Rooster is being a jerk

[Kessel23]

The only time I ever got a rooster to stop being aggressive to me was a few years ago. I had a brown leghorn roo and he started attacking people, every time he attacked me I would try to kick him, he would usually just duck and I would end up hurting my leg but one time I nailed him and he went flying. I knocked the wind out of him and honestly thought he was dead, he survived and never attacked me again but would still go after every other person he saw. Once a rooster sees people as part of the pecking order there is no way to make him unsee it, he will attack any human he sees.

 

[N Sully]

Just pick a method and do it. I use a broomstick and it’s over fast. Whatever way you chose, just research so you understand exactly how to preform the task and not cause unnecessarily pain or stress to the bird or you. If you are going to eat him you might check on the meat side of BYC for instructions you need to properly prepare the birds like withholding food (not water) for 12 hours to empty the crop. When they have to go, waiting around and putting it off is not helpful. Afterwards it’s a relief that you got something done and it’s over with. There are a lot of methods and if your not planning on eating him then maybe get a vet to do it.

 

[ChxLadyCass]

Just pick a method and do it. I use a broomstick and it’s over fast. Whatever way you chose, just research so you understand exactly how to preform the task and not cause unnecessarily pain or stress to the bird or you. If you are going to eat him you might check on the meat side of BYC for instructions you need to properly prepare the birds like withholding food (not water) for 12 hours to empty the crop. When they have to go, waiting around and putting it off is not helpful. Afterwards it’s a relief that you got something done and it’s over with. There are a lot of methods and if your not planning on eating him then maybe get a vet to do it.

Thank you! I will do some research! Beautiful GSD by the way!!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Afterwards it’s a relief that you got something done and it’s over with.

Words so true.

I find openly talking with my family about so we all understand what is going to happen. Discussing the ways we or won't attempt and why. And watching A LOT of videos.

It's NEVER an easy choice. But we do all have to eat. And for those of us who do eat meat... knowing how our food was raised and treated right until the very last moment is SOOO comforting compared to any chicken (or other) factory videos that will have you appalled at ever buying supermarket chicken again!

I use the cone method with a (free) bleach bottle cut into a funnel screwed to the wall with a lined trash bag underneath. My daughter and I do it. We only withhold feed AND water over night... which they are sleeping anyways so it doesn't count. It helps to clear the crop and intestines, but usually not completely. We know we aren't approaching in anger or hate. It's kinda somber, but we do also mess around a bit to lighten the mood. It's a terrible job like cleaning the toilet. If you can find someone who will do it for you... I pay $5 a head and it's WORTH it. But before finding them we did learn how to do this. And having the skill to dispatch a bird who might otherwise have an injury or be suffering in some way... is something I am so thankful to have. No doubt a bird we really like will have issues one day and there may not be someone else to help.

Please note that out first cull went terrible! Chicken necks don't just spray arterial blood everywhere with a quick slit like the movies. It took practice to get right. Now it's a skill I am confident with.

Yes we have popped bile ducts and nicked intestines. You deal with it and move forward. Experience is the mother of ALL teachers. All the videos and pointers won't get ya there... but they can at least get your mind ready. And you know these "older" gals you have won't suffer the side effects of declining slowly from old age and possibly inviting more pests or disease to live among your flock. So keeping the flock strong is a GOOD goal.

IF for some reason you decide it just isn't for you... no shame in letting them feed someone else's family.

Good luck!

 

[N Sully]

@ChxLadyCass Thank you! He is working bred and a handful at times.

This is a link to the video I watched on using a broom stick. The place she does it has a slight divot in the ground so the stick is not chocking the bird when she steps on it if that makes any sense. I also saw an article by a vet using the same idea of dislocating the neck, but while you hold them. I think that would be even better but have not yet tried it. Good luck.

 

[N Sully]

@EggSighted4Life where do you cut on the neck. After using the stick, I put them in a cone and “try” to cut the jugular to drain any blood I can. Rooster feathers are tough to get through. The videos I have watched show young meat birds that make it look easy, they just give a poke or whatever and it works. I have a hard time finding the right spot and getting through the feathers! Any videos you could recommend?

