Show off your Peas!

So you only wash the dirty ones?

-Kathy

Where is @Garden Peas ? This subject was right up her alley! It was going to be her hatching project this year to try the different types and ways to sanitize eggs for hatching, incubator disinfecting too.

I've noticed before when an egg quits with a dark blob inside many times there is a washed spot on the outside of the shell in that same location.

One of the important parts of the equation is to use the Tek-trol in warm water. If used in cold the egg will contract sucking in any bacteria on the egg, using warm will let it expand opening the pores so the sanitizer reaches any possible bacteria without it getting inside the shell.
 
I've been wondering where @Garden Peas is as well??? And I've never washed a hatching egg,
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always thought it was such a big "NO-NO". If they are super dirty I just do not set them.
 
I have been washing my eggs with Dawn Dishwashing liquid. I worry about the ones I found under the roost that got poo covered though. Hopefully I was able to clean those up enough.

Not sure what you have under your roosts, but I have my roosts inside and I make sure to try to keep the woodchips thick and mounded up under the roost, that way most perch bombs will hit the mound and be cushioned as well as rolling out of the line of fire.
 
An egg has an enter and outer membrane that protects it from bacteria from entering the developing egg, IMO you should never wash an egg, wiping it off with a damp cloth is OK but when you wash them with chemicals you wash the outer membrane off leaving just the inter membrane for protection.
Sure folks can say oh well i use this cleaned all the time and have no problems and ya know what i never use it and i never have any problems either, IMO keeping chemicals as far away from eggs as possible is the best because their is a double protection in place when the eggs are laid.

I can understand why hatchery's would have to use it they get eggs from different egg farms and have to take precautions to avoid cross contamination that may come in together from so many different egg farms but we as small breeders do have more control of what we bring in as far as hatching eggs IMO we care for our birds in smaller numbers and are not taking in 1000's of eggs from different farms every day for hatching.

I am curious when using these products what does the handling instructions of the chemicals you are using recommend? using gloves, avoid getting into eyes , is it fatal if you swallow it? can someone that uses these cleaners tell me please

here is an illustration of the egg parts and their functions,


here is another illustration the membrane you was off with chemicals is called the cuticle
 
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An egg has an enter and outer membrane that protects it from bacteria from entering the developing egg, IMO you should never wash an egg, wiping it off with a damp cloth is OK but when you wash them with chemicals you wash the outer membrane off leaving just the inter membrane for protection.
Sure folks can say oh well i use this cleaned all the time and have no problems and ya know what i never use it and i never have any problems either, IMO keeping chemicals as far away from eggs as possible is the best because their is a double protection in place when the eggs are laid.

I can understand why hatchery's would have to use it they get eggs from different egg farms and have to take precautions to avoid cross contamination that may come in together from so many different egg farms but we as small breeders do have more control of what we bring in as far as hatching eggs IMO we care for our birds in smaller numbers and are not taking in 1000's of eggs from different farms every day for hatching.

I am curious when using these products what does the handling instructions of the chemicals you are using recommend? using gloves, avoid getting into eyes , is it fatal if you swallow it? can someone that uses these cleaners tell me please

here is an illustration of the egg parts and their functions,
I don't use it but when looking at the pictures I saw on the front in big letters " Keep out of reach of kids DANGER." In my opinion I agree with Zaz not to use chemicals. Especially if they say Keep out of reach of kids and DANGER.
 
Birdman55 posted all the label information in his post. Zaz, your argument reminds me of the people I know who tell me 'I free range my peas, only feed them scratch, never worm them, and not very many die'.

To me if disinfecting an egg only helps a little bit, it is like worming, I save a few that I would have normally lost had I not used the sanitizer.
 
I don't use it but when looking at the pictures I saw on the front in big letters " Keep out of reach of kids DANGER." In my opinion I agree with Zaz not to use chemicals. Especially if they say Keep out of reach of kids and DANGER.

