Please show me close ups of your slanted roof

[406Jen]

I'm not the original poster, but thank you for the wonderful pictures. I'm in the midst of my own buildin project - using The Garden Coop plans - and am paused at roofing materials. My local hardware store sells the SunTuf Polycarbonate roof panels for around $35/sheet, and I need 6, plus the spacers ($8/packet).

I'm open to a metal roof that will be less expensive, but I'm a novice builder. Can you talk to me a bit about the material used on top of your rafter grid? Is it a foam material? Did your sheets come in 8' lengths? Any cons to using metal vs SunTuf that you know of?

 

[406Jen]

To answer the original question, my plans call for all walls of the same height, and then place diagonally cut rafters (cut a 2x8x8 on a diagonal lengthwise) to create the slant.

I didn't want to struggle with a diagonal cut, so I made my front wall 1' taller than my rear wall and laid 2x4s skinny side up. I'll place my roofing material across 4 purlins placed horizontally across those rafters.

Don't have a picture now, but I'm using The Garden Coop plans and the net is rife with pics of the finished project using their method. A previous respondent is using the wall-differential method and has included pictures of what i'm doing.

 

[thegreatwhite]

I'm not the original poster, but thank you for the wonderful pictures. I'm in the midst of my own buildin project - using The Garden Coop plans - and am paused at roofing materials. My local hardware store sells the SunTuf Polycarbonate roof panels for around $35/sheet, and I need 6, plus the spacers ($8/packet).

I'm open to a metal roof that will be less expensive, but I'm a novice builder. Can you talk to me a bit about the material used on top of your rafter grid? Is it a foam material? Did your sheets come in 8' lengths? Any cons to using metal vs SunTuf that you know of?

i bought the PVC roofing from lowes (the PVC wont get nearly as hot as the metal roofing) it was the only place i could find it in 10' length. my roof is 6' at the rear and 7' at the front and 10*12 over and 8*10. the overhang in the back is only about 6 inches since the run underneath is mostly protected by the coop and it extends about 1 1/2 foot over the front. you dont need those plastic spacers on the whole roof. i'll go grab a few more pics for you with what i used....be back in a few

 

[thegreatwhite]

the rear of the roof

 

[thegreatwhite]

the top

 

[thegreatwhite]

the side

 

[thegreatwhite]

the front

 

[thegreatwhite]

it ended up using about 200 screws with the neoprene washers. i cut everything so that the roofing overhangs the structure by an inch and a half and if you notice in the photo of the front, they make a contoured foam for the roofing and i used that to secure the gaps at the front and rear walls of the run to keep critters out and along the sidewalls i just put strips of the 1*2's between the pearlngs and it happend to land under a valley so it sealed itself basically. the pearlings are every 24 inches on center and the roofing is screwed into them on every other rib.

 

[Robotmomma]

helpful pics, thegreatwhite. thanks for posting those. did you cut that front beam into sections to fit in between the rafters. I am having a hard time understanding how the rafters are supported. It may be my untrained eyes and I don't even know the proper vocabulary to ask the right questions!

that white pvc actually looks like painted metal in some of the photos. maybe i will use that too. I wasn't thrilled with the way it looked at the stores but your pics look nice. Like that green a lot.

 

[thegreatwhite]

yes, the front and rear beams are sections cut to fit in between the rafters. the roof is actually a beige color, it's just not showing well in the photos. it took me a bit to figure out the roofing/rafter system too. i did have to go back with a grinder and grind off the ends of the roofing screws, i had to use 1 1/2" screws which were a slight bit too long, but there was no 1 1/4 option and 1" was too short