 

[Saaniya]

I've 2 roosters i own them on when they 1 day old .
They're like my kids
But one thing I love about them is they are roosters and I've been reading entire BYC rooster hurt ppl .

But if u meet my rooster they will don't hurt u at all even they will come to greet u Jump on ur lap ..they fight with each other but never hurt us or anyone

 

[2 many chickens]

Sounds like my roosters. on a daily basis we are attacked. We have them fenced in a pasture since the fox attack. We are trying to work with him.. of course with the kids on the other side of the fence. Husband got attacked by him yesterday, caught him in a net and carried him around for 15 mins. He didn't do anything after that. We are going to keep trying with them. I've smacked his ass with a switch before but he kept coming... jumped as high as my waist.. so that doesn't work. Basically, if you want to try, try but it doesn't seem like you can change an asshole rooster like we have.
My rooster is insane.. I'm sure if I cut his head off he'd still try to attack me.

 

[Mrs. K]

@ 2 many chickens - cull him. No one deserves to be attacked for feeding and caring for a bird. They tend to attack children, women and men in that order. If he is attacking your husband, he is not going to quit. Your flock will be much happier without him. An attacking rooster is alarming to the flock, that keeps them in a high stress level, and often times that reduces egg production. Always solve for the peace of the flock, a peaceful flock is the most fun.
Mrs K

 

[bobbi-j]

Any tips on making the culling process easier? I haven't had the guts to do it yet, but have some fatty hens also just eating all my feed, dominating the pecking order and past the point of egg laying years. I am just not confident that I can pull the trigger or raise the axe haha. How do people get desensitized to it? Just go for it?

Even though we get cockerels specifically to raise up and eat, it's still not "easy" for me. When we process, we use the hatchet and stump method (and by "we" I mean DH) because it's fast and the chicken is dead within seconds. They never know what happened. I catch them, hand them off to DH, he whacks them, it's done. Less than a minute. I do not feel confident or coordinated enough to use the hatchet myself. If I am in a position to have to kill a chicken myself, I will use a killing cone and something very sharp - knife, or maybe tree lopper - to decapitate a chicken. I have seen the broomstick method, and again - I just don't feel comfortable trying it for myself. Those who can do it effectively swear by it. I don't know if you've eaten your own chickens yet, but if not you need to know they are not like the ones you buy at the grocery store. They have more texture and flavor than a grocery store chicken. Your birds will need to cook longer - low and slow. Definitely not pan fryers or for grilling. I pressure cook mine if doing one at a time. I also pressure can them when I have several to do. I love having canned chicken on hand! It's a little time consuming, but well worth the effort. I think your rooster needs to go. There is no need to keep a human aggressive rooster around.

Sounds like my roosters. on a daily basis we are attacked. We have them fenced in a pasture since the fox attack. We are trying to work with him.. of course with the kids on the other side of the fence. Husband got attacked by him yesterday, caught him in a net and carried him around for 15 mins. He didn't do anything after that. We are going to keep trying with them. I've smacked his ass with a switch before but he kept coming... jumped as high as my waist.. so that doesn't work. Basically, if you want to try, try but it doesn't seem like you can change an asshole rooster like we have.
My rooster is insane.. I'm sure if I cut his head off he'd still try to attack me.

I'm not sure why you want to keep this rooster around, but if you want to try to rehab him, here is a post by member Beekissed on taming aggressive birds.
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

When she says to give him a "whack" it does not mean to beat him senseless, or to cause him pain. It just means smack him enough to get his attention. Startle him, but do not hurt him. Your kids would need to understand this. If you really, really want to keep your rooster (although I still don't understand why...) this might be your best shot.

You, your husband and kids will all have to try it, but if your kids are quite young I don't know if they're ready. Personally, I'd be getting rid of a rooster that attacks me every day, and for sure if he was attacking kids. Think about where those spurs are when he's coming at you. A lot of times at eye level to a child.