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Please show me close ups of your slanted roof

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Oceanseve, Apr 11, 2009.

  1. 406Jen

    406Jen Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 22, 2015
    I'm not the original poster, but thank you for the wonderful pictures. I'm in the midst of my own buildin project - using The Garden Coop plans - and am paused at roofing materials. My local hardware store sells the SunTuf Polycarbonate roof panels for around $35/sheet, and I need 6, plus the spacers ($8/packet).

    I'm open to a metal roof that will be less expensive, but I'm a novice builder. Can you talk to me a bit about the material used on top of your rafter grid? Is it a foam material? Did your sheets come in 8' lengths? Any cons to using metal vs SunTuf that you know of?
     
  2. 406Jen

    406Jen Out Of The Brooder

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    Mar 22, 2015
    To answer the original question, my plans call for all walls of the same height, and then place diagonally cut rafters (cut a 2x8x8 on a diagonal lengthwise) to create the slant.

    I didn't want to struggle with a diagonal cut, so I made my front wall 1' taller than my rear wall and laid 2x4s skinny side up. I'll place my roofing material across 4 purlins placed horizontally across those rafters.

    Don't have a picture now, but I'm using The Garden Coop plans and the net is rife with pics of the finished project using their method. A previous respondent is using the wall-differential method and has included pictures of what i'm doing.
     
  3. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Douglasville, GA
    i bought the PVC roofing from lowes (the PVC wont get nearly as hot as the metal roofing) it was the only place i could find it in 10' length. my roof is 6' at the rear and 7' at the front and 10*12 over and 8*10. the overhang in the back is only about 6 inches since the run underneath is mostly protected by the coop and it extends about 1 1/2 foot over the front. you dont need those plastic spacers on the whole roof. i'll go grab a few more pics for you with what i used....be back in a few
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  4. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
    Douglasville, GA
    the rear of the roof

    [​IMG]
     
  5. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
    Douglasville, GA
    the top

    [​IMG]
     
  6. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
    Douglasville, GA
    the side


    [​IMG]
     
  7. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
    Douglasville, GA
    the front


    [​IMG]
     
  8. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
    Douglasville, GA
    it ended up using about 200 screws with the neoprene washers. i cut everything so that the roofing overhangs the structure by an inch and a half and if you notice in the photo of the front, they make a contoured foam for the roofing and i used that to secure the gaps at the front and rear walls of the run to keep critters out and along the sidewalls i just put strips of the 1*2's between the pearlngs and it happend to land under a valley so it sealed itself basically. the pearlings are every 24 inches on center and the roofing is screwed into them on every other rib.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2015
  9. Robotmomma

    Robotmomma Out Of The Brooder

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    Apr 9, 2015
    helpful pics, thegreatwhite. thanks for posting those. did you cut that front beam into sections to fit in between the rafters. I am having a hard time understanding how the rafters are supported. It may be my untrained eyes and I don't even know the proper vocabulary to ask the right questions!

    that white pvc actually looks like painted metal in some of the photos. maybe i will use that too. I wasn't thrilled with the way it looked at the stores but your pics look nice. Like that green a lot.
     
  10. thegreatwhite

    thegreatwhite Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 12, 2015
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    yes, the front and rear beams are sections cut to fit in between the rafters. the roof is actually a beige color, it's just not showing well in the photos. it took me a bit to figure out the roofing/rafter system too. i did have to go back with a grinder and grind off the ends of the roofing screws, i had to use 1 1/2" screws which were a slight bit too long, but there was no 1 1/4 option and 1" was too short
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2015

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