New Chicken coop

[aart]

https://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/shed-roof-overhang.html

Excellent page...especially the illustration showing the framing.
Thanks @jreardon1918 , am saving this page link.

 

[3KillerBs]

There is a lot of discussion about over hangs. I sure wish my "dollhouse" coop had larger overhangs. Ah, for my next coop. There is a concert facility near my house. The ticket takers can stand under a huge over hang (4') to avoid the sun and rain while collect the parking fee. I have always looked at that shed as the start to my rebuild. I think the chickens and humans entering would love that.

Here is a picture of the kind of idea I am shooting for. This picture came from an article I just read discussing why overhangs are valuable in a shed. It seems to me, these reasons are at least as important for a coop. Note that this article does not discuss ventilation in the eves. Which I also think is a must. (IMHO)

https://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/shed-roof-overhang.html

When we put a new roof on the Little Monitor Coop (metal this time), I want to extend an overhang over the access door so I can get out of the rain when tending chickens.

It's lovely having my huge overhangs in the big, open-air coop. I have dry storage out there and can get eggs without getting wet.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

what are purlins? Brand of Tin metal? type of metal?

On that topic, what type of metal should I do for the roof? (If I don't do corrugated polycarbonate)

Purlins are "structural" elements, though with polycarbonate and metal roofing, they primarily provide an attachment point for the roofing, rather than rigidity to the rafters. Typically, they are laid perpendicularly on top of the rafters, and are often quite thin - 1"x4", 1x3" even - though I used 5/4"x6" for some of my own builds, since it was the same cost as 1x4s, but came pressure treated (and less chance I would miss with a screw, working from above... The goat house was pt 1x4s.

and this is the underside of my goat shed. Rafters run top to bottom, purlins run left to right.

/edit to add. Overhangs on this are quite small, only about 4" - I use gutters on each side to direct rainwater into a 275 gallon tote and a kiddie pool for the ducks. If I was to build it again, without the rainwater collection (and wasn't worried about goats walking on the roof), I would use the wave pattern steel roofing (which I do NOT recommend for new roofers - its harder to install correctly, because there are no flats) alternated with wave polycarbonate to let in a little more ambient light) and a larger overhang. I'd also build it a foot taller - but this is the right height, at the right cost, for its intended purpose - a shelter for goats, for the ducks that don't want to hang out under the orginal coop, and to provide additional roosting bars as my flock grew. Also, it was fast.

 

[aart]

rather than rigidity to the rafters.

They are pretty important for supporting the metal/plastic sheathing,
especially if you live where snow load happens.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

They are pretty important for supporting the metal/plastic sheathing,
especially if you live where snow load happens.

Sorry, yes. Not important here in Florida - which is why I used the spacing that I did. Snow loads will determine purlin spacing and rafter sizing - the panels (metal or polycarbonate) are relatively stiff length wise, due to the ridges, but have almost no stiffness in width, again due to the ridges. I was refering to the rigidity of the rafters against lateral forces, not thinking about bowing of the roof itself due to load.

I acknowledge the correction and the need for more coffee. Thanks @aart.

 

[DickMidnight]

more coffee.

always more coffee.

 

[3KillerBs]

My build thread here has a lot of photos of the rafters, purlins, and roof installation process: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/

 

[Alex S]

As noted above, there's a good chance that 10-foot boards are unavailable anyway.

My lumber yard has 10-foot boards

Sounds good and easy, but is not structurally sound.

True, that's why I decided to just buy 2x4x12s so I can get 1+ feet of overhang on the sides. Then just do a drip edge on the front and back, which gives me 1-3 inches of overhang

(Sorry for the sloppy writing. its hard to draw w/ a mouse)

 

[Krugerrand]

Make sure that your overhang is either high up or padded.

When we put a new roof on the Little Monitor Coop (metal this time), I want to extend an overhang over the access door so I can get out of the rain when tending chickens.

It's lovely having my huge overhangs in the big, open-air coop. I have dry storage out there and can get eggs without getting wet.

 

[3KillerBs]

My lumber yard has 10-foot boards

Unusual. I've rarely seen them.

Then just do a drip edge on the front and back, which gives me 1-3 inches of overhang

You're going to want more than that to shelter vents at the gable peaks. The roof-peak ventilation is the most critical because heat and ammonia both rise. Ammonia is lighter than air and the rising warm air carries the moisture away to keep the coop dry.

You can substitute a ridge vent along the length of the roof, but if you ever get snow that vent gets blocked.

Other roof-peak-level vent options include monitors and functional cupolas.

My coop here includes photos showing how to frame a monitor: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

This coop includes a functional cupola: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/southern-farmhouse-coop.75688/

Make sure that your overhang is either high up or padded.

Yes, I don't need more staples in my scalp.