Pole Shed to House Cages for Bachelors, Breeding, Brooding, Isolation/Observation

[aart]

Given I an using rectangular metal sheets for the roof surface the frame needs to be "square" and level so that sheet edges meet over a rafter.

Wouldn't using purlins take that precision out of play?

 

[Ted Brown]

Wouldn't using purlins take that precision out of play?

Yes, but... If the roof is not "square" there will be un-even overhang on the gable ends and one side will not align with the other.

I am not a professional builder, started serious work about 10-12 years ago. I have learned that small mistakes tend to propagate to larger ones and finishing requires more tedious work to cover those mistakes.

Obviously, a pole shed is more "rough" than an enclosed building so I may be anal but do not mind spending extra time to get the frame "squared away". However, that extra time is about done, need to get the roof on soon.

I appreciate your subtle challenges, I do get caught up in the details at times.

 

[Ted Brown]

Most work today was getting the scaffolding centered in the back half then adding a second section and moving the platform to a height that permits easy access to the peak.

Once that was done I installed the 1st peak beam; I was worried about weight but manageable by lifting one end into it's hanger and then lifting the opposite end into it's hanger.

 

[Penpal]

DH and I built this house. I told him, first build a shed then we'll look at building a house. It's really difficult to keep it square. I feel your pain.

After the shed we hired a professional to do the rough carpentry.

 

[Ted Brown]

Actually, no pain felt here!

This structure will eliminate frustrations that arise from not having the flexibility to properly house the flock when one chooses to hatch rather than purchase additional birds.

I have lost pullets/hens to attacks by maturing cockerels because I did not have separate cages (and, of course, my own ignorance about how cruel nature can be).

I get a lot of satisfaction from building particularly when it does not cost much. This whole build will be less than $500 because the trusses were free, I scrounge well/have the space to keep materials until I need them and have sufficient skills to avoid "professionals". I also care enough to take the time to do things properly.

 

[Ted Brown]

2nd ridge beam installed, last of the structural frame pieces.

Onto the last (hopefully) round of "square" & level the whole structure.

 

[Ted Brown]

(Away to visit my new grandson in Toronto for 3 days.)

I ran a string from front to back peak, quickly showed ridge beams had a crook and middle truss too high by 1.5". Had to mull how to fix... Turned out to be trivial.

I adjusted the depth of each of the middle poles individually. The side opposite the direction of the crook went down 4-6", the opposite side went down then back up a bit to bring the two ridge beams in plane and straight; took less than 1.5 hours. Should have taken a picture along the peak both before and after but...

 

[Ted Brown]

Along with the build I am shuffling birds: roosters for the freezer; roosters selected for breeding; June hatch cockerels for grow out to 6 months, pullets for integration with main flock (most integrated at 4 weeks but mis-identified gender on 6-8).

I removed the two Chantecler roos from the main flock this evening. The selected roosters & June cockerels will all reside in the bachelor cage. So now have a "hen house", hoping no roosters will reduce stress and promote better egg laying.

Will process excess roosters in the next day or so and begin to figure which hens are laying; time to stop spending money on non productive birds.

 

[aart]

I adjusted the depth of each of the middle poles individually.

How did you do this?

Should have taken a picture along the peak both before and after but...

Kinda wish you had.

 

[Ted Brown]

How did you do this?

Kinda wish you had.

I started with holes excavated with a backhoe so each approximately 2' wide by 4' deep. I attached 4"x4" posts 10' long to each truss, both sides. I knew height & positioning adjustments would be required so did not backfill.

To raise or lower each post I used a 1"x10" by 4' board placed across the hole then screwed a 2"x6"x6" to the post about 10" higher than the board. I then used my 4' farm jack sitting on the board with the lift under the 2"x6"x6. Jack will lift 10k lbs, I jacked the post up six Inches so I could dig under the post. Got into the hole and using a small shovel, plastic yogurt container & my hands I removed earth under the post approximately the depth I thought I needed. I then reversed the jack and lowered the post. Climbed up the scaffolding to check height and alignment (lowering one side brings the ridge into alightment). Once I had a side where I wanted it I cut another 2"x6" the length from board to bottom of the 2"x6" screwed to the post to slip in so I could remove the jack for use on the opposite side. Rinse & repeat. Once I have both sides where I need I will fill under each post with flatish stones & earth to maintain correct height.

This morning I will measure to verify all posts' position. Key will be the diagonals from back to front at ground level & 8' up and, using a 4' level, getting each post vertical. At this point I have these mostly correct so minor adjusts only I expect.

I work alone. I am inspired by places like Stonehenge & the pyramids, all "built by hand" so know that big expensive machinery is not required. One just needs simple tools cleverly used.

I will take a picture along the ridge beams and post it for posterity.