Shadrach's Ex Battery and Rescued chickens thread.

Hi folks, I'm in need of some guidance from the experienced rooster keepers here. Lucio, my seven month old cockerel is growing up. He's quite a large and powerful looking bird already -- and I'm a pretty small human -- and I want to approach handling him in a way that doesn't scare the bejeezus out of him and make him avoid me. I handled him a few times when he was younger, and even treated him for a impacted crop brought on by eating a very big lizard, but it's been a few months since I last picked him up and held him.

It is important that I'm able to handle him regularly. It's getting to be sticktight flea season here and these nasties will be around for the next 2 months. They are awful critters that actually burrow in and "stick" to their combs, wattles, and faces, sucking blood. I need to be able to check and treat when needed.

We have quite a good relationship so far. I do the things the rooster killers warn about not doing and he doesn't seem to mind at all. I squat down next to him "on his level" and he just regards me curiously for a few moments and walks away. He doesn't "herd shuffle" me or attempt to fly up to get at the feed bowl. He tried that once and (as @Shadrach recommends) I caught him quickly under the belly with my palm and tossed him away. He never did that again, and to be fair, I probably wasn't quick enough that day at giving him "first peck" with the little chicks underfoot and all. He has never shown any of the terrifying rooster tendencies I've read about and while he is sometimes ornery with the mama hens who won't squat for him, he seems to respect me.

For the past few days, I've been encouraging him to come close to me, practicing the "closed fist" approach. He comes close enough to eat from my hand, but still in a darting, wary way. I'll keep doing this until he's more relaxed.

I guess at some point I'm just gonna have to make a grab for him and there will probably be some struggle the first time.

What's the best way to do this? To make a grab and hope for the best? Or should I wait until he roosts at night? I'm not afraid of him at all. I'm more concerned about him becoming afraid of me and undoing the work I've done so far. With these sticktight fleas around, I need him to comfortable being picked up, checked, and treated.

This is my first time caring for a cockerel from hatch to roosterhood and I want to do a good job.

Thank you
@Shadrach
@Perris
@GregnLety

View attachment 3545247
View attachment 3545248
^that white stuff on his head is dried plain yogurt. Don't ask me why he stuck his head in the bowl...

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It's not an easy problem.
The old school writers and keepers I have a great deal of respect for recommend learning to handle the chickens., both male and female. The reasoning behind this is one should inspect the chickens one keeps as basic good animal husbandry. If one can't inspect them then one doesn't know if they have problems until they show obvious signs of ill health and often this is too late to take remedial action.
The vast majority of chickens (don't bother making a post about how much your chickens love you and adore being picked up. Any creature that likes being picked up by it's number one predator isn't right in the head :rolleyes:) don't like being handled. Some are more tolerant of it than others.

The ideal in my opinion is to be able to do the basic checks (vent, back of neck and under wings) without taking the chicken off the ground and this approach has worked best for me with both males and females. You may have noticed pictures of me doing this on this thread and others.

What chickens particulalry dislike is having their wings immobilized. So learning to pick chickens up by getting them to stand on your hand with their wings free until such time one needs to constrain them is worth learning. I think MJ and a couple of others have found this usefull when taking chickens off roost bars. It works for me and many others. I put the allotment chickens in the coop at night using this technique.

Chickens inspect and groom other chickens and this is always done on the ground or on a roost bar. I introduced waiting roost bars as I call them with the tribes for the more standoffish tribe members on the advice of a Catalan chicken keeping friend.

Here is one example.
1687018116862.png

At roost time the chickens wait on the outside woodwork for their turn to enter the coop and while they are there it gives the keeper an ideal opportunity to have a look at legs feet and the underside. I have a roost bar outside the allotment coop and as you will have seen, the chickens get on this before going into the coop, with or without my encouragement.

For the novice to chicken inspections, getting the chicken off the roost bar at night is favourite. You'll need a good headtorch. They tend to stay in one place, especially if it's high off the ground (coop roofs work well if you have the right sort of coop).

For keepers with large walk in coops, inspection in the coop is easiest. The chickens aren't carried off to somewhere strange and in general stay calm.

