Show me your rabbit colony hutches

[FLKYZach]

There are lots of ways to do things and that might work for you.
In my limited experience, the popples stay in the box for less than 2 weeks and it doesn't get terribly nasty with the mesh bottom.
My does are really good mommas and check on the nest every time I've been in there. I'm not sure they would like it too much if I cleaned it out. Plus, then all the pulled fur they've arranged just so would be gone.

Ok how large shoud it be? and I meant cleaning it out between breeding sessions or after season.

 

[member 373180]

Mine are exactly the same size as in the linked article above. I put them into the doe's cage a couple days before she's due or earlier if she's showing nesting behavior.

The box comes out as soon as the popples start leaving it. I figure it's better if they can all huddle together outside than if one is stuck out alone. Some people turn the box on its side for a while once one starts coming out so they can all come and go as they please for a few days. In any case, box is gone once they're a couple weeks old. Sanitized and stored for next time.

 

[balloonflower]

I use pegboard for the bottoms of my nestbox. It drains for the first couple weeks. Sometime between 2-3 weeks I pull it, clean it out, and unscrew the pegboard, allowing the box to just sit on wire, but kits are plenty big enough by then.

Ditto on using good wire for the cage bottoms--14 ga gaw from klubertanz as well in mine. Huge difference between those I built and those I bought with 16 ga gbw mesh bottom. Worth the price difference to me.

Also--you may want to rethink the depth of cages. My 24" are tough enough to reach the back. Mine that I built--48" kindling cage in center, split top and bottom.

 

[FLKYZach]

Mine are exactly the same size as in the linked article above. I put them into the doe's cage a couple days before she's due or earlier if she's showing nesting behavior.

The box comes out as soon as the popples start leaving it. I figure it's better if they can all huddle together outside than if one is stuck out alone. Some people turn the box on its side for a while once one starts coming out so they can all come and go as they please for a few days. In any case, box is gone once they're a couple weeks old. Sanitized and stored for next time.

Ok that sounds like a good idea! were you able to look at the thread link i posted?

I use pegboard for the bottoms of my nestbox. It drains for the first couple weeks. Sometime between 2-3 weeks I pull it, clean it out, and unscrew the pegboard, allowing the box to just sit on wire, but kits are plenty big enough by then.

Ditto on using good wire for the cage bottoms--14 ga gaw from klubertanz as well in mine. Huge difference between those I built and those I bought with 16 ga gbw mesh bottom. Worth the price difference to me.

Also--you may want to rethink the depth of cages. My 24" are tough enough to reach the back. Mine that I built--48" kindling cage in center, split top and bottom.
View attachment 1160838

Those look amazing!

 

[member 373180]

Ok that sounds like a good idea! were you able to look at the thread link i posted?

Yeah, those are pretty neat, I'd worry about them using the dens as litter boxes. I have my whole setup in a 3-sided shed so I don't feel my buns need an extra den. By the looks of it, it gets a lot colder where that guy is than here. I have more trouble with heat in summer.

I have a nipple water system that feeds from a tank with a float valve. No heating, though, so I will pack it up when we start getting freezing temps. Last winter I had the heated bottles but they're expensive and one zapped my doe. This year I will just try switching out crocks through winter. We don't seem to be getting too much really cold weather anymore in these parts.

 

[FLKYZach]

Yeah, those are pretty neat, I'd worry about them using the dens as litter boxes. I have my whole setup in a 3-sided shed so I don't feel my buns need an extra den. By the looks of it, it gets a lot colder where that guy is than here. I have more trouble with heat in summer.

I have a nipple water system that feeds from a tank with a float valve. No heating, though, so I will pack it up when we start getting freezing temps. Last winter I had the heated bottles but they're expensive and one zapped my doe. This year I will just try switching out crocks through winter. We don't seem to be getting too much really cold weather anymore in these parts.

Ya thats exactly why I won't purchase those bottles. I'd rather have the cooler idea. But I'm in kentucky this is the first winter with rabbits so I've got them in covered hutches right now but I'm gonna throw a tarp over it and leave the bottom and fronts open to allow ventilation. or should i cover everything except the bottom?

 

[member 373180]

Mine spent last winter in a similar setup, tarp on three sides, and a roof. Only adults, though, I didn't try breeding in that setup. Probably be fine as long as you keep the drafts under control, though. And you could always bring the nest box inside if you happen to have a deep freeze when the popples are tiny.

 

[FLKYZach]

Mine spent last winter in a similar setup, tarp on three sides, and a roof. Only adults, though, I didn't try breeding in that setup. Probably be fine as long as you keep the drafts under control, though. And you could always bring the nest box inside if you happen to have a deep freeze when the popples are tiny.

Can't bring them inside but can put them in the chicken coop if it has to come down to it I've got 2 250watt heat lamps in there ready for the chickens so I can put the cages up on top of the nest boxes or hang them from the ceiling.

 

[member 373180]

No need to move whole cages. Ive read that some people regularly just keep the nest box with babies in a closet inside and bring them out to the mom for feedings a couple times a day. Adults will definitely be fine in a Kentucky winter protected from drafts.

I tried giving mine some cardboard boxes to shelter in on cold nights last winter and they just flattened them and ate them.

I think there are some issues with diseases that are passeed between chickens and rabbits, might want to read up on that before putting the babies in the coop.

 

[HeidiEmbrey]

View attachment 1160696 Not sure if this is what you're looking for but here's my setup (shiny new at that point). Top row for the breeding trio 30x36x24" each with a 12" shelf - they really seem to enjoy the extra height.
Bottom row two grow out cages for males and females. Mezzanine shelf all the way around for the bunny 500 every morning

I don't have rabbits but wondering please, what is ''the bunny 500?'' lol