Rooster is hurting hens -- advice?

[christwodog]

Some roosters are more aggressive than others, they tone it down as they age. I have a 4 year old RIR rooster who won't mount a hen unless she squats for him, he usually dances around for a bit then the hen squats and he mounts. He also won't mate with young hens. This is the attitude I look for in roosters.

What a good rooster! Mine will not mate them until they have started laying, but he is too much for only a few hens. I'm getting more next month, but they won't be laying age for 5-6 months so he is going to have to "bach" it for awhile. Cold shower, buddy....

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

Yesterday I brought home four pullets to live with my formerly solo rooster, named Jamal. Jamal is almost five months old, and all of the pullets are four months old, and they are mostly of similar size, minus the Ameraucana who is a good bit smaller than Jamal.

I expected him to immediately start mating the pullets like crazy. He's a teenager, obviously full of raging hormones, I get it. He seems to be taking it a little too far, and the pullets are terrified and injured.

I brought them home yesterday afternoon. They got on the roosting poles and stayed there, with Jamal pacing the ground underneath them. Every time they tried to jump down, he'd immediately jump on them and they'd scream bloody murder. I left them alone and figured he'd work it out of his system or the pullets would get used to him.

They co-existed through the night and shared the roosts. This morning, I went out to see them before I went to work. The four pullets were still on the roosts, and Jamal was pacing the ground underneath them. I saw no new poop anywhere else in the coop and the girls' crops were empty, which I thought was odd since this was around 11AM and they should have eaten by then.

After I got home from work I went out again. The pullets were still on the pole and they still had not eaten. Jamal was still pacing beneath them. I put them on the ground myself and stood by so that maybe they'd eat and I would keep Jamal at bay if needed. He jumped back on them, one after the other, and I could barely kick him away long enough to help anyone. He's made nearly bald spots on all four, their combs are bleeding, two of them have cuts on their feet from him mounting them, and one of them has what looked like a gash on her back, but she wouldn't let me see it.

I've been raising chickens for six years and have had roosters the entire time, and I've never seen anything like this. I know roosters get excited over new girls, and I know teenage roosters are a little excessive, but they're so scared of him they're not eating. They were already skin and bones when I got them yesterday and it's serious enough that they could die if they can't gain some weight.

I removed Jamal and put him in a dog crate nearby. As soon as I did, they started eating like crazy.

I know this is only day two of this new flock, but so far it's going horribly. What am I supposed to do here? Let them sort it out? Or will the hens starve/continue to get hurt? I do not believe in killing my own roosters, so am I looking at re-homing as an option?

I think they will settle in once they learn the layout of your barn/coop. I would definitely keep jamal separate until he calms down. My rooster is acting similarly, but he's older a tad being a 6 month Australorp. He pulls the girls feathers on the back and back of their head. They scream so loud my other rooster runs over to see what's happening. It may be breeding. I've noted that my young rooster does this when my older rooster who's is a 9 mth old BO old has never once done this. The rooster previous was a PBR and also never acted like this with my hens.

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

I agree, keep him separate from the girls. I have learned from others' posts, that the hen to rooster ratio is 10 hens per 1 rooster or close to that. Even when they reach laying/mating age, I don't think four hens is enough for him, they will most likely get overmated. I had five hens to one rooster and had to eventually separate them. The hens became very fearful of him, to the point of hiding in nest boxes and not eating, like your hens.

I do agree with bit about over breeding, but my old PBR had 8 hens and only mated with 2. He liked these two so much they lost the feathers on their back. He never mated with the other hens. Maybe my rooster was weird, but he had preferences lol.

 

[keesmom]

You win the thread.



I rushed them into the coop with him because he was starting to turn human-aggressive from being alone. He was born into my bantam flock, and he is a full-sized bird. He very quickly got big enough that when he mated the bantam hens, he was crushing them, so he had to be removed. That was about three weeks ago. He lived alone during that time and he was very quickly getting aggressive. I had this happen with another rooster in the past and I believe, from my experience, that not having hens around makes a rooster meaner. But I don't know, maybe that's not true for everyone.

He does not have spurs yet. I'll be removing him during the day and put him in a dog crate beside the coop.

On top of being abusive to the pullets he's human aggressive? Keeping a cockerel or mature male away from hens does not make him mean. Many keep grow out pens for juvenile males without any showing human aggressive behavior.

