Resident Raccoon

Its not really a vulnerability if you have it locked. Its a vulnerability to people like me who close up everything at sundown beat tired and forgetful. You should be fine but that is a common entrance point for Raccoons but you should be fine. I have 2 coops (out of about 15) that I made egg doors and I forgot to lock them a couple of times and now they stay locked full-time. I reach in the long hard way to retrieve eggs. Never had an attack come through them because I was lucky.
 
I learned my lesson about raccoons- we either use a live cage trap then dispatch them, or you can purchase the "dog-proof" traps in which they get their paw stuck (then dispatch). We carry a .22 rifle for nuisance control. I love wildlife, but my egg producers always have come first. I also do it for the safety of our dogs.
 
I have to confess... I'm a live-and-let-live type. Part of the reason I live here is to be surrounded with wildlife. My run is 15' from a creek, a wildlife highway as we call it, so it's impossible to not get all manners of wild animals passing by.

My in-laws saw a family of coons looking into the run one early morning, and I've found tufts of fur on the run wire, but that's as far as our "interaction" has gone with local coons. My run is not coon proof (it has netting on top instead of wire) but the coop should be.

Replace that netting! Tufts on the fence mean they've investigated very closely ... too closely for comfort. Coons are not just nighttime predators. They will hunt during the daytime, too, so a safe run is a must.

Coons are VERY smart. I firmly believe that coon-proof enclosures are a myth. Coon-resistant is more the reality, In even the best of situations, human error can eventually allow them access, which is why constant diligence is the order of the day ... every day ... as well as the night.
 
Replace that netting! Tufts on the fence mean they've investigated very closely ... too closely for comfort. Coons are not just nighttime predators. They will hunt during the daytime, too, so a safe run is a must.

Because of the way my run is built there's no way to add a solid wire top without adding/changing out parts of the fence itself (it's chain link with hardware cloth apron and up a few feet). Of course I know that isn't predator proof, but it's at least some degree of protection, especially against aerial predators which are our main concern. The coop should be good though, unless the local bear comes.

Sometimes all you can do is assess the risks and do what you can. If I ever move or redo the run I'd probably go even larger and taller and more secure throughout.
 
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Because of the way my run is built there's no way to add a solid wire top without adding/changing out parts of the fence itself (it's chain link with hardware cloth apron and up a few feet). Of course I know that isn't predator proof, but it's at least some degree of protection, especially against aerial predators which are our main concern. The coop should be good though, unless the local bear comes.

Sometimes all you can do is assess the risks and do what you can. If I ever move or redo the run I'd probably go even larger and taller and more secure throughout.

:) We'd ALL like to go larger and taller ... 'cuz more is better, right? I had to do a serious downsizing this fall, because I can't go "larger and taller," yet. I hate Chicken Math! :)
 
:) We'd ALL like to go larger and taller ... 'cuz more is better, right? I had to do a serious downsizing this fall, because I can't go "larger and taller," yet. I hate Chicken Math! :)

My biggest mistake was going 6' for the taller part of the run, and 4' for the lower. Well, husband is over 6'. The problem is obvious! :) Even installing the netting was an issue, as I needed to give him head clearance, which meant adding nearly 3' in support over the low sections.

If there's a next time I'm definitely going with 8' height.
 
just caught a raccoon yesterday, the temps have been so warm this year there coming out again. but .22 cb short worked great. and very little noise.
 
My biggest mistake was going 6' for the taller part of the run, and 4' for the lower. Well, husband is over 6'. The problem is obvious! :) Even installing the netting was an issue, as I needed to give him head clearance, which meant adding nearly 3' in support over the low sections.

If there's a next time I'm definitely going with 8' height.
My daughter is dating a fellow who is 6'5". Maybe I'll remind her about adjusting coop and run heights. She's so die-hard critter-minded that his willingness (or not) to make the repairs and adjustments may be a deal breaker! :D
 
My biggest mistake was going 6' for the taller part of the run, and 4' for the lower. Well, husband is over 6'. The problem is obvious!

My daughter is dating a fellow who is 6'5". Maybe I'll remind her about adjusting coop and run heights. She's so die-hard critter-minded that his willingness (or not) to make the repairs and adjustments may be a deal breaker!

I'm in the same boat because my other half is 6'3" -- except he designed and built the coop. I thought he was nuts making it so tall but it has been important for him to be able to move around in there (even though I do almost all of the chicken chores). When you need another set of hands, it certainly helps that the body attached to them can fit in!
 

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