***OKIES in the BYC III ***

[Ksane]

Quote:
I'm da*n sure not an expert, I just have dying birds

But the L & S in "L-S 50" stands for lincomycin-spectinomycin-so you're right-that's what they use and that's what mine are on now. It's powder I'm mixing in the water. The other Cochin babies (14 wks now) still look and act so good and the Silkies (16 wks) are all acting good. My little Cochin pullet I've had to the vet 3 times probably won't make it another 12 hrs, same with my daughter's pet cockeral. I've wracked my brain trying to figure out the best way to deal with this. I've got big round pans with bleach and water that I step in before I go into each chicken's area. The Cochin babies are completely isolated in their pen but they always have been. I'm raking up every speck of poop in their pen all the time and am going to continually spray down with Oxine in there, their coop, change shavings in their coop every day if I have to. He said to be prepared because I was going to lose more. But I'm hoping he's wrong.
What makes me just sick is the Cochin pen really is isolated and the most protected one. *I* brought this crap into their pen on my shoes. That's hard to swallow.

I can get a couple ccs of the injectable if you'd like to try that, it's %100. Let me know if you'd like some

You're awesome to offer and I appreciate it very much. But I went ahead and had to buy a whole bottle of the L-S 50 so I've got enough now. I'm going to have him put down my little Cochin pullet when we go in today at 3:00. She's in bad shape and won't eat or drink or move now. I can't just leave her like that until she dies and I certainly can't kill her myself. At least I can be there when he euthanizes her.
If anyone is concerned about e. coli there's a great article at
http://www.vetafarm.com/pages/E.coli-%2d-myths-and-misunderstanding-.html
Adults aren't really affected, it's the younger ones for the most part-because the bacteria is literally everywhere and there's so many different strains. I wasn't going to hatch any more chicks or buy any more babies anyway, I sure want to keep the ones I've already raised through this long hot summer though. So at least my adults should be fine. So bleach your shoes and hands and change clothes before you mess with your chickens after you've been to a chicken show, swap or auction.

 

[sjarvis00]

Quote:
I'm da*n sure not an expert, I just have dying birds

But the L & S in "L-S 50" stands for lincomycin-spectinomycin-so you're right-that's what they use and that's what mine are on now. It's powder I'm mixing in the water. The other Cochin babies (14 wks now) still look and act so good and the Silkies (16 wks) are all acting good. My little Cochin pullet I've had to the vet 3 times probably won't make it another 12 hrs, same with my daughter's pet cockeral. I've wracked my brain trying to figure out the best way to deal with this. I've got big round pans with bleach and water that I step in before I go into each chicken's area. The Cochin babies are completely isolated in their pen but they always have been. I'm raking up every speck of poop in their pen all the time and am going to continually spray down with Oxine in there, their coop, change shavings in their coop every day if I have to. He said to be prepared because I was going to lose more. But I'm hoping he's wrong.
What makes me just sick is the Cochin pen really is isolated and the most protected one. *I* brought this crap into their pen on my shoes. That's hard to swallow.

Mitzi,
Dom't blame yourself. if they are outside they are exposed. There really is very very little a person can do to prevent exposure, and unfortunately without exposure they will never develop an imunity and ability to cope with the E.coli, Cocci, or other things present in the environment.
there are several starins of Cocci, and e.coli among other things. Each individual location where a bird grows up will be slightly different, and this is why mixing flocks can be a hazardous for some of teh birds even adults or juveniles, although the younger the bird the more suseptable they are. Unfortunately when the birds are protected and exposure is severly limited until an older age it only prolongs the period of time they are suseptable.
All wild birds, mice, and other animals carry the common bacteria as well as bugs, worms, beetles (among the worste). This is why it is possible to reduce the problem for a short time but never eradicate the threat.
Fortunately we are coming up on a dormant bug period which is good, flies transmit a great deal of bacteria that will cause many problems but mostly respiratory and e.coli. unfortunately the cool weather brings in more mice and the like which will carry even more pathogens and parasites.
Losses of young birds is expected to some degree and based on what they are exposed to and what the breeder birds had been exposed to over many generations will help determine the strength of the imune system. long term exposure is a good thing as the animals with teh better ability to cope with the infection will thrive and continue to reproduce.

if you firmly believe that the adult birds you have are the cuase, mix some oxine and water as a dip, and dip the birds. I would use a clean water rinse first to get any dust dirt and debrise off of the bird, teh oxine mixture will sterilize the exterior of the bird, add some oxine to teh drinking water and sterilize them internally then give them all some un-flavored yogurt or you can get Pro-biotics at the feed stores. Keep in mind this isn't fool proof with the wild birds, and mice etc. they will still be exposed at some point.

