Iheartchicks<3
:
Quote:
how cn i mke it look like phones? did u see my other pic?
I see three phones stacked?
Quote:
how cn i mke it look like phones? did u see my other pic?
I see three phones stacked?
Photography 101 a BYC taught class *NEW Lesson on Pg. 21*COLOR*
- Thread starter Msbear
- Start date
Thank you babymakes6. I was really worried that I would hurt feelings. I do not want anyone to stop loving photography because of something I said. I love looking at pictures....and taking pics. My dad used to be a wedding photographer before I was born, I used to love to use his camera, he tried to teach me about the techniques, but I still am horrible with apertures and stuff. But he instilled the love. I have had a camera of some sort for as long as I can remember, but until recently (last 3 years) I would just take snap shots, I still do a lot of the time. My camera is first to help with memories. But I would LOVE to get to the point where my photos are great and wonderful without needing to fix them afterwards.
That is it exactly, I wanted the phone in mine to be the main focus too.
That is it exactly, I wanted the phone in mine to be the main focus too.
I'm loving this first lesson! I started a thread for a photography class as well if anyone would care to join. I'm just starting with some simple lessons for now to get everyone settled in and on the same page. I look forward to doing this!
thank you. i thought it would be clever to take a pic of a phone taking a pic of phones
Erin wanted a lesson on exposure which is a very good place to begin learning the very basics.
I left the big gear inside and took out a point and shoot so I would be on the same page as you all. Erins next lesson will be on exposure, so break out your manuals, read how to adjust your exposure, especially exposure compensation"
Just a quick grab, zero editing in these two shots.
Image 1 is a full auto image out of the camera allowing the camera to adjust every aspect of the image
Image 2 is still in auto mode, however 1/3 stop of light has been removed by using exposure compensation. Look at the detail come back in the left side of the sky. (slight crop variation due to turkeys pushing me around)
Image 3 was taken using one of the cameras "scene" modes. Its actually fairly intelligent and handled the sky detail well without killing the mid and shadow tones, however you can see that the green in the sunflowers is slightly brighter then the image using exposure compensation.
Last image is the same as #3 with basic edits done in a post work flow.
Finally, an edited image using -3/4 stop of light. Much better detail, and color, as well as being hosted off of a forum based site.
Sorry for the haste but im packing for this weekends assignment. Maybe if we can get some basic questions answered, you can really buckle down and start creating images that will have you much happier when you display them.
I left the big gear inside and took out a point and shoot so I would be on the same page as you all. Erins next lesson will be on exposure, so break out your manuals, read how to adjust your exposure, especially exposure compensation"
Just a quick grab, zero editing in these two shots.
Image 1 is a full auto image out of the camera allowing the camera to adjust every aspect of the image
Image 2 is still in auto mode, however 1/3 stop of light has been removed by using exposure compensation. Look at the detail come back in the left side of the sky. (slight crop variation due to turkeys pushing me around)
Image 3 was taken using one of the cameras "scene" modes. Its actually fairly intelligent and handled the sky detail well without killing the mid and shadow tones, however you can see that the green in the sunflowers is slightly brighter then the image using exposure compensation.
Last image is the same as #3 with basic edits done in a post work flow.
Finally, an edited image using -3/4 stop of light. Much better detail, and color, as well as being hosted off of a forum based site.
Sorry for the haste but im packing for this weekends assignment. Maybe if we can get some basic questions answered, you can really buckle down and start creating images that will have you much happier when you display them.
Last edited:
Ever see those images where the background is either gone (washed out /overbright?)
Try again using exposure compensation....
Original
Subtract 1/3
The skin tone is still horrible, but look at the back ground. A tad darker. A TON more could be done to make this a much better image.....