With males, I've done handling them when young which they get used to and handling them as little as possible. I haven't noticed one way or the other leads to aggressive behaviour. What I did get were lifelong friends with those I handled a lot which can be as bigger problem as being standoffish.

The important thing is one must be able to inspect the chickens. I do a basic inspection daily on one or more at the allotments. I used to do a couple a week from each tribe in Catalonia and at the farm in Hertfordshire we did batch inspections daily but it was alot less considerate than the practice I have now due to the numbers involved.

I can't stress enough how imporatn it is to do these inspections; crop and vent checks and at least one body area every day if one can. Along with these a white tissue wipe along the underside of the roost bars in the coop every few days can and will save a lot of small problems turning into a major crisis.
 
Thanks.
Is this the house you lived in yourself in Catalonia?
How long did it take to build?
It is.

The basic shell took six weeks. I did something really stupid at close to the end of the six weeks and went and had a heart attack.:rolleyes: I got tossed by a ram and landed badly and according to the doctors this dislodged some internal scar tissue from one of the many breakages I've had in the past and that clotted one of my arteries.
Naturally I was somewhat slower when I got out of hospital and I completed the work in September.
 
It's not an easy problem.
The old school writers and keepers I have a great deal of respect for recommend learning to handle the chickens., both male and female. The reasoning behind this is one should inspect the chickens one keeps as basic good animal husbandry. If one can't inspect them then one doesn't know if they have problems until they show obvious signs of ill health and often this is too late to take remedial action.
The vast majority of chickens (don't bother making a post about how much your chickens love you and adore being picked up. Any creature that likes being picked up by it's number one predator isn't right in the head :rolleyes:) don't like being handled. Some are more tolerant of it than others.

The ideal in my opinion is to be able to do the basic checks (vent, back of neck and under wings) without taking the chicken off the ground and this approach has worked best for me with both males and females. You may have noticed pictures of me doing this on this thread and others.

What chickens particulalry dislike is having their wings immobilized. So learning to pick chickens up by getting them to stand on your hand with their wings free until such time one needs to constrain them is worth learning. I think MJ and a couple of others have found this usefull when taking chickens off roost bars. It works for me and many others. I put the allotment chickens in the coop at night using this technique.

Chickens inspect and groom other chickens and this is always done on the ground or on a roost bar. I introduced waiting roost bars as I call them with the tribes for the more standoffish tribe members on the advice of a Catalan chicken keeping friend.

Here is one example.
View attachment 3545454
At roost time the chickens wait on the outside woodwork for their turn to enter the coop and while they are there it gives the keeper an ideal opportunity to have a look at legs feet and the underside. I have a roost bar outside the allotment coop and as you will have seen, the chickens get on this before going into the coop, with or without my encouragement.

For the novice to chicken inspections, getting the chicken off the roost bar at night is favourite. You'll need a good headtorch. They tend to stay in one place, especially if it's high off the ground (coop roofs work well if you have the right sort of coop).

For keepers with large walk in coops, inspection in the coop is easiest. The chickens aren't carried off to somewhere strange and in general stay calm.

With males, I've done handling them when young which they get used to and handling them as little as possible. I haven't noticed one way or the other leads to aggressive behaviour. What I did get were lifelong friends with those I handled a lot which can be as bigger problem as being standoffish.

The important thing is one must be able to inspect the chickens. I do a basic inspection daily on one or more at the allotments. I used to do a couple a week from each tribe in Catalonia and at the farm in Hertfordshire we did batch inspections daily but it was alot less considerate than the practice I have now due to the numbers involved.

I can't stress enough how imporatn it is to do these inspections; crop and vent checks and at least one body area every day if one can. Along with these a white tissue wipe along the underside of the roost bars in the coop every few days can and will save a lot of small problems turning into a major crisis.
Thank you for detailed response. And for emphasizing the importance of routine checks. I check the hens and chicks crops and vents routinely -- especially vigilant when they are finding and eating wild berries in season like recently (the purple poop is a dead giveaway). And for lice and mites. And feet. All the time, feet.

I only have a little over three years experience with chicken keeping overall, so I'm not drawing on a wealth of it, but . Out of the twenty or so hens, pullets, and chicks I've been able to perform inspections on, only two genuinely seemed to enjoy the contact. Cleo was one. But that was after two years of handling her trying to keep her chronic bumblefoot at bay. Dusty, the young frizzle, is the other -- but she does seem a little loca. The rest were somewhere on a scale of "I hate this" to "I'll put up with it, maybe." So my limited experience seems congruent enough with your informed opinion on chickens liking to be picked up at any rate.

