Polycarbonate shed retrofit for coop

[Kendc0]

I certainly don't mind going back to the drawing board for a solid coop that will last a long while. The only things I really require are the following:
Mobile/tractor style
Simple to intermediate in difficulty to build
10-12 hen capacity (though we only plan on having 6)

If y'all have some ideas or links to some plans, I'd love to see them!

 

[Kendc0]

Oh! And I'm located in Gainesville, GA chicken capital of the world lol

 

[aart]

I certainly don't mind going back to the drawing board for a solid coop that will last a long while. The only things I really require are the following:
Mobile/tractor style
Simple to intermediate in difficulty to build
10-12 hen capacity (though we only plan on having 6)

If y'all have some ideas or links to some plans, I'd love to see them!

Pretty hard to make a tractor for that many birds and still be able to move it.
Might consider building on a large trailer and move with a ATV or garden tractor.
Will you free range?
Have you browsed these articles?:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/category/tractor-coops.17/

 

[Kendc0]

Pretty hard to make a tractor for that many birds and still be able to move it.
Might consider building on a large trailer and move with a ATV or garden tractor.
Will you free range?
Have you browsed these articles?:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/category/tractor-coops.17/

I like a lot of those but based on the advice given before, a lot of them appear to be very under ventilated or too small for about 10 hens. I suppose I'm looking for suggestions because I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info

And no, I live near a major road and my neighborhood has a bit cat problem so they will be strictly run chickens

 

[aart]

I like a lot of those but based on the advice given before, a lot of them appear to be very under ventilated or too small for about 10 hens. I suppose I'm looking for suggestions because I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info

Well, just because it's an 'article' doesn't mean it's perfect(anyone can write one) but they can sometimes give some inspiration. Most designs need some modification.

And no, I live near a major road and my neighborhood has a bit cat problem so they will be strictly run chickens

"Big cat'"like cougars and bobcats or a lot of feral/domestic cats?

 

[Kendc0]

Well, just because it's an 'article' doesn't mean it's perfect(anyone can write one) but they can sometimes give some inspiration. Most designs need some modification.


"Big cat'"like cougars and bobcats or a lot of feral/domestic cats?

Feral house cats~

 

[3KillerBs]

I'm pretty sure I've given this information to you before, but just to make sure because I lose track of who has asked what questions before.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

That said ...,

Are you planning on using your tractor as a mobile coop where the chickens either get out to free range or have a portable pen? Or are you planning on the tractor being their only home?

If the former, 6x8 isn't *too* horribly huge for a tractor IF you put it on good wheels and have something to tow it with. Though you need to understand that the larger the tractor the more need to have a very smooth yard to put it on without having gaps underneath the sides where they contact the ground.

If the tractor is their only home, moved to fresh grass regularly but they don't get out you'll want more than the 4 square feet each.

People who want a mobile setup with layers sometimes build a coop on a trailer then use electric poultry netting for portable pens. I've got electric net and I love it.

 

[aart]

Feral house cats~

Domestic sized cats are not likely to attack full sized standard chickens.

 

[Kendc0]

I'm pretty sure I've given this information to you before, but just to make sure because I lose track of who has asked what questions before.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

That said ...,

Are you planning on using your tractor as a mobile coop where the chickens either get out to free range or have a portable pen? Or are you planning on the tractor being their only home?

If the former, 6x8 isn't *too* horribly huge for a tractor IF you put it on good wheels and have something to tow it with. Though you need to understand that the larger the tractor the more need to have a very smooth yard to put it on without having gaps underneath the sides where they contact the ground.

If the tractor is their only home, moved to fresh grass regularly but they don't get out you'll want more than the 4 square feet each.

People who want a mobile setup with layers sometimes build a coop on a trailer then use electric poultry netting for portable pens. I've got electric net and I love it.

Yes yes! I based my original scales to meet these requirements.

To answer your questions:
The tractor will be an all in one. It will be their coop and pen. I might be able to fence off an area in the future but for now, it must be all contained.
My yard is pretty level all things considered. There are several locations in which it can be moved within the yard

I had never heard of electric netting until now but am glad I looked it up. Do you find that your chickens try to get over it or after one zap do they leave well enough alone? We have hawks here (I see them pretty often) I take it this will do nothing against a hawk attack?

 

[3KillerBs]

...

I had never heard of electric netting until now but am glad I looked it up. Do you find that your chickens try to get over it or after one zap do they leave well enough alone? We have hawks here (I see them pretty often) I take it this will do nothing against a hawk attack?

I *thought* I'd talked to you about that before. But I figured it didn't hurt to repeat just in case.

Chickens *can* fly over the netting -- btw, I use the 48" Poultrynet Plus from Premier 1 -- but mostly they don't.

As a general rule, chickens prefer to fly up onto something solid then down on the other side. They don't *usually* go up and over.

I find that most of my escapees are Point-of-Lay pullet -- who seem to be driven to wander in search of nest sites. Thus I carry a pair of trauma shears in my tool apron and use it to clip wings when I catch someone outside the fence for the second time. By the time they've molted and grown new flight feathers they have mostly forgotten how to fly.

That said, my California White flies like a helicopter and goes out when she pleases. But I don't worry about her because she's the only bird who is smart enough to get back in. All the others pace around complaining that they're not with the others.

The other escapes are chicks under about 8-12 weeks old. They can slip through the netting and sometimes do unauthorized free-ranging. Sometimes I put up an inner curtain fence of cheap plastic netting to keep them in.

And yes, it does nothing against hawks. They're fairly abundant here, but I've only lost one. I have plenty of sheltered spots in the run where they can go to get out of sight.

IMO, for my situation and my purposes the tradeoff of getting a much larger run than I'd get for the same money spent on any other form of fencing is worth it. I'm willing to accept the tradeoff of occasionally losing one because I can give them so much more space to roam and forage.