Usually chicks that grow up in a flock with mature hens and roosters have good flock manners. Yours missed that lesson for some reason.

It's possible he may act better with the pullets with enough time (I expect months). Ir's also possible his human aggression will get worse when the thinks he has females to protect.

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

My young Australorp roo raised his hackle feathers at me once. He was 4 months old at the time. I was already nervous because of course after I bought him everyone said they were always aggressive. Well I picked him up and carried him around petting him telling him too bad. I read somewhere that this can work with some roosters to curb aggressive behavior towards their human. So far he has been an angel toward me and never did it again, but he is still not fully mature yet.. obviously I would not suggest going around picking up grown roosters with spurs for anyone reading that's new to roosters.

Since you said your rooster has no spurs you could try it if you want, if he is to the point where he is flogging you I would reconsider him all together.

 

[lazy gardener]

On top of being abusive to the pullets he's human aggressive? Keeping a cockerel or mature male away from hens does not make him mean. Many keep grow out pens for juvenile males without any showing human aggressive behavior.

Usually chicks that grow up in a flock with mature hens and roosters have good flock manners. Yours missed that lesson for some reason.

It's possible he may act better with the pullets with enough time (I expect months). Ir's also possible his human aggression will get worse when the thinks he has females to protect.

Agreed with Keesmom on this one. A human aggressive cockerel would never be allowed to stay on as a flock member. And keeping a cockerel alone will not make him meaner. Last fall, I had 2 Buck Eye cockerels. I put one in the flock, but held the other back in a grow out coop by himself, just in case my first pick did not work out. The #2 man was obviously very lonely. When ever I went to tend him or visit him, he'd get all excited. He'd start tidbitting and dancing. I take these behaviors when demonstrated towards a human as pre-aggressive tendencies. But, I think this poor boy was just bored out of his wits and delighted to have any company from any species! He never raised hackles, never demonstrated any sort of human aggression.

I will not tolerate a cockerel who is aggressive toward females. But, if I have a young cockerel who is coming of age, and toys with the idea of "taking on" the human, I will give him an opportunity to mend his ways. If dominance training is effective, he will get an opportunity to join the flock. But, if a couple weeks of training do not curb his behaviors, he is invited to a crock pot dinner.

@Beekissed has many years of poultry experience, and has always given me advice which is spot on. Here's her take on cockerel manners:

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

 

[red horse ranch]

If he is that rough with the girls now it's not likely to get any better. He should be wooing the girls before he even tries to mate. If a rooster isn't a gentleman then he will not stay with my girls. He'll be in the freezer!

 

[Chelsa'sChicks]

Agreed with Keesmom on this one. A human aggressive cockerel would never be allowed to stay on as a flock member. And keeping a cockerel alone will not make him meaner. Last fall, I had 2 Buck Eye cockerels. I put one in the flock, but held the other back in a grow out coop by himself, just in case my first pick did not work out. The #2 man was obviously very lonely. When ever I went to tend him or visit him, he'd get all excited. He'd start tidbitting and dancing. I take these behaviors when demonstrated towards a human as pre-aggressive tendencies. But, I think this poor boy was just bored out of his wits and delighted to have any company from any species! He never raised hackles, never demonstrated any sort of human aggression.

I will not tolerate a cockerel who is aggressive toward females. But, if I have a young cockerel who is coming of age, and toys with the idea of "taking on" the human, I will give him an opportunity to mend his ways. If dominance training is effective, he will get an opportunity to join the flock. But, if a couple weeks of training do not curb his behaviors, he is invited to a crock pot dinner.

@Beekissed has many years of poultry experience, and has always given me advice which is spot on. Here's her take on cockerel manners:

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Well I wasn't suggesting to carry him around like a baby.. and it did work for my rooster so maybe you should tell him his "rooster speak" is wrong since some people here seem to know more the he does.
My roosters also crow around me all the time. They are not aggressive with or toward me or children at all.. ever. They are roosters and they crow. I think someone diving a little too deep with this one..

 

[lazy gardener]

Thank you for your opinion.

 

[Sublight]

I rushed them into the coop with him because he was starting to turn human-aggressive from being alone. .....

Manfighters need to share some time beside a dumpling.
Once a manfighter, always a manfighter in my opinion.