Same process.....with a twist
Original with an adjustment of -.07ev (3/4 stop) still dialed into the camera
Minus 3/4 stop still dialed into the camera, however I composed the image, pressed the shutter halfway down while aiming the camera at the back ground, then repositioned the camera on my sons head. The camera locked the exposure on the background. This is where you get to make changes based on how YOU want the image to appear. Adding back a stop or even bringing back the exposure compensation to zero would have brought back up the correct exposure on the main subject. Using this little trick can sometimes be alot faster with a point and shoot where making in camera adjustments arent all that easy. In fairly even lighting, this works well, in a scene where its super bright or dark behind the subject it wont work at all....but it gives you an idea of how the metering affects the image with no changes to the camera itself.
You will also find that every light varies. In the current light this camera is metering well with a -.07 adjustment. As long as we stay in the same level of lighting, the images should be very close to where I want them. If you can practice, you will start immediatley seeing better results. If the light changes, I will need to decide to make an adjustment to suit the subject or scene the way I want it, not the way the camera thinks it should be.
Try again using exposure compensation....
Original
Subtract 1/3
The skin tone is still horrible, but look at the back ground. A tad darker. A TON more could be done to make this a much better image.....
Same process.....with a twist
Original with an adjustment of -.07ev (3/4 stop) still dialed into the camera
Minus 3/4 stop still dialed into the camera, however I composed the image, pressed the shutter halfway down while aiming the camera at the back ground, then repositioned the camera on my sons head. The camera locked the exposure on the background. This is where you get to make changes based on how YOU want the image to appear. Adding back a stop or even bringing back the exposure compensation to zero would have brought back up the correct exposure on the main subject. Using this little trick can sometimes be alot faster with a point and shoot where making in camera adjustments arent all that easy. In fairly even lighting, this works well, in a scene where its super bright or dark behind the subject it wont work at all....but it gives you an idea of how the metering affects the image with no changes to the camera itself.
You will also find that every light varies. In the current light this camera is metering well with a -.07 adjustment. As long as we stay in the same level of lighting, the images should be very close to where I want them. If you can practice, you will start immediatley seeing better results. If the light changes, I will need to decide to make an adjustment to suit the subject or scene the way I want it, not the way the camera thinks it should be.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #127
Wow! Thanks for the info and the direction for our next lesson... though I still don't quite understand it all
I'd like to include everyone.. even those who don't have the fancy cameras. This one won't be a competition and all are open for discussion. When you post your submission, please include a brief explanative of how you took the pic, what time of day and any adjustments you made manually to take the pic.
Assignment #2 Exposure
WIKI definition: In photography, exposure is the total amount of light allowed to fall on the photographic medium (photographic film or image sensor) during the process of taking a photograph. Exposure is measured in lux seconds, and can be computed from exposure value (EV) and scene luminance over a specified area.
In photographic jargon, an exposure generally refers to a single shutter cycle. For example: a long exposure refers to a single, protracted shutter cycle to capture enough low-intensity light, whereas a multiple exposure involves a series of relatively brief shutter cycles; effectively layering a series of photographs in one image. For the same film speed, the accumulated photometric exposure (H) should be similar in both cases.
Overexposure vs. Underexposure
A photograph may be described as overexposed when it has a loss of highlight detail, that is, when important bright parts of an image are "washed out" or effectively all white, known as "blown out highlights" or "clipped whites" [9]. A photograph may be described as underexposed when it has a loss of shadow detail, that is, when important dark areas are "muddy" or indistinguishable from black,[10] known as "blocked up shadows" (or sometimes "crushed shadows," "crushed blacks," or "clipped blacks," especially in video).[11][12][13] As the image to the right shows, these terms are technical ones rather than artistic judgments; an overexposed or underexposed image may be "correct", in that it provides the effect that the photographer intended. Intentionally over- or under- exposing (relative to a standard or the camera's automatic exposure) is casually referred to as "shooting to the right" or "shooting to the left", respectively, as these shift the histogram of the image to the right or left.
