***OKIES in the BYC III ***

I had hen die about 3 weeks ago who seemed healthy, she was fine that morning and the afternoon was dead. I checked her out and her crop seemed full so I thought maybe she ate something and got impacted. Tonight another dead hen who was fine acting this morning. Also no one has laid eggs in 2 weeks or so at all. I thought maybe the heat but my nephews are laying and others I know of are still laying. No egg shells laying around like the chickens are eating them and I have 2 separate pens, one that has silkies that I'm not getting eggs from either. Any Ideas?? I don't want to loose any more. I wormed with Pyrantel about a month ago a pea size drop per bird, should I try another kind?

I've been throwing them veggies from my garden, could it be that?


A few weeks ago, I had a similar sudden, unexpected death. Second or third, in a month. Someone here suggested calling the Oklahoma Dept. Of Agriculture. After the second, I did (this must be done, right after finding the dead bird, bag it, and put it on ice, or in an available freezer) this, and they sent a fellow out, in a couple of hours. This was the Thursday of July 4 weekend, so, it took a bit of time, to get the necropsy report back. Here is a copy of what I got back from them:

We do not have final results on your case. However, the preliminary results received late Friday, indicate Mycoplasma. They are still running more tests, so there may be more information to follow.

If you are still having birds die and the problem seems to be getting worse, you can begin treating them now for Mycoplasma, and then when we receive final results, we can determine if there are any other problems, and whether there may be any other antibiotics suggested to be better.

One effective antibiotic, that is found at most local feed stores, is Tylan50. It states on the label, it’s an injectable antibiotic. The easiest way to administer this is to put the antibiotic in the water. You will want to put just enough water in with the antibiotic that you know they have gotten the dose. Then once all the water is gone, replenish with fresh water as needed. Recommended dosage is 1-3 CC per 10 LBS of birds. If you are currently not having lots of other birds die, then the lower dosage would be fine. However, if you are still seeing a high death rate, then you would want to hit them with the highest dosage possible and for a minimum of 10-14 days. After 14 days of treatment, if you see some birds improve, but it seems to be reoccurring, or not improving, you may want to consider getting rid of those birds in order to protect the remaining flock. Some birds may be considered chronic, and just not able to recover.

I had one duckling die, after this, but there was strong indication of heat, being that cause, and that happened late on a Friday, where the state could not come out, in time to do a proper necropsy. Otherwise, the single treatment of the Tylan 50, seemed to do the job, quite well. I'm not saying that this was the issue with your birds, but, you could call the state AG department, and try to get some help. I found them to be very helpful.
 
Oh, and on egg production, I have heard that extreme heat index, can lower egg production. As for my flock, egg production was at it's peak, the hottest days we had. That Sunday, where the heat index was nearly 120, I got 13 eggs, out of 14 known layers (I have 2, or 3, that I'm not sure if they are laying, yet, at all). But, heat, or not, I've been getting a consistent 10-11 egg a a day AVERAGE. I have an occasional slow day, where I'll get 8 or 9 eggs, and days where I get 13. Never more than 13, never less than 8. But, 13 out of 14 days, I get 10+ eggs. Not bad, by my formerly "city slicker" standards.
 
A few weeks ago, I had a similar sudden, unexpected death. Second or third, in a month. Someone here suggested calling the Oklahoma Dept. Of Agriculture. After the second, I did (this must be done, right after finding the dead bird, bag it, and put it on ice, or in an available freezer) this, and they sent a fellow out, in a couple of hours. This was the Thursday of July 4 weekend, so, it took a bit of time, to get the necropsy report back. Here is a copy of what I got back from them:
I had one duckling die, after this, but there was strong indication of heat, being that cause, and that happened late on a Friday, where the state could not come out, in time to do a proper necropsy. Otherwise, the single treatment of the Tylan 50, seemed to do the job, quite well. I'm not saying that this was the issue with your birds, but, you could call the state AG department, and try to get some help. I found them to be very helpful.

FYI my local Atwoods will no longer carry Tylan 50. The employee I spoke with claimed local druggies are using it to create some kind of drug (I don't know which one) and they will not even order it for people anymore. I switched to Tylan 200 which I ordered from KV Pet Supply online, it is 4x the strength so you have to adjust the dosage but a big bottle lasts a very long time.
 
how would an antibiotic be usable? crazy druggies, thanks for the info


all sorts of factors can affect egg laying, a bad thunderstorm, heat, worms, mites- lots of things - i found feeding higher protein can help also


news on the grandson- you'll love this one, he has been talking to the 'neighborhood mom', apparently these kids he has been hanging with had convinced him that if he went home his mom would call the police and send him to jail, he has wanted to come home but was afraid to... argggggg
 
FYI my local Atwoods will no longer carry Tylan 50.  The employee I spoke with claimed local druggies are using it to create some kind of drug (I don't know which one) and they will not even order it for people anymore.  I switched to Tylan 200 which I ordered from KV Pet Supply online, it is 4x the strength so you have to adjust the dosage but a big bottle lasts a very long time.


