Single hen? She herself won't smell at all! The poop- it does smell, anyone who says otherwise is lying There are two main kinds of poop, one that isn't so bad, and one that is stinky enough that you won't want to be around it- though honestly, it is definitely no worse than any other kind of pet poop I've ever had to deal with. I've not had diapered chickens but the way I dealt with my three indoors before they were too young to go outside was just to clean up ASAP whenever one of the really bad deposits got... deposited. That being said I find my babies do tend to prefer to go away from places they like to sit, so I never got pooped on once they were old enough to work out when they needed to go, and chicken poop is pretty easy to clean up.
Cuddling chickens is the best thing, they are absolutely wonderful.
Thank you for the advice! I'm excited to get my first hen! Do you have any breed suggestions?