And absolutely yes, by time a condition like anemia from a parasite infection is noticeable without routine checks, it's been too late. Experience is a bitter teacher.

I can walk inside the coop and I have a headtorch, so I'll try to establish a routine with Lucio, taking him off the roost bar after they settle in for flea treatment. I can keep the things I need over by the coop, I have a box over there for such purposes. Vaseline and sulphur soap to smother and remove freshly attached fleas. If it gets bad enough, I'll prep permethrin solution in advance, which I apply with a small paintbrush to affected areas instead of spraying it everywhere and getting particles in the air. Sticktight fleas don't get to unfeathered areas. They tend to cluster on the comb, cheeks, and hide on the undersides of the waddles. I've learned the habits of these fleas the hard way and I need to stay on top of it.
 
Thank you for detailed response. And for emphasizing the importance of routine checks. I check the hens and chicks crops and vents routinely -- especially vigilant when they are finding and eating wild berries in season like recently (the purple poop is a dead giveaway). And for lice and mites. And feet. All the time, feet.

I only have a little over three years experience with chicken keeping overall, so I'm not drawing on a wealth of it, but . Out of the twenty or so hens, pullets, and chicks I've been able to perform inspections on, only two genuinely seemed to enjoy the contact. Cleo was one. But that was after two years of handling her trying to keep her chronic bumblefoot at bay. Dusty, the young frizzle, is the other -- but she does seem a little loca. The rest were somewhere on a scale of "I hate this" to "I'll put up with it, maybe." So my limited experience seems congruent enough with your informed opinion on chickens liking to be picked up at any rate.

And absolutely yes, by time a condition like anemia from a parasite infection is noticeable without routine checks, it's been too late. Experience is a bitter teacher.

I can walk inside the coop and I have a headtorch, so I'll try to establish a routine with Lucio, taking him off the roost bar after they settle in for flea treatment. I can keep the things I need over by the coop, I have a box over there for such purposes. Vaseline and sulphur soap to smother and remove freshly attached fleas. If it gets bad enough, I'll prep permethrin solution in advance, which I apply with a small paintbrush to affected areas instead of spraying it everywhere and getting particles in the air. Sticktight fleas don't get to unfeathered areas. They tend to cluster on the comb, cheeks, and hide on the undersides of the waddles. I've learned the habits of these fleas the hard way and I need to stay on top of it.
Depending on the height of your roosts you may be able to do some inspections without removing anyone from the roost.
I am not as diligent as I should be, but I do try and inspect the rear ends of anyone roosting with their butt facing me when I walk around after dark.
I also find that even with the red light on the headlight the chickens do see reasonably well. Maybe not enough to fly down, but enough to get grumpy and peck. I try to approach in near total dark with the head torch shining straight down to my feet (in red) and then only move it when I am in my target zone.
 
Depending on the height of your roosts you may be able to do some inspections without removing anyone from the roost.
I am not as diligent as I should be, but I do try and inspect the rear ends of anyone roosting with their butt facing me when I walk around after dark.
I also find that even with the red light on the headlight the chickens do see reasonably well. Maybe not enough to fly down, but enough to get grumpy and peck. I try to approach in near total dark with the head torch shining straight down to my feet (in red) and then only move it when I am in my target zone.
Thank you.
 
….

I can't stress enough how imporatn it is to do these inspections; crop and vent checks and at least one body area every day if one can. Along with these a white tissue wipe along the underside of the roost bars in the coop every few days can and will save a lot of small problems turning into a major crisis.
1687041797671.png

Thanks for the info for a daily check.

I use red mite control rolls attached under the roost and in the laying nests. Best check every week from spring til late autumn. When its real warm even more often.
The mites like to hide in them during the day.
 
View attachment 3545956
Thanks for the info for a daily check.

I use red mite control rolls attached under the roost and in the laying nests. Best check every week from spring til late autumn. When its real warm even more often.
The mites like to hide in them during the day.
What are they made from?
 

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