mystery to pig owners who have experienced it. There is not necessarily one exact reason it is brought on.

Make sure piggie can get to his/her water bottle and food bowl. Most times they cannot walk very well and frankly seem not to (can't blame them) so keeping water and food close helps. Also give a lot of hay to help them nibble on something.

Honestly I think the main reason you posted for help is already healing itself - probably was as abscesses can heal with out human assistance. However, this pig will still need daily care and watch to help it recover from bumble foot.
 

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