Love your dust-bath alcove in your pictures. Pros/cons of using DE - we ultimately chose not to use it in our dust-bath and my friend says it didn't deter lice in her flock:
Chickens have delicate respiratory systems/lungs so we do not use powdered dusts, Sevin, Pyrethrin (spelling?) and the dangerous warning labels on DE which has more than on a bottle of lye! After extensive research we decided that if DE was that dangerous to humans' lungs/eyes what must it be doing to littler chicken eyes/lungs/internal organs? We gave away our expensive bag of pure white food grade DE unopened.
For a spray-on organic OMRI product called "Poultry Protector" we use it once a month on hens and coop (directions on bottle) we have not had lice/mites/scaly leg in 3 years of chickeneering and just by using an organic product! Just wanted to pass that along because so many owners are not aware of the risks of powders around their precious flock - seasoned chickeneers are not too keen on DE. Many owners who use DE in their dust-bath say it works - know why? Because it's the earth and NOT the DE that's keeping the flock lice-free! That's how wild birds take lice baths - in the dirt!
Great to know! Thanks for the link. I have some of that poultry protector. I bought some last time I cleaned out the coop to spray as a precaution before I loaded it back up with bedding.
Great to know! Thanks for the link. I have some of that poultry protector. I bought some last time I cleaned out the coop to spray as a precaution before I loaded it back up with bedding.
Yes, the DE is a misnomer and it's use is spreading like wildfire by chickeneers who want the "best" for their girls but don't really do the research before using a product. I'm happy to help as I love chickens so much I want the best health maintenance for all of them - mine or others!
Poultry Protector is not cheap as it goes up about $1 per bottle every time I go to the feed store. We stock up a couple bottles at a time because it just WORKS and is organic! Amazing that an organic product works so well. Some ants got into a broken egg nestbox (poor Silkie layed a softshell). It was crawling with ants and a couple shots of Poultry Protector immobilized them enough that I could clean out the box straw without ants crawling up my arm!
Unfortunately for worming there is nothing organic/natural that works on the dreaded Gapeworm, Tapeworm, etc so we have to use Ivermectin equine paste. Some chickeneers use Wazine or other mixable wormers but some of my chickens eat/drink a lot and others not so much. So I like giving an exact wormer dosage to my girls. If you're interested in how to apply, where to apply, or how often, and the dosage PM me - it's easy and my vet lab report says my girls are worm-free 3 years in a row.
I have found that to be chicken dependent. I have a covered 4' community box attached to the outside wall of the coop and a 4' open (2 dividers) nest box in the coop. The community box was there first and all the girls used it. Then I put in the open box (doubles as support and insulation for the water nipples). 3 of the girls ALWAYS lay in the community box and ALWAYS on the same end even though 4 could lay at the same time if they wanted. The other 7 (and the 2 that are no longer with us) ALWAYS lay in the open boxes AND they have favorite boxes. A more dominant girl will force a lower one out. And it is not uncommon for the Cubalayas to shove in with another girl which is apparently OK since they are WAY smaller. Throwing their (small) weight around would be futile.
I guess that is true though the one thing I saw that I would say would make that VERY NICE coop nicer - flip the roosts so the girls have 3.5" to stand on rather than 1.5"
12x6 with 2 foot boxes so basically on a 12x8 platform. We're thinking 18-20 max. Potentially 9 boxes but not sure yet how we are dividing that up yet. Maybe less boxes and making them bigger.
As I posted above, it really doesn't matter what you do, they will use what you put in as they see fit. I think 2' is plenty wide, 2 birds can go in at once if they want to. Try it as it is and see if there is squabbling about birds not wanting to share. If that is the case, change the dividers so the boxes are maybe 12" wide. I *think* (but am not a chicken) they feel safer when they are surrounded by walls and possibly roof as well so if they aren't covered, any wider might make them feel less secure.
I'm all for getting some of the painting done first, ensures you get all surfaces. BUT, I think I would do only 2 coats prior to assembly so the 3rd coat can seal over the nails/screws
LOL!! I had the same question when I first got mine. I fretted and panicked thinking "my girls aren't getting their water!" ... but as I found out, the girls are way smarter than we give them credit for. The first thing I'd tell you is TAKE AWAY ALL OTHER WATERERS when you start using it. It's tough, but do it. When I first mine to use I 'clicked' the little stainless steel tips til a bit of water came out. At first nothing...nada....zip. But then one of them got curious by the clicking sound and when she put her beak to it that was IT! All the others came over out of curiosity. Trust me, THEY WILL USE THEM...BE PERSISTENT!!
Yep, do not worry AT ALL. In fact, one of my Anconas was pecking on the nipples before I even put water in the tank! I think it took all of 2 minutes for them to figure it out. You'll get water to the nipples, then 'tip' them to make sure they are working and not leaking. The girls will be taking notes and notice the water drips.
That OSB ramp is gonna get slippery as all get out
You might want to screw some "cleats" to it spaced about every 4 inches or so, and maybe paint it with a good outdoor paint with sand mixed into it for traction. Otherwise that OSB will swell and disintegrate.
