Pox? Mites?

[GrowingFarmish]

this lady is the worst. All of them are molting. 12 are “new” been here a month. 6 are ones I’ve had. All but 1 are not laying. Live in southwest Florida. It’s still pretty warm here so yes we have mosquitoes.

I’m pretty sure the previous owner filed their top beak down? All of his look like this. He was a bit of a hoarder in terms of animals so I wouldn’t be surprised if they’ve got various things.

I have pour on ivermectin I was planning to drop 2 or so drops on them this afternoon. And diatomaceous earth I plan to “spray” in the coop while they are in the run.

Poops are all over the place but seemingly normal range. Some runny, some not, nothing foamy or bloody or mucous-y.

Thoughts?

 

[GrowingFarmish]

I confirmed they do have some kind of small white mite. So definitely that, but that about the black spots? Could it be irritation from the mites? Maybe 1-3 show any signs like this but they are thin.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I have pour on ivermectin I was planning to drop 2 or so drops on them this afternoon. And diatomaceous earth I plan to “spray” in the coop while they are in the run.

Welcome to BYC!

DE is not effective in humid environments like mine, nor is it welcome here. I expect Florida is pretty humid?? Also a drop or two is NOT an accurate dosing regarding the ivermectin.

A far better choice (in MY opinion) would be to use a permethrin based "horse fly" and perimeter/stable spray.. A few small spritz to the birds (specific locations, not soaking), lay boxes, etc.. repeat it 10-14 days. (If permethrin is still effective in YOUR region). No egg withdrawal required.

The scabs I can see are definitely classic fowl pox.

Regarding if there might be mites, lice, etc.. how does the skin below the vent look.. light pink or angry red?

Only large round worm species may ever be seen in droppings, under heavy load. All others will stay in the intestines and only microscopic oocysts (eggs) will pass in dropping never to be seen by the naked eye.. and sometimes intermittently and therefor may not show up on a fecal float either. Knowing your personal load (stock density, wildlife pressure, soil type, weather conditions, etc) may help determine IF your birds should be on a regular worming (and/or mite) schedule.. I personally don't treat what I don't have.. but my veterinarian suggested worming (all my animals) once yearly despite negative float results, due to the factors mentioned earlier..

Looking at her toes.. there's some swelling at the joints.. do you know the age of the birds you have?

What is your feed routine including treats and supplements? Is my math correct that you have 18 birds and are getting one egg daily?

Some hatcheries sell their birds with beaks clipped.. that's what that looks like.. Hoarders.. don't have time to file stuff.. in my experience AS a hoarder.

My experience as an animal keeper says that animals which have access to the great outdoors may experience a multitude of "natural" things and is NOT indicative of poor keeping (per say).

I don;t agree with everything, but it's still a good write up for identification and consideration purposes..
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poult...mon signs,, ragged-looking feathers, crawling

Hope you get answers and they recover quickly!

 

[GrowingFarmish]

Welcome to BYC!

DE is not effective in humid environments like mine, nor is it welcome here. I expect Florida is pretty humid?? Also a drop or two is NOT an accurate dosing regarding the ivermectin.

A far better choice (in MY opinion) would be to use a permethrin based "horse fly" and perimeter/stable spray.. A few small spritz to the birds (specific locations, not soaking), lay boxes, etc.. repeat it 10-14 days. (If permethrin is still effective in YOUR region). No egg withdrawal required.

The scabs I can see are definitely classic fowl pox.

Regarding if there might be mites, lice, etc.. how does the skin below the vent look.. light pink or angry red?

Only large round worm species may ever be seen in droppings, under heavy load. All others will stay in the intestines and only microscopic oocysts (eggs) will pass in dropping never to be seen by the naked eye.. and sometimes intermittently and therefor may not show up on a fecal float either. Knowing your personal load (stock density, wildlife pressure, soil type, weather conditions, etc) may help determine IF your birds should be on a regular worming (and/or mite) schedule.. I personally don't treat what I don't have.. but my veterinarian suggested worming (all my animals) once yearly despite negative float results, due to the factors mentioned earlier..

Looking at her toes.. there's some swelling at the joints.. do you know the age of the birds you have?

What is your feed routine including treats and supplements? Is my math correct that you have 18 birds and are getting one egg daily?

Some hatcheries sell their birds with beaks clipped.. that's what that looks like.. Hoarders.. don't have time to file stuff.. in my experience AS a hoarder.

My experience as an animal keeper says that animals which have access to the great outdoors may experience a multitude of "natural" things and is NOT indicative of poor keeping (per say).

I don;t agree with everything, but it's still a good write up for identification and consideration purposes..
https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/#:~:text=Some of the common signs,, ragged-looking feathers, crawling

Hope you get answers and they recover quickly!

You’re right on the drops. I pulled up the ivermectin file on here (saw it linked somewhere) and it was ml per pound. So that’s what I’ll follow. Definitely saw a mite or flea of some sort so that’s a must treat.

Vent on the two girls I snagged to check were pinkish. I’m guessing worms are at play here too given how thin a couple are.

Don’t get me wrong, this wasn’t healthy free range hoarding.., these chick are ROUGH. Not just wild chicks. I also wasn’t meaning to offend in anyway—we have a LOT of animals so I can understand not having tons of time. I assumed file but clip makes more sense.

Correct on the 1 egg. Of my 6 original, they were all laying until last or so week and slowly have been stopping. I have 1 layer at the moment. BUT I can see their pin feathers so I know a moly is happening not just rough feathers. And as much as I would want to blame the loose feathers all over the place on a pecking order, none of them are bleeding or missing vast amounts of feathers in one area so I highly doubt that that’s what’s happening but it could be I’m just assuming it’s molting.

All 12 of the new ones I got within a month, none are laying, all look rough, all are molting, some have the black spots, all are supposed to be a year or so but given the molt I’m guessing he was off on that too and more like 18 months+. He said they haven’t been laying for him and blamed the molt.

Current feed is a mixture of a few chicken layer feeds— they guy gave us a bag of producers pride and we mixed that with knights chicken layer crumbles, they also get tons of Fruit and veggie scraps (more veggie than fruit) and sprouts (various mostly broccoli, buckwheat, wheat, pea, radish and alfalfa—just depends on what mix we sprouted). And obviously weeds. They are not free range as we have eagles and hawks. I read to give high protein items like cat food?

 

[GrowingFarmish]

Well, I think worms are also at play here… poor chickens.

 

[Eggcessive]

I agree that is pox, but can you examine the beak and the ear canal which may have an infection. Is the material on the beak nasal secretions or something else? Does it come off? Permethrin garden dust or the horse spray is good for lice. Treat now and again in 10 days to get the eggs that hatch. Bedding needs to be removed, and then treat coop, nests, and roosts with spray.

If that is the ear canal that is infected, it will need to be treated by removing the crust, applying hydrogen peroxide and cleaning with QTips. Then fill the ear canal with plain Neosporin ointment. Check it daily for treatment if needed. Otherwise do not disturb the pox scabs as it can spread the pox virus. It would not hurt to use a little antibiotic ointment in the eye that has scabs around it.