I didn't find anything yet on street use, but while skimming for it I did find an interesting article on the FDA's December determination on the use of antibiotics in livestock for the increase of production weight. Has anybody else seen that? I'm interested in your take on it, because I'm having a hard time seeing a negative side to removing production weight as an on-label use.

Oh, forgot the link. I'm sure there may be better, but this is the first one Ifound that was fairly in-depth.

http://newsroom.unl.edu/announce/beef/2919/16316
 
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FYI my local Atwoods will no longer carry Tylan 50.  The employee I spoke with claimed local druggies are using it to create some kind of drug (I don't know which one) and they will not even order it for people anymore.  I switched to Tylan 200 which I ordered from KV Pet Supply online, it is 4x the strength so you have to adjust the dosage but a big bottle lasts a very long time.


That explains a little. Atwood's in Tahlequah, was where I got this one, and I had a difficult time finding it. They told me they weren't going to carry it, any longer. I do think it's still available from online sources. But, as little as was needed, I think I'm going to be good on supply, for a good, long, while.

And, I have no idea, how they could use it. But, chemical engineers, are using all kinds of seemingly innocuous chemicals, to make lots of dangerous stuff. I wouldn't doubt that they found an ingredient in it, that can be extracted, and used towards the manufacture of something that gets someone high.
Sad, truly sad.
 
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how would an antibiotic be usable? crazy druggies, thanks for the info


all sorts of factors can affect egg laying, a bad thunderstorm, heat, worms, mites- lots of things - i found feeding higher protein can help also


news on the grandson- you'll love this one, he has been talking to the 'neighborhood mom', apparently these kids he has been hanging with had convinced him that if he went home his mom would call the police and send him to jail, he has wanted to come home but was afraid to... argggggg


I hadn't thought about the higher protein. But, that makes a great deal of sense. For a while now, my girls have been getting ADM 20% EggMaker, until I found that it was the "balancer" version, I was getting, from my local feed store, here in Vian, and needed to add the regular feed to it, along with grit. My flock, gets plenty of grit, from the ground where they free range, as there is plenty of tiny gravel, and I put out lots of oyster shell. But, since the balancer is not a complete food, I switched to the All Way, 20% Starting*Growing*Laying, crumbles. Egg production, has been VERY consistent, since switching to the 20% feed. That may be why there hasn't been an issue with the heat, affecting egg laying?

Oh, and on your grandson. I'm sure happy to hear that it is getting straight. It's sad, that kids believe all the wrong people, in this world, and refuse to believe those whose love, is unconditional. I'm happy for you.
 
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Quote: we had ours on 16%, hubby picked up feed the next time and it was 20% and what a difference! I do ferment it, i think its the protein that does it- no grit for mine, they free range, but they do get oyster shell also, and all sorts of bugs and stuff out there

yeah, my grandson is 13, very level headed but these older boys were sure playing with his brain!
 
we had ours on 16%, hubby picked up feed the next time and it was 20% and what a difference! I do ferment it, i think its the protein that does it- no grit for mine, they free range, but they do get oyster shell also, and all sorts of bugs and stuff out there

yeah, my grandson is 13, very level headed but these older boys were sure playing with his brain!

I've been told that you should only feed 20% for a few weeks at a time, like during molt or to kick them into gear in the spring. It "burns them out" faster to feed it year round. Think of it as using up all their eggs in a shorter period of time I guess?
 
we had ours on 16%, hubby picked up feed the next time and it was 20% and what a difference! I do ferment it, i think its the protein that does it- no grit for mine, they free range, but they do get oyster shell also, and all sorts of bugs and stuff out there

yeah, my grandson is 13, very level headed but these older boys were sure playing with his brain!


Robin,
Mine too, free range by day. Lord, it's a job, some days, getting some of them to coop. Mrs. Brown (brown leghorn hen), Barney Fife (Barnevelder hen), Leah (Basque hen), Blanca (White Swedish flower hen), along with my RIR Roo (I haven't figured out a good name for him, yet. Just calling him Red Roo, for now), each have their days, when they are a pain in the neck, to coop. I'm figuring out methods to get them in, but they're figuring out ways, to stay out.

I haven't yet tried fermenting it. What all is involved with that process?

I WAS feeding them a little in the morning, just outside the door of the coop, and a little at night, well inside the coop. But found that they just weren't very motivated to come in, after a day of foraging, and dusting, and playing. So, now, I let them forage, plus they get a bit of the game bird food, that I put out for the young guineas and turkeys, then give them a large helping, in the back of the coop, when I want them put away. That helps, but the stubborn ones I mentioned, can always be a pain, if they feel like it.
 

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