Or, given the relatively low height off the ground and size of the bird in the picture, take the ramp out and put in an intermediate level landing spot. The girls can hop/fly to the mid point bar going either way, just make sure it is maybe a foot forward of the door (and put a 'landing' there) so it is easy for them to get up and down.
Bruce, I had my 7.5' x 12 dog kennel with 3 ' 2x4" wire. Topped with tin. Last night I lost one of my white rocks inside. Just one. Feathers around. I do have a 2" opening by the door. I'm going to have a wooden door installed soon. The top 3' is only kennel wire. Could it have come through that 3' high or just through the door. What's small enough to do that but only get one?
Don't know about the suggested weasel possibility since my understanding is they get on the bird's back and go for the neck, mostly just drinking the blood. Wouldn't be much in the way of feathers. But yeah, a weasel would find a 2x4 opening akin to an open garage door. Is it possible the bird might have been up against the fence? A coon will reach through and grab the bird, kill it but not get it out.
My only loss to a predator was outside ~30' from the door to the barn in the afternoon. Found only some feathers. Presume it was a fox or hawk.
Yes, the DE is a misnomer and it's use is spreading like wildfire by chickeneers who want the "best" for their girls but don't really do the research before using a product. I'm happy to help as I love chickens so much I want the best health maintenance for all of them - mine or others!
Poultry Protector is not cheap as it goes up about $1 per bottle every time I go to the feed store. We stock up a couple bottles at a time because it just WORKS and is organic! Amazing that an organic product works so well. Some ants got into a broken egg nestbox (poor Silkie layed a softshell). It was crawling with ants and a couple shots of Poultry Protector immobilized them enough that I could clean out the box straw without ants crawling up my arm!
Unfortunately for worming there is nothing organic/natural that works on the dreaded Gapeworm, Tapeworm, etc so we have to use Ivermectin equine paste. Some chickeneers use Wazine or other mixable wormers but some of my chickens eat/drink a lot and others not so much. So I like giving an exact wormer dosage to my girls. If you're interested in how to apply, where to apply, or how often, and the dosage PM me - it's easy and my vet lab report says my girls are worm-free 3 years in a row.
In the "Getting the flock out of here" thread by ozexpat there was a mention of some sort of nut or stone of a fruit which was used as a natural dewormer for chickens, you might be interested in checking that out. It was a fruit that grows in the Philippines, so I don't know how readily available it would be in the States, but might be worth some investigation.
Yes, the DE is a misnomer and it's use is spreading like wildfire by chickeneers who want the "best" for their girls but don't really do the research before using a product. I'm happy to help as I love chickens so much I want the best health maintenance for all of them - mine or others!
Poultry Protector is not cheap as it goes up about $1 per bottle every time I go to the feed store. We stock up a couple bottles at a time because it just WORKS and is organic! Amazing that an organic product works so well. Some ants got into a broken egg nestbox (poor Silkie layed a softshell). It was crawling with ants and a couple shots of Poultry Protector immobilized them enough that I could clean out the box straw without ants crawling up my arm!
Unfortunately for worming there is nothing organic/natural that works on the dreaded Gapeworm, Tapeworm, etc so we have to use Ivermectin equine paste. Some chickeneers use Wazine or other mixable wormers but some of my chickens eat/drink a lot and others not so much. So I like giving an exact wormer dosage to my girls. If you're interested in how to apply, where to apply, or how often, and the dosage PM me - it's easy and my vet lab report says my girls are worm-free 3 years in a row.
Was curious about the Poultry Protector so looked it up....interesting ingredients. It's made by MannaPro and approved organic by OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute).
By 'my vet lab report' do you mean you have fecal float exams done on your flock regularly?
In the "Getting the flock out of here" thread by ozexpat there was a mention of some sort of nut or stone of a fruit which was used as a natural dewormer for chickens, you might be interested in checking that out. It was a fruit that grows in the Philippines, so I don't know how readily available it would be in the States, but might be worth some investigation.
Most seeds/nut stones have arsenic in them. That is probably the element you're speaking about. Arsenic would definitely work on worms but I wouldn't give it internally to my hens. However, thanks for the input!
Was curious about the Poultry Protector so looked it up....interesting ingredients. It's made by MannaPro and approved organic by OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute).
By 'my vet lab report' do you mean you have fecal float exams done on your flock regularly?
Yes. If I haven't had a fecal done on one of my chickens while I'm at the vet office I ask for a sample kit. Not cheap but I'm in there for an office visit anyway so why not?
Was curious about the Poultry Protector so looked it up....interesting ingredients. It's made by MannaPro and approved organic by OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute).
This stuff has kept our coop/chickens lice/mite free for 3 years. Some people use certain herbs for protection but it's more time and bother than it's worth to me - I'm not an artsy/craftsy type person. The Poultry Protector saves time and saves the chickens' lungs from flying dust powder treatments, and what's more it WORKS without danger to me or the chickens.
Yes. If I haven't had a fecal done on one of my chickens while I'm at the vet office I ask for a sample kit. Not cheap but I'm in there for an office visit anyway so why not?
Can't say I think that is a normal thing for most of us backyard chicken owners. How often do the tests come back with 'problems' and which 'problems' are they?