 

[sjarvis00]

Quote:
I can get a couple ccs of the injectable if you'd like to try that, it's %100. Let me know if you'd like some

You're awesome to offer and I appreciate it very much. But I went ahead and had to buy a whole bottle of the L-S 50 so I've got enough now. I'm going to have him put down my little Cochin pullet when we go in today at 3:00. She's in bad shape and won't eat or drink or move now. I can't just leave her like that until she dies and I certainly can't kill her myself. At least I can be there when he euthanizes her.
If anyone is concerned about e. coli there's a great article at
http://www.vetafarm.com/pages/E.coli-%2d-myths-and-misunderstanding-.html
Adults aren't really affected, it's the younger ones for the most part-because the bacteria is literally everywhere and there's so many different strains. I wasn't going to hatch any more chicks or buy any more babies anyway, I sure want to keep the ones I've already raised through this long hot summer though. So at least my adults should be fine. So bleach your shoes and hands and change clothes before you mess with your chickens after you've been to a chicken show, swap or auction.

That is one thing I really like about our a-frames there is no walking into the pen, or cross contamination of pens.. Even adults can be affected by strains they have never been exposed to. So for those who like to aquire new birds or show here is a simple process to protect your flock.
Treatment of Birds

• Handle every bird once a week to feel and inspect them for signs of parasite infestations. By knowing what your bird normally feels like, it could tip you off to an otherwise unnoticeable problem.
• My preferred method to remove internal parasites is using a water soluble product in their drinking water. Upon initial treatment repeating it in 10 days will rid them of any parasites that may have hatched from the eggs the first treatment did not get. After this initial treatment I usually set my routine to every 30 days. Upon application, never leave in drinking water more than one day so the next day provide clean fresh drinking water. Some parasites can build up immunity to certain drugs and it would be a good idea to have 2 different products and alternate them from application to application.
• AS mentioned in above section poultry wormers are usually effective for round worms only so by using a product like Ivermectin (either in a pour on or an oral formula) between the worming through their water can serve as a prevention for both internal and external parasites.
• For external parasites I will dip my birds every month, when weather allows, in a 5 gallon bucket with a solution of water and malithion 55%. I mix it 1 tablespoon to 5 gallons of water. Remember, I am using the 55% and it is concentrated so it does not take much and is economical to use. There are other products like permethrin that can be used. The reason I choose malithion is that I keep it around to rid my vegetable garden of pests and see no need to keep an extra chemical around when I can use the same thing. I also use it to spray pens mixing it at the same ratio as I do when I dip. If birds are molting I will dip them once a week. This serves as not only a external parasite control but the extra moisture really helps them put in nice plumage.
• Upon inspection of the bird, if lice or mites are noticed I will apply Adams flea and tick spray. Two pumps at the vent, one under each wing and one behind the neck at the base. I do this early in the day as I have birds that like to sleep with their head tucked under their wing. By doing it early I do not run the risk of birds being harmed by fumes when they go to roost.

Treatment of New Arrivals or Birds Returning From Shows

Most people will provide for a treatment plan or quarantine for new birds that are purchased to be added to a flock, however you should treat any bird returning from a show the same.
While at the show your birds were exposed to the conditions, bacteria, virus, fungus and parasites that may have existed on every bird the judge handled which may be hundreds. The following is a simple and cost effective method I use when either acquiring new brood stock or when returning from shows and has worked well for me.

Prepare two dip solutions; the first is a mix of water and oxine. Oxine is known to kill 99% of all bacteria, virus, and fungus it comes in contact with and will insure you are not introducing a pathogen into your flock.
The second dip I like to use is water and Adams shampoo or dip to bath the bird and rid it of any external parasites. You will want to repeat this treatment 7-10 days later and prior to re-introducing the bird to your flock to insure you have not introduced any external parasites.

Both of the products listed are very cost effective and a critical part in the care of your entire flock. One infected bird can be very costly and time consuming to rectify, prevention is the best cure.
Keep in mind no one treatment works for everyone or for every region and problem but we will all deal with both internal and external parasites to some degree in our dealing with poultry. No one is immune to the effects or infestations of parasites the best we can do is try to minimize the effect.

 

[Ksane]

Quote:
I'm da*n sure not an expert, I just have dying birds

But the L & S in "L-S 50" stands for lincomycin-spectinomycin-so you're right-that's what they use and that's what mine are on now. It's powder I'm mixing in the water. The other Cochin babies (14 wks now) still look and act so good and the Silkies (16 wks) are all acting good. My little Cochin pullet I've had to the vet 3 times probably won't make it another 12 hrs, same with my daughter's pet cockeral. I've wracked my brain trying to figure out the best way to deal with this. I've got big round pans with bleach and water that I step in before I go into each chicken's area. The Cochin babies are completely isolated in their pen but they always have been. I'm raking up every speck of poop in their pen all the time and am going to continually spray down with Oxine in there, their coop, change shavings in their coop every day if I have to. He said to be prepared because I was going to lose more. But I'm hoping he's wrong.
What makes me just sick is the Cochin pen really is isolated and the most protected one. *I* brought this crap into their pen on my shoes. That's hard to swallow.

