Pigeons egg

[shellikirbey]

I give him some electrolyte water after feeding him to help with the food moving better..so far so good..he was very week and almost froze i think..he was stiff and could barely move so im wondering if parents couldnt feed him cause he was so week and didnt open mouth cause he didnt when i first tryed to feed him and i force fed him electrolytes first two feedings and he just kept getting stronger and now he stands and flaps his wings to be fed, even when he just heres me..but i am worryef about feeding to much at a time so hope im feeding enuf but i feel his crop to make sure full but not tight full..it says feed at his age 30 ml..that seems like alot..his crop gets pretty full at somewhere around

 

[shellikirbey]

His sibling died at two days old, im thinking he got out from under parents and got cold..when i first brought him in he was so cold.he was stiff and didnt open mouth when i tryed to feed him so im thinking he almost froze and was to week for parents to get his mouth open cause they took real good care of him the 2 weeks he was with them until they couldnt sit on him anymore..he is now standing and flapping his wings to be fed..i force fed him electrolytes the first two feedings and he kept getting stronger and then i went to a poridge and he seems normal for his age now..i am worryed about not giving him enuf as he always wants to eat if he sees me.i read 30 ml for his age at one feeding but he looks full at around 15ml..his crop is always empty and flatter at feeding time from morning to bedtime.i always give him a drink of electrolytes after feeding him for some added liquid to move things around better..that silkie chick has become his buddy..when i pik up squab the chick flys at me out of cage ...lol

 

[Hokum Coco]

I give him some electrolyte water after feeding him to help with the food moving better..so far so good.
You are doing just great buddy. It will not be long before he is eating on his own if he has not already started. The fact that he has a chick for a buddy is awesome your squab will soon pick up the chick habits also share body heat in the cold days and nights. Is the squab in the company of his parents? If not did you try introducing him back to his family?

 

[shellikirbey]

I havnt introduced back to parents yet but i think he could be now

 

[shellikirbey]

Well i tryed to introduce him back to the parents but everytime i do it looks like thete peckin his head..could they just be trying to feed it cause hes hollering when they do it

i hate to leave him in with them if thete pecking him..so ive tryed 3 timed to put him back and i would watch awhile and they would start pecking at his head.the male is a little agressive but the female did it to

 

[Hokum Coco]

Well i tryed to introduce him back to the parents thete peckin his head..

Your squab is now officially an orphan. He will suffer sever injury if left in close proximity of the parents. This may have been avoided possibly if you have kept the squab in contact with the male while he was recovering from hypothermia (no guarantee).

On the "UPSIDE" your squab should be eating on his own soon if he has not already started.

"WELL DONE"

 

[shellikirbey]

Yea i should of just brought them all in..thats what i thought too..ill know next time..thanks

 

[laughingdog]

Hi! First off your problem not your fault at all.. your birds fancy show pigeons called satinettes (if I spelled correctly). They are usually unable to properly rear their own young because of beak shape and size, feathered feet, shape of body, etc.. their eggs swapped to homers rollers flights ferals etc that are hardy, who layed at same time. Also each female needs two nests, because when they get ready to start another pair of eggs at age yours abandoned, female abandons them mostly for male to care after she lays again, and the parents may scalp kick out or kill old young to start nest again if another isn't provided. show only animals are very stupid and aggressive as coping mechanism to small confinement and from extensive extreme inbreeding.

Pigeons unless specially feathered (silky sizzle frizzle frillback etc..), don't have trouble keeping warm through tough cold winters, as long as can keep in heat being kept fed watered (they'll bath in soil water and sun on frozen days if given options that actually good for helping feather cleaning preening n insulation), draft free dry and have bedding. If given open wire cage even with board over top stopping rain and blocking sun from back corners where each.. cardboard box with opening just large enough for one at a time to come and go, with old newspaper (so ink dried) on botttom and soil/bedding covering that allowing traction and added insulation, they'll rear fat happy babies below zero through winter. Remember they're in natural state build to rear on seaside freezing cliff ledges, rock walls, and caves/caverns, and in cities commonly nest under freezing metal and concrete bridges without good clean fresh feed, nesting material, etc, and water fresh unpolluted or frozen. Leave feces in cage if staying freezing as insulation unless getting wet n smelly.
Feed cheap layer 16-20% protien (less better or they get messy poops), but more good for more or fancy feathered breeds, so lower protien n less calcium, crumbles if small breed or beaked. Mix in half whole corn for more normal breeds beaked, n split/cut/broken/crumbled for small breed or beaked. Keep small poultry grit available for more normal breeds, and caged/song bird grit available for small breed or beaked breeds.

 

[shellikirbey]

Thank u so much..i got them at a luvestock auction and hav read up on them but had not heard a lot u told me and it make sence too.thanks..at least baby is growing ..i just hope i feed him enough..hes always whines when he sees me

 

[laughingdog]

Awww.. good and congratulations.
Could be old English or classic frills I always get three mixed up except one only comes in that color.