Quote:
Ewwwwwww!!!! Not a rat fan here. You must be braver tha I.
Ewwwwwww!!!! Not a rat fan here. You must be braver tha I.
Norway RATS!!!
- Thread starter JeninMN
- Start date
Quote:
on the rare occasion we use poison we use pellets and mix it in with birdseed then put a small scoop in paper towel and then bundle it up like a hard candy and inset it into the holes that way. They tear into the paper liking it for bedding and find the extra special seed. plus it lets u see what holes are most active and what ones you can shove a rock in
on the rare occasion we use poison we use pellets and mix it in with birdseed then put a small scoop in paper towel and then bundle it up like a hard candy and inset it into the holes that way. They tear into the paper liking it for bedding and find the extra special seed. plus it lets u see what holes are most active and what ones you can shove a rock in
If shopping at Fleet Farm, buy a bunch of bait sticks or cubes. ( Not the pellets.) The pellets are not as affective due to the rats carrying them back to thier nests to store them. The sticks or cubes, ( I would opt for the cubes in your instance) need to be chewed before they can get them into thier tunnels for storage. The rats actually need to eat or ingest the poison to be affective.
I had this problem last fall also and the bait sticks took care of all of my problems. Just put a few into thier tunnels and they will solve your problems themselves. Plugging thier exit tunnels afterwards also makes them chew at the bait to try to get out also. Leave a few scattered around for the ones that try to be sneaky and dig new ways to get to your feed.
Rats are very sneaky at hiding their ever being there. I sure hope that this helps you.
I had this problem last fall also and the bait sticks took care of all of my problems. Just put a few into thier tunnels and they will solve your problems themselves. Plugging thier exit tunnels afterwards also makes them chew at the bait to try to get out also. Leave a few scattered around for the ones that try to be sneaky and dig new ways to get to your feed.
Rats are very sneaky at hiding their ever being there. I sure hope that this helps you.
Them carrying them back ans stock piling them is the point ... you get the whole nest that way.
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LOL! Paintball gun. Best solution I've read yet! I can just imagine the look on my neighbors' faces if I used that method and created a "work of abstract art" out of my barn.
LOL! Paintball gun. Best solution I've read yet! I can just imagine the look on my neighbors' faces if I used that method and created a "work of abstract art" out of my barn.
Quote:
The rats in my barn won't touch the cubes or sticks. They only take pellets. But at least they eat them eventually. I just don't know why they won't eat chunk bait.
The rats in my barn won't touch the cubes or sticks. They only take pellets. But at least they eat them eventually. I just don't know why they won't eat chunk bait.
because they nibble it and think eeww this is gross and its hurting my tummy. The other rats sense its distress and also avoid it
- May 13, 2008
- 10,684
- 186
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Take a look here I posted it not to long ago, I used these and now have no problems at all. this is a great alternitive to other methods and very safe for your chickens, I have over 70 birds and as you can imagine lots of feed and feeders.
AL
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=138049
AL
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=138049
I have used the bait blocks with great success on rats. I just break them into pieces and mix with a little seed and shove them down the holes with a stick. In places where I know the dogs won't get to it I place the D-Con Rat and Mouse poison mixed with seed and place a dish of cola by it. This has also proved successful.
And I agree on the Vector plastic traps. I put some PB on the lid and set them around the house bird cages. So far I have averaged at least one mouse a day in each of the traps.
One of the things I have learned to do is to raise the bottom of my coops at least 12" or more off the ground. That way my MinPins can get underneath them and get any vermin that tries to set up housekeeping under the coops.
And I agree on the Vector plastic traps. I put some PB on the lid and set them around the house bird cages. So far I have averaged at least one mouse a day in each of the traps.
One of the things I have learned to do is to raise the bottom of my coops at least 12" or more off the ground. That way my MinPins can get underneath them and get any vermin that tries to set up housekeeping under the coops.
I have had the same problem with Norway rats. After unsuccessfully dealing with exterminators and the various potions that the feed store sold me, I went online.
I found the best advice at Mississippi State Extension. Here is the short form of what I did. It wasn't quick, but it did the job and we are rat free for over 2 years now.
First thing to remember, though is you are dealing with poison. It can kill your kids/dog/chickens/cat if they eat it. Some of the ones recommended will kill a dog/hawk/cat if they eat a rat that has eaten the poison. Keep this in mind and treat it with respect and caution. I found a cage at a yard sale that bar spacings to keep the cats/dog etc out but let the rats in. That is what I used to put the poison in. I also did twice daily patrols of my yard to pick up dead rats (I killed over 150 over my 6 month campain, and those were just the ones I found)
The most valuable piece of advice I got was to prebait. Where ever you are going to put the poison, start by putting just plain chicken feed. Do this for 2-3 weeks. NO poison. Rats test all new food sources by sending the weak ones in to eat. If they die, the others don't follow, so if you just start poisoning you will get a few, but not many. After 2-3 weeks I was going through about 25# of chicken food A NIGHT, which told me everyone was eating (and I had a crapload of rats)
Then I added a quick kill poison to the prebait, I used Quintox, but you could also use rampage. This poison is a eat once kill that night kind of poison. It is so fast the rats literally don't know what hit them. Use it for a week or until you stop noticing dead rats everywhere.
Next go back to prebaiting for a couple of weeks, the add poison to the prebait. This time used a warfarin type like Tomcat or Jaguar. This kills anyone that was resistant to the first poison or just didn't eat it because they didn't like the taste/smell whatever.
Now you have probably killed most of them and you can begin using bait blocks like Hawk and traps to clean up the stragglers or the new ones that pop in from the neighbors.
The complete directions are at the MS state website somewhere, what I wrote is what I did and it worked for me. It might not work for you. Just remember follow all the cautions on the labels, you don't want to poison "non target species".
Good Luck!
I found the best advice at Mississippi State Extension. Here is the short form of what I did. It wasn't quick, but it did the job and we are rat free for over 2 years now.
First thing to remember, though is you are dealing with poison. It can kill your kids/dog/chickens/cat if they eat it. Some of the ones recommended will kill a dog/hawk/cat if they eat a rat that has eaten the poison. Keep this in mind and treat it with respect and caution. I found a cage at a yard sale that bar spacings to keep the cats/dog etc out but let the rats in. That is what I used to put the poison in. I also did twice daily patrols of my yard to pick up dead rats (I killed over 150 over my 6 month campain, and those were just the ones I found)
The most valuable piece of advice I got was to prebait. Where ever you are going to put the poison, start by putting just plain chicken feed. Do this for 2-3 weeks. NO poison. Rats test all new food sources by sending the weak ones in to eat. If they die, the others don't follow, so if you just start poisoning you will get a few, but not many. After 2-3 weeks I was going through about 25# of chicken food A NIGHT, which told me everyone was eating (and I had a crapload of rats)
Then I added a quick kill poison to the prebait, I used Quintox, but you could also use rampage. This poison is a eat once kill that night kind of poison. It is so fast the rats literally don't know what hit them. Use it for a week or until you stop noticing dead rats everywhere.
Next go back to prebaiting for a couple of weeks, the add poison to the prebait. This time used a warfarin type like Tomcat or Jaguar. This kills anyone that was resistant to the first poison or just didn't eat it because they didn't like the taste/smell whatever.
Now you have probably killed most of them and you can begin using bait blocks like Hawk and traps to clean up the stragglers or the new ones that pop in from the neighbors.
The complete directions are at the MS state website somewhere, what I wrote is what I did and it worked for me. It might not work for you. Just remember follow all the cautions on the labels, you don't want to poison "non target species".
Good Luck!
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