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LOL you are possibly right!!!


Thanks both, unfortunately there is no 'cure' for fibro' - but we've actually been living with it for 8 years or so now (even if we didnt' have a name for it!) and he has a pretty good idea of how to self care. He knows he can't push himself physically like he used to, and sleeps later than what other people do - but if he doesn't and gets tired he ends up in a bad place for a few days. He also has his meds in terms of pain etc in place the last couple of years which is helping a lot. Even the GP was happy just to keep on how we are med wise. Now we know what it is we are working on looking into all the natural options to add to the turmeric that he has been taking medicinally with great effect in place of Ibruprufen (after an almost perferated stomach from taking it too regularly). Hopefully we can find some relief from the poor sleep which is part of the illness and increases the other symptoms when tired. Sadly it has meant we are not where we should be with our projects for holiday accommodation here as he just hasnt' been able to do the hours we have needed to do to get the first one ready for last year. Everything crossed we can manage for this summer (or we are screwed!).


there is no medicinal cure but any food that helps bones, muscles, etc will definitively help. eg. use himalayan salt in everyday cooking (feeds bones), etc.
 
my marans, brahma, faverolles and silkies seem to enjoy scratching mud. they are not nice with dirty feathers but luckily it does not rain often. I wouldn't get rid of those beautiful birds.
They are lovely - I'm sure once I get my coop and run sorted out a bit better with cover that will help! They are fine in summer as we have no rain for months!

I got a few used tyres for free and put them in the runs. chickens love to sit on them when it is cold or if there is a lot of mud.
Yep we have some of them - dh does all our tire changes - I have a couple in there but shoudl maybe put some more for them!
I plan to dig a bit on the upper part and put some stones
That sounds like a good plan - I think if I dug down a bit along the top fence and built up a bit on the bottom things would be much better.
my silkies run into the muddy run like torpedo!
Bless them! Mine didnt' seem bothered before about being out - that is why I'm a bit worried they may be getting bullied and if I should consider putting them into thier own coop / pen maybe with my little bantam roo.
sorry for your husbund.
Thanks.
there is no medicinal cure but any food that helps bones, muscles, etc will definitively help. eg. use himalayan salt in everyday cooking (feeds bones), etc.
Didn't know that - interestingly that is what I currently have. We are looking at foods as some things seem to set him off (like pasta). We are what we eat!

Raining again here - think i'm going to try to find a tarp to put over my greenhouse tunnel hoop thing to give them somewhere dry to go as it is due to keep raining for a couple of weeks.
 
Here is my list of advice for Germany. If anyone would like to add anything, feel free.

First of all, these are all from my personal experiece, I cannot guarantee the accuracy 100% and the list is not complete. ;)

Legal

Chickens must be registered with your “Veterinäramt”. For us it was free. They will give you a registration number and ask how many (approximately, since chicken math is complicated) chickens you have.

“Tierseuchenkasse”: This is a fund that will help in cases of epidemics, disposal of cadavers, etc. It is mainly meant for large livestock or industrial chicken keeping. These are organized by state and dues are quite low if you are keeping a small flock. Maybe couple of cents per chicken and a minimum due of €10 per year.

The “Bauamt” will let you know if you are allowed to keep chickens where you live. In general, if you live in a village where livestock is typical, you should be allowed to keep chickens. In mixed (industrial and residential) areas, it should also be ok. If it is a residential only area with mainly new developments, it could be prohibited. To be sure, check with your “Bauamt”.

Chickens MUST be vaccinated against Newcastle's Disease. Most “Geflügelzuchtvereine” (local poultry associations) will offer the 3-monthly vaccination per drinking water. They will set a certain day/time to pick it up. The vaccination must be drunken within 2 hours of when they mix it, so you must plan accordingly.

Another option is to go through your vet and get shots. This is a vaccination that is good for a year.

Getting the shots was expensive for me the first year, since I was alone bought the whole pack (€60). My vet had just opened her practice and I was her first chicken keeper. She also does horses, so in time she found more chicken keepers and now I only pay a couple of Euros per chicken. The drinking water vaccination should also be very cheap through the associations, since costs are shared.

Finding a veterinarian that is chicken savvy is not easy. If you do your research, you might be able to help them along. If you find one that knows chickens, count yourself very lucky. My vet is willing to treat my chickens and research treatment and medication. She is also open to my suggestions and I am very grateful to have her.


Medical


Antiobiotics:

Baytril

Baycox

Tylan/Tylosin/Tylosucit (no waiting period for eggs)

Pain Reliever/Anti-Inflammatory:

Metacam

Aspirin (5-10mg/kg)


Vaccination for chicks coccidia:

Paracox

Feed “with cocc” can be purchased for chicks. Make sure this is the ONLY thing that they get.


Worms:

Flubenol: I have a powder, but I have also heard of people receiving the paste for cats.

Concurat: DO NOT let your vet give you this. Unfortunately, people are still receiving Concurat, even though it is not allowed for laying birds. It supposedly builds up in the ovaries and can be passed on to humans where it will build up in female ovaries.


Wound Treatment:


Blauspray (make sure you get the type for animal treatment and not a surface disinfectant)

Bepanthen cream

Propolis Cream

Betaisodona


Trichomoniasis (inofficial):

Spartrix (available for pigeons)

Metronidazole


Homeopathic:

Euphrasia: These are eye drops which I use for our chickens or cats when eyes are irritated or lightly infected

Traumeel: Available as an ointment or pills, Traumeel treats sprains and bruises

Viruvetsan: Boosts the immune system of poultry against respiratory and cardiovascular issues. Drops for the drinking water.