Mitzi,
Dom't blame yourself. if they are outside they are exposed. There really is very very little a person can do to prevent exposure, and unfortunately without exposure they will never develop an imunity and ability to cope with the E.coli, Cocci, or other things present in the environment.
there are several starins of Cocci, and e.coli among other things. Each individual location where a bird grows up will be slightly different, and this is why mixing flocks can be a hazardous for some of teh birds even adults or juveniles, although the younger the bird the more suseptable they are. Unfortunately when the birds are protected and exposure is severly limited until an older age it only prolongs the period of time they are suseptable.
All wild birds, mice, and other animals carry the common bacteria as well as bugs, worms, beetles (among the worste). This is why it is possible to reduce the problem for a short time but never eradicate the threat.
Fortunately we are coming up on a dormant bug period which is good, flies transmit a great deal of bacteria that will cause many problems but mostly respiratory and e.coli. unfortunately the cool weather brings in more mice and the like which will carry even more pathogens and parasites.
Losses of young birds is expected to some degree and based on what they are exposed to and what the breeder birds had been exposed to over many generations will help determine the strength of the imune system. long term exposure is a good thing as the animals with teh better ability to cope with the infection will thrive and continue to reproduce.

if you firmly believe that the adult birds you have are the cuase, mix some oxine and water as a dip, and dip the birds. I would use a clean water rinse first to get any dust dirt and debrise off of the bird, teh oxine mixture will sterilize the exterior of the bird, add some oxine to teh drinking water and sterilize them internally then give them all some un-flavored yogurt or you can get Pro-biotics at the feed stores. Keep in mind this isn't fool proof with the wild birds, and mice etc. they will still be exposed at some point.

Excellent information. Heck, it should be stickied. I would feel a ton better to just go ahead and dip all the adults, they're in the other yard. I can't even be sure it was even the 6 SexLinks because the guineas aren't confined and we've got tons of wild birds everywhere out here. I can't help thinking that if it was the Sex Links (who were here before any of the babies and on the same ground as the babies are now) then why would it take until the young ones are 14 wks to show up when they've been on that ground in that pen for 10 wks? Makes no sense. So I can't blame the SexLinks. But's it's most certainly not going to hurt to dip them and flush their systems with some oxine water. The adults will all literally eat anything so giving them yogurt will be easy. That's a good suggestion. How long should I keep the oxine in their water? And do I give yogurt each day they've got oxine in the water? Or wait til afterwards?
Thanks.

 

[sjarvis00]

I like to use oxine in the water about once a month to control algea and other stuff in the waterers, butthat is at a rate of 1/8 tsp per gallon which is not suposed to harm teh bacteria in the intestinal tract. At a rate of 1/4 Tsp per gallon that will clean the birds out. Leave the water that way till its gone, then give them some yogurt for a day or two as a treat. Giving them the yogurt while still on oxine water will be of no use as the live cultures will be killed by the oxine.

 

[Sooner]

Make sure you have a nice warm place to put them while they dry

 

[Ksane]

Quote:
That's what I was thinking, to give the yogurt afterwards. Well it looks like everyone's going to get baths again, that ought to be fun. I'll have to time it to when it's going to be reasonably warm out.
Edit: Sooner, that gave me a good idea. I'll get the adults coop shavings cleaned out (1/2 the barn separated long-ways) and soak it down with Oxine and set the heater up in there with towels on the floor. That way I can bathe and dip each bird and they can dry on the towels in a heated room. Then when they're dry I can pick the towels up and lay down their fresh shavings. That will make me feel so much better just knowing it's all clean and sanitized in there.

 

[artsyrobin]

Quote:
What are moderns?

Modern Game bantam. a very long legged game bantam, most are very calm, docile, easily handled. But the legs are prone to freezing due to length and such tight body feather.

This my modern, Emily- sweet girl- lost her leg to frostbite before i got her

 

[Sooner]

My day is almost over!!!!!!!!! Time to go play with the chickens again.

Robin does your little modern put any weight on the stub or just hop?

 

[artsyrobin]

she does both- in her cage i have a towel to make it soft, but if she and zigzag are in a hurry she with use it like normal, even tries to scratch her face with it.... that is weird to see- she will stare at the stub after scratching her face like she is trying to see why it didn't work right