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Why a plywood, paper, drip edge, shingle roof??? They are more expensive, don't last as long, harder to repair, and less likely to be installed correctly by a homeowner in the first place - and more labor intensive besides. Aesthetics? (that's a valid reason, just curious)
Yeah, It may be better to do metal roofing. Then I don't have to pay for shingles, trim, and drip edge
 
Too much work. Forget the birds' beak, use 2x4x10s cut in half, at minimum for a few inches of overhang, or 2x4x12s cut in half for a bit over 1' in overhang (I'd go that route). and use hurricane ties where it sits on the tops of the walls. That will give you almost 3 1/2" of vertical height for free air flow, and a nearly 2' wide opening - a little more than 1/2 sq ft free ventilation between each rafter pair, on each side. That's 4 sq ft of the desired ventilation at the roof lvel in your 8x8 building. A combination of windows and/or gable vents will have to do the rest. Or frame it in 2x6s for .85 sq ft per opening and you basically have all the ventilation you desire.

If you do the metal roof, as I previously suggested, 5/4 x 4 purlins on top of your 2x4 rafters splits the difference - you'd have about 6 sq ft of venting above the tops of the walls. That's an excellent start.
what are purlins? Brand of Tin metal? type of metal?

On that topic, what type of metal should I do for the roof? (If I don't do corrugated polycarbonate)
 
On the subject of overhangs and Seattle area weather... Idon'thavemuchoverhangonmycoop. :hmm It's honestly only a little more overhang than the shed in the pdf the OP posted, just enough to tuck soffit vents under the trim and that's about it. Wish I had more, but I get by because I planned my ventilation around the wind directions in my area (so the wall facing primary winds is almost completely solid, with just a louvered gable and floor vent).

And since I added as much extra ventilation as I could (currently a little over 3 sq ft per bird if everything's open, not including any doors) that means even if some vents need to be closed up due to freakish weather (like last week rain was blowing sideways westward, so 2 windows needed to be shut) I still have extra to compensate for it.
 
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The plans require 5 2x4s, Each 10 feet

I have almost never seen 10-foot boards in the places where we buy lumber. 8 and 12 are the norms.

Too much work. Forget the birds' beak, use 2x4x10s cut in half, at minimum for a few inches of overhang, or 2x4x12s cut in half for a bit over 1' in overhang (I'd go that route). and use hurricane ties where it sits on the tops of the walls.

Yes, this is much easier.

Easy fix to get larger overhang,,, Just buy 12 footer 2x4, not twice as many,,

As noted above, there's a good chance that 10-foot boards are unavailable anyway.

i went with corrugated polycarbonate. same look as metal but my chickens get some extra light in the coop.

This is good in some areas and horrible in others -- depending on climate.
 
OHH I just looked at the plans again. I wouldn't need to extend the rafters! I just wouldn't need to cut down the plywood as much. It also gives me more flexibility over how much overhang I want
Eh.....not really a good idea.
Sounds good and easy, but is not structurally sound.
 
There is a lot of discussion about over hangs. I sure wish my "dollhouse" coop had larger overhangs. Ah, for my next coop. :hmm There is a concert facility near my house. The ticket takers can stand under a huge over hang (4') to avoid the sun and rain while collect the parking fee. I have always looked at that shed as the start to my rebuild. I think the chickens and humans entering would love that.

Here is a picture of the kind of idea I am shooting for. This picture came from an article I just read discussing why overhangs are valuable in a shed. It seems to me, these reasons are at least as important for a coop. Note that this article does not discuss ventilation in the eves. Which I also think is a must. (IMHO)

https://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/shed-roof-overhang.html
 

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