Poop board experts!

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Also raises the humidity level in the coop, and that is especially bad in wintertime as it promotes frostbite. Not to mention that it might stink to high heaven.

Gerry
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Quote:
Also raises the humidity level in the coop, and that is especially bad in wintertime as it promotes frostbite. Not to mention that it might stink to high heaven.

Gerry
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One has to remember several things here. First, there must be adequate ventilation even in the dead of winter. If you experience elevated humidity issues in winter, or think you might, it can probably be attribuited to a coop that is shut up too tightly. This leads to more than frostbite, which is a tenuous worry. It leads to several respiratory induced ailments, most of which can cause reduced vigor but can also kill your birds outright.

Secondly, no manure collection scheme is free of maintenance. Whether you use dropping boards, pits or water baths, you have to do your due diligence to maintain them. It is my experienc, and that of Mr. Hartmann, that the water barrels DON'T stink. They dont attract fly's either, nor do they release toxic ammonia compounds into a too tight coop for the birds to breahe. The actually require less maintenance than the dropping boards under discussion.
This usually includes drainign them, flushing them with a light rinse and refilling.

A drawback is that you bring water into tht ecoop to do all this. I'd be more worried about spilled water than I would the barrels themselves. Its pertinent to know that these barrels were designed for chicken tractrors and other open bottom housing.
 
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They have plastic chickens and plastic eggs. But this one is rubber.

http://www.windycitynovelties.com/1...b|6917877798&gclid=COS2o4z2lqcCFRRg2godEWROdg

It will get dirty. I think at night, chickens grow hands just to sling s@#$%^& oh you know what I mean. If you think it will never get in here, that is where it will be.

That is why you should make them 24" deep and locate the roost 12" from wall. That way, 95% of the poop will be on the poop board each morning. The other 5% on the floor you just pick up some of that deep litter and drop on top of it. It will become dry before the day is over and no more odor. Key is to scrape the poop board daily.
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At least this has worked well for me for some 20 months now. Regards splatter
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, just ignore until annual coop cleanout and litter replacement. (This is why I did not paint the inside of my coop
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) Two double 48" fluorescent shop lights give me more than enough light for chores.

Gerry
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30" depth is more than enough to catch poop. I have 21 hens, and 4 poop boards. See 'My BYC Page' for details of interior, pop doors, run, electrification, etc.

Gerry
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Quote:
They have plastic chickens and plastic eggs. But this one is rubber.

http://www.windycitynovelties.com/1...b|6917877798&gclid=COS2o4z2lqcCFRRg2godEWROdg

It will get dirty. I think at night, chickens grow hands just to sling s@#$%^& oh you know what I mean. If you think it will never get in here, that is where it will be.

That is why you should make them 24" deep and locate the roost 12" from wall. That way, 95% of the poop will be on the poop board each morning. The other 5% on the floor you just pick up some of that deep litter and drop on top of it. It will become dry before the day is over and no more odor. Key is to scrape the poop board daily.
sickbyc.gif
At least this has worked well for me for some 20 months now. Regards splatter
sickbyc.gif
, just ignore until annual coop cleanout and litter replacement. (This is why I did not paint the inside of my coop
lol.png
) Two double 48" fluorescent shop lights give me more than enough light for chores.

Gerry
cool.png


My trays cover all thecoop floor
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