Wize beyond your years. Tell us what wormers you use that don't say the exact same thing on the label? Do you think Corid might say that too?
 
Wize beyond your years. Tell us what wormers you use that don't say the exact same thing on the label? Do you think Corid might say that too?
You are talking about totally different things here, your statement makes no sense to me you keep the wormer away from children so they don't drink it, however Fenbendazole has been used to treat worms in humans i believe
Structurally, CORID mimics thiamine (Vitamin B1) which is required by coccidia for normal growth and reproduction. When coccidia ingest CORID, they experience thiamine deficiency and starve from malnutrition. CORID has been experimentally administered at many times the recommended dosage and duration with no signs of toxicity

A real good read, please read about the funcition of the cuticle i understand some folks may have a reason to was eggs but in all reality if you are removing bateria what stops it from getting on the chicks after they hatch and they are exposed to it anyhow when they are put into a brooder with other chicks or in a pen with or near other birds? What are folks wanting to was off?

I am learning with all of you and do not mean any disrespect to any of you.
he Anatomy of a Chicken Egg

egg_anatomy2-200x150.jpg
I’ve been poking around the internet and books for some cool experiments and information about eggs in general. I came across this really nice breakdown of the various parts of a chicken egg over at edinformatics.com and have duplicated the information below. I’ve always wondered what those white stringy things (Chalaza) are in my eggs when I make an omelet and now I know not only their name, but also what their function is inside the eggs!


  1. Eggshell – The outer eggshell is made almost entirely of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and is covered with as many as 17,000 tiny pores. It is a semipermeable membrane, which allows air and moisture to pass through its pores. The shell also has a thin outermost coating called the bloom or cuticle that helps keep out bacteria and dust (see below 15).
  2. Outer shell membrane
  3. Inner shell membrane – These two membranes – outer and inner – are just inside the shell surrounding the albumen (white). The two membranes provide an efficient defense against bacterial invasion and are made partly of keratin. The outer membrane sticks to the egg shell while the inner membrane sticks to the albumen. When an egg is first laid, it is warm. As it cools, the contents contract and the inner shell membrane separates from the outer shell membrane to form the air cell (see 14 below).
  4. Chalaza – are twisted in opposite directions and serve to keep the yolk centered. The more prominent the chalazae, the fresher the egg.
  5. Exterior albumen (outer thin albumen) — The outer thin albumen is a narrow fluid layer next to the shell membrane.
  6. Middle albumen (inner thick albumen) -The inner thick white (chalaziferous layer) is a dense, matted, fibrous capsule of albumen around the vitelline membrane of the yolk. The matted fibrous capsule terminates on each end in the chalazae, which are twisted in opposite directions and serve to keep the yolk centered. This part of the egg is a excellent source of riboflavin and protein. In high-quality eggs, the inner thick albumen stands higher and spreads less than thin white. In low-quality eggs, it appears thin white.
  7. Vitelline membrane – The clear casing that encloses the egg yolk. When an egg is said to be “mottled”, the yolk surface is covered with many pale spots or blotches. The strength and integrity of the vitelline membrane are very important in preventing egg yolk mottling.
  8. Nucleus of pander – a plug of whitish yolk, with no particular significance for development and whose function is purely a nutritive one, like the rest of the yolk. (See: Int. Schmitt S., (2005) J. Dev. Biol. 49: 1-8).
  9. Germinal disk (blastoderm) – a small, circular, white spot (2-3 mm across) on the surface of the yolk; it is where the sperm enters the egg. The nucleus of the egg is in the blastodisc. The embryo develops from this disk, and gradually sends blood vessels into the yolk to use it for nutrition as the embryo develops.
  10. Yellow yolk – a major source of vitamins, minerals, almost half of the protein, and all of the fat and cholesterol. The yolk contains less water and more protein than the white, some fat, and most of the vitamins and minerals of the egg. These include iron, vitamin