Absolutely,
@Idaho Chicken Bungalow!
First of all, this coop is SOLID! A couple of years ago, a derecho dropped more than half of a mature tree on top of this coop. The only damage was a bit of bent roofing; the coop was fine.
There are two roosts so everybody has plenty of space and can choose the level that makes her more comfortable. Because of the roost design, I've been able to purchase a small tarp, attach hooks near the ceiling behind the top roost and hooks in front of the bottom roost to create a poop "hammock" that can be easily unhooked and dumped into the compost pile.
The outside nest boxes make egg collecting easy and, like the full-sized door and the pop door, the boxes have secure fasteners to keep out predators.
The raised height makes it easier to clean than my ground-level coops; I added some removable nesting pads that can be shaken and hosed off.
Not that the EZ is perfect, and I would never have been able to make myself pay full price for one. I snagged mine off Craigslist from someone whose husband built a much bigger coop for their flock. The asking price was only $800 ($600 if I was willing to clean it myself -- which I was going to do anyway).
At the time, the asking price still seemed pricey to me; last year, materials alone for a new coop of similar size cost $800. And, I had to get a friend with construction experience to help me build it.
Of course, the company overestimates the number of birds that can successfully live in their coop. I don't think I would ever put more than six full-sized chickens in mine, even though I have an attached (homemade) run and let everyone loose to forage during the day. In summer, they would be fine; in snowy winters when they don't want to venture out, I think it would be crowded with more girls.
The nest boxes add significant weight to one side of the coop so that when the tree hit it, the coop tipped over. However, it came to rest on an adjacent (homemade) coop, and I was able to right it by myself. I added some concrete stepping stones under the roosts to balance out the weight, although other BYC members have suggested I should have anchored it to the ground. Mine was also probably destabilized because there were some bricks under the wooden base frame to keep the wood from rotting -- back when it used to rain before the long-term drought.
Ventilation could be improved, although my girls made it through the first winter without problems. If I were more skilled, I would put in larger vents; I just bent my open a bit more. And, I fashioned a milk-jug plastic deflector for one of the windows so I can keep it half-open; it allows air in without having a breeze hit directly on the girls.
Also, I wish the windows opened from the top, not the bottom -- maybe just personal preference.
The previous owners had screwed wire grates -- likely old refrigerator shelving -- over the screened windows to keep out predators. Having lost birds to minks, I added a second layer of protection with hardware cloth fastened over the grates.
Overall, I would recommend this coop. The modifications I have added were minimal, and I have no concerns about my chickens' safety when they are inside. None of them were injured when the coop tipped, and no predator is going to get into the EZ. It looks good, it's held up well for more than four years for me. I don't know how long the previous owner had it.
Hope this helps you with your decision!