How to operate Exposure Manually
In manual mode, the photographer adjusts the lens aperture and/or shutter speed to achieve the desired exposure. Many photographers choose to control aperture and shutter independently because opening up the aperture increases exposure, but also decreases the depth of field, and a slower shutter increases exposure but also increases the opportunity for motion blur.
'Manual' exposure calculations may be based on some method of light metering with a working knowledge of exposure values, the APEX system and/or the Zone System.
The Subject: SKY Feel free to peek at the sky through tree branches or use some sort of other object in your image for composition or just focus on some nice clouds rolling by. Consider exposure time by adjusting shutter speeds if you have a fancy camera to gain as much detail as you can. I'd like for all of the pics to be taken from 10am-7pm so it involves a bright sky. Point and shooters may want to do it a bit earlier or later and use the lack of light to your advantage since cannot adjust the exposure time. Shooting away from the sun and into the sun will create totally different affects. Have fun and, when Ken gets back, he can help critique us. Submissions are due no later than 9pm on Tuesday night.
I'd like to include everyone.. even those who don't have the fancy cameras. This one won't be a competition and all are open for discussion. When you post your submission, please include a brief explanative of how you took the pic, what time of day and any adjustments you made manually to take the pic.
Assignment #2 Exposure
WIKI definition: In photography, exposure is the total amount of light allowed to fall on the photographic medium (photographic film or image sensor) during the process of taking a photograph. Exposure is measured in lux seconds, and can be computed from exposure value (EV) and scene luminance over a specified area.
In photographic jargon, an exposure generally refers to a single shutter cycle. For example: a long exposure refers to a single, protracted shutter cycle to capture enough low-intensity light, whereas a multiple exposure involves a series of relatively brief shutter cycles; effectively layering a series of photographs in one image. For the same film speed, the accumulated photometric exposure (H) should be similar in both cases.
Overexposure vs. Underexposure
A photograph may be described as overexposed when it has a loss of highlight detail, that is, when important bright parts of an image are "washed out" or effectively all white, known as "blown out highlights" or "clipped whites" [9]. A photograph may be described as underexposed when it has a loss of shadow detail, that is, when important dark areas are "muddy" or indistinguishable from black,[10] known as "blocked up shadows" (or sometimes "crushed shadows," "crushed blacks," or "clipped blacks," especially in video).[11][12][13] As the image to the right shows, these terms are technical ones rather than artistic judgments; an overexposed or underexposed image may be "correct", in that it provides the effect that the photographer intended. Intentionally over- or under- exposing (relative to a standard or the camera's automatic exposure) is casually referred to as "shooting to the right" or "shooting to the left", respectively, as these shift the histogram of the image to the right or left.
How to operate Exposure Manually
In manual mode, the photographer adjusts the lens aperture and/or shutter speed to achieve the desired exposure. Many photographers choose to control aperture and shutter independently because opening up the aperture increases exposure, but also decreases the depth of field, and a slower shutter increases exposure but also increases the opportunity for motion blur.
'Manual' exposure calculations may be based on some method of light metering with a working knowledge of exposure values, the APEX system and/or the Zone System.
The Subject: SKY Feel free to peek at the sky through tree branches or use some sort of other object in your image for composition or just focus on some nice clouds rolling by. Consider exposure time by adjusting shutter speeds if you have a fancy camera to gain as much detail as you can. I'd like for all of the pics to be taken from 10am-7pm so it involves a bright sky. Point and shooters may want to do it a bit earlier or later and use the lack of light to your advantage since cannot adjust the exposure time. Shooting away from the sun and into the sun will create totally different affects. Have fun and, when Ken gets back, he can help critique us. Submissions are due no later than 9pm on Tuesday night.
Im not sure what your asking for, but here are my 2 sky shots..
Quote:
how cn i mke it look like phones? did u see my other pic?
I see three phones stacked?
me too.
how cn i mke it look like phones? did u see my other pic?
I see three phones stacked?
me too.
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