Verminex: Drops against fleas/mites on a basis of coconut oil. Also for dogs and cats.

Onions and Garlic: I like to give my hens with respiratory issues/colds fresh cut up onions and garlic. You can clearly tell that hens with the most problems will gladly eat it.

Dosto-Ropa Oregano Oil 12%: 1 ml/3l water (please check directions before use). Oregano oil supports the respiratory tract and the intestinal tract against parasites.

Moro'sche Karottensuppe (Moro Carrot soup):

From Wikipedia:



Active Charcoal: Diarrhea


Humane Medicine:

Gelomyrtol:

Gelomyrtol is a homeopathic decongestant capsule for human use that contains natural oils. I give 2 capsules immediately when eyes are starting to swell, indicating respiratory issues. Then 1 in the evening on the roost.

Anti-Fungal:

Fungizid Ratiopharm: available as cream and spray

Nystatin

Syringes: I purchased a large pack of 100 here: https://www.sanicare.de/product?art...eisvergleich&etcc_par=billiger&et_date=160201 They are cheap in bulk and very nice to have on hand for emergencies.


Ballistol:

Ballistol is a gun oil that has a wide range of uses. Also available as Ballistol Animal, but the regular type will do.

Feather mites: spray on the cloaca

Scaly leg mites: spray on legs


Supplements:

Bierhefe (Brewer's Yeast): protein, vitamins, minerals, amino acids

Brennessel (Stinging nettle): Vitamins and minerals

Mohn (Poppy seeds): prevents diarrhea in chicks

Traubenzucker (Dextrose/Glucose): available for humans, used for animals that need a fast energy boost, often mixed with egg yolk


The coop:

For painting the inside of the coop, you can get Weisskalkhydrat or Kalkanstrich (readily mixed and available at hardware stores). This is comparable to a lime wash, which is antimicrobial and prevents mold.

Kieselgur: this is diatomaceous earth in a powder form, used for all the cracks and gaps to prevent mites. I also add it to the bathing areas or sometimes directly on the birds. Be careful, as it irritates the eyes and respiratory organs.

Mikrogur: Kieselgur that is water solubale and can be sprayed on

Hardware cloth:

For me, the cheapest source was Siepmann

They offered the same product at half the price of our hardware store. They also carry other agricultural items.

Automatic Coop Doors:

Axt
Jost



Poultry Specific Supplements:


Rhönfried Hennengold: For better shells and moult support

Rhönfried ADEC: vitamin supplement

Pelin Essenz: colds and respiratory issues


There are plenty more supplements. SL-Chickery is a nice site to visit.

If I think of anything else, I will edit the list. :)
Well done.
Perhaps if we get a few of these we could get them lumped together as a sticky or top of post.
 
Well done.
Perhaps if we get a few of these we could get them lumped together as a sticky or top of post.
Good idea - Cyprus has also offered to put it all into a table form once we get the info together. I just have no idea what I can get here so will take me a while to pull together the info for France but I will try as I need to know and be able to act quickly when / if needed one day.
 
I don't keep much in the way of medication here.
What has proven to be a fantastic buy is my pet carrier. I'll get a picture up later.
Not only does it save having to discourage the not so sick from trying to help me drive to the vets, it works really well as short term confinement for injured chickens when they're in the house. Very easy to keep clean. Option to have the front open for those who are mobile enough to want to stretch their legs. Because of it's construction I can drape a towel over it at night to block the light and the chickens don't moan at me to go to bed.
I've even used it as an emergency nest box.
 
I'm seriously rethinking my feathered feeted varieties!

I had a feather footed hen that really had a lot of feathers on her feet few years ago. She was the cleanest chicken I have ever had! When it was raining and everyone else went crazy for worms and stuff, she was waiting in her coop! And she was NEVER digging anything- she would stay by one specific hen and wait until she got something and then steal it from her. I don't know if she was protecting her feathers or was just being lazy her entire life.
 
Hi! Does anyone have a clue how many days takes break a broodiness? Today went broody fifth chicken. I dont care, but in the coop is mess. I have only 5 nestbox and other laying hens drops their eggs on the floor and infront of nests. Broody chickens going to eat and they just crush these eggs. Usually all my chickens lay in the morning, but outside is a cold and there is confusion. A month ago went first broody, then second. I just put on them frozen water filled minicrip bag. Every night before the lights go off I moved them on the roostbar. Brahma chicken finished her broodiness, but after 1,5 week she went broody again. And others too, of course! I sealed the nestboxis, ayam cemanis still broke through. Today i closed the nests with a strong cardboard. How long should I hold these sealings? I have no chance to put eggs under broody chickens, its too cold outside and season will start in april.
 
I'm so sorry :hugs
Thanks sumi.
What has proven to be a fantastic buy is my pet carrier.
I keep thinking I should get one - they sometimes have them on really good offers like under €10 so perhaps should grab one next time. Is the cat size OK or does it need to be bigger?
I don't know if she was protecting her feathers or was just being lazy her entire life.
That's funny but maybe what my silkie girls are doing!
Does anyone have a clue how many days takes break a broodiness?
Sorry not sure - I just shove eggs under mine when they go broody!
 
Thanks sumi.

I keep thinking I should get one - they sometimes have them on really good offers like under €10 so perhaps should grab one next time. Is the cat size OK or does it need to be bigger?

That's funny but maybe what my silkie girls are doing!

Sorry not sure - I just shove eggs under mine when they go broody!
I've got a small dog size I think.
 

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