Rooster is being a jerk

I really do not approve of the put in the cone and slit the throat method which seems to be the most popular. I think the cone way puts them through a lot of trauma, I mean you are shoving them upside down into a cone and then pulling out their head through a tiny hole and slitting their neck which is definitely not a instant kill.
Reference following post..
but they are my birds, not yours sooooo it is up to me :D
Just being silly, using your own statement. :p

My dad would also tolerate mean roosters, they would attack me when I was a kid and I would just bring a stick with me to beat them up when they did. I know it seems weird to keep them around but they are my birds, not yours sooooo it is up to me :D
SOME... MIGHT... call that ABUSE... :(

Chickens are surprisingly calm when upside down! :eek: It's clear you haven't tried it.

NOT so if I try to hold them down with their wings flapping and such. And please note If I miss with the ax it won't be an instant kill either. And a trip to the hospital if I take a leg off... or even a finger is quite costly. :hmm

It isn't JUST about the trauma to the bird... but to the dispatcher as well. We ALL do what we think works best for US. And hopefully stay open to learning and maybe trying other ways. A friend of mine uses chloroform to knock her birds out first and then cones them. In addition... I HAVE sustained cuts... they aren't that bad and by the time the "pain" registers the bird IS dead. Their fear for their life in a cone is no different than an ax... as far as I can tell.

Couple links that might help OP...
http://www.poultryindustrycouncil.c...delines-for-On-Farm-Euthanasia-of-Poultry.pdf

http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2017/02/how-to-humanely-euthanize-chicken-by-dr/
 
If you are somewhat experienced with using an axe you won't miss, you would have to be a complete dummy to hit yourself with the axe... If you know how to hold a chicken properly you can avoid making them flap. Also, slitting the throat kills them by bleeding them out, that takes way longer than just cutting their heads off. How long do you think it takes pain to register? If your answer is over 10 seconds then I guess this statement would be correct "they aren't that bad and by the time the "pain" registers the bird IS dead." Slitting the jugular is not an instant kill and insures plenty enough time for the bird to register pain.

Ok so if a chicken attacks me and I fight back it is ABUSE? Well, I will tell that to assault victims who dared to ABUSE their attacker by fighting back, HOW DARE THEY! And it is not like I was enforcing the axe method on the OP, I said that I did not approve of the cone method :lol: You clearly do not approve of the axe method so calm down :plbb I say that the cone puts the bird through trauma, and you come back and say that the axe method is dangerous to people, I mean do you think 6 year olds are going to use it jeez. Also, yes I have tried the cone method why do you think I disapprove of it so much? :tongue
 
Also, this argument is over, don't bother to reply I will not read or respond, i'm done arguing. I came here to give my opinion on the topic, not get dragged into an argument so bye, :frow:bun
 
My previous rooster was harmless as well! I honestly believe that the dog antagonizing him has flipped the switch for this little guy to be aggressive. It's a bummer too! He was the friendliest roo I had!



Yes u can say something makes him aggressive u must check out before u decide to cull him
 
Also, this argument is over, don't bother to reply I will not read or respond, i'm done arguing. I came here to give my opinion on the topic, not get dragged into an argument so bye, :frow:bun

Guess I must not be in a bad or over reactive mood. :confused:

Nothing to fight or argue about here! Didn't mean to make you feel that way, sorry. :oops:

Love the dancing rabbit too, it's like a party! :bun

you would have to be a complete dummy to hit yourself with the axe
:frow That's me... as accident prone as can be! :(

It sounded like abuse to me that your dad wouldn't get rid of the roosters... not that you fought back... sorry.

Hope there are no hard feelings... I love BYC, ALL of us being able to share our experiences, and being a part of a FRIENDLY and SAFE learning community.

Seriously, when I read the part that said
so calm down :plbb
It had me rollin' in laughter... to have somebody stick their "silly" tongue out at me! :lau

I'm NOT about drama... and do NOT wish to make anyone else experience it on my account. :smack
 
I am in the slit the throat camp. Sometime I use a cone, sometimes I just do it. I use a razor blade and change it frequently. In my own experience, often times with a very sharp blade, one does not even know they were cut. What I see happens, is the bird just gets very tired.

The reason I do use the blade, is that I alone handle the dispatch, I am a woman, and holding the bird, the ax, and getting it done can be a lot to handle. The blade is just easier for me, and really I see no evidence of trauma. If one cuts their heads off, one still will get the death throws. Hence the expression "running like a chicken with a head cut off".

Each of us needs to make a personal choice that we can handle. Some ways will work better for us and our birds. One does not need to change anyones' mind or choices, they are your birds. Do the best you can.

Mrs K
 
Even though we get cockerels specifically to raise up and eat, it's still not "easy" for me. When we process, we use the hatchet and stump method (and by "we" I mean DH) because it's fast and the chicken is dead within seconds. They never know what happened. I catch them, hand them off to DH, he whacks them, it's done. Less than a minute. I do not feel confident or coordinated enough to use the hatchet myself. If I am in a position to have to kill a chicken myself, I will use a killing cone and something very sharp - knife, or maybe tree lopper - to decapitate a chicken. I have seen the broomstick method, and again - I just don't feel comfortable trying it for myself. Those who can do it effectively swear by it. I don't know if you've eaten your own chickens yet, but if not you need to know they are not like the ones you buy at the grocery store. They have more texture and flavor than a grocery store chicken. Your birds will need to cook longer - low and slow. Definitely not pan fryers or for grilling. I pressure cook mine if doing one at a time. I also pressure can them when I have several to do. I love having canned chicken on hand! It's a little time consuming, but well worth the effort. I think your rooster needs to go. There is no need to keep a human aggressive rooster around.


I'm not sure why you want to keep this rooster around, but if you want to try to rehab him, here is a post by member Beekissed on taming aggressive birds.
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.


When she says to give him a "whack" it does not mean to beat him senseless, or to cause him pain. It just means smack him enough to get his attention. Startle him, but do not hurt him. Your kids would need to understand this. If you really, really want to keep your rooster (although I still don't understand why...) this might be your best shot.

You, your husband and kids will all have to try it, but if your kids are quite young I don't know if they're ready. Personally, I'd be getting rid of a rooster that attacks me every day, and for sure if he was attacking kids. Think about where those spurs are when he's coming at you. A lot of times at eye level to a child.

This rooster behavior advice is top notch. You DO need to have the "i'm the boss here" attitude. I have a few roos in my chick brooder ( straight from the hatch this time) now and my instinct somehow felt not to coddle them too much. Roos don't love you once their hormones kick in, and I feel like once they become big boys, "this lady is so nice" means "this lady is my hen."

The best roo I have, I barely interacted with as a chick. He came with a group that I was too busy to be hands on with, so they grew up very hands-off. The hens of that group don't get close to me for anything, but that rooster is sweet, docile, and watchful. I can get close enough to stroke his back once and then he skitters off to his ladies.

Bottom line I think is hens are great to cuddle and love, I have quite a few that are happy to be picked up and adored. As pretty and colorful and soft as roosters are, they're best left alone.
 
Oh and to add to the kill convo, we do gunshot kills. My husband takes them into a field where he lets them forage for a few minutes. They're calm and don't know what's coming. This is for culling a single bird we love, not processing multiples. There are a quick few seconds of stillness, during that time we get the bird into a garbage bag as it will flail or even hop up and walk around. We have not found a no-flail method besides ether/freezer euthanasia and that is both time consuming and ruins the carcass. I think nature wants us to take the taking of a life seriously, so you either get the flail which is a bit heartbreaking, or you have to do a sincere euthanasia which is involved and wastes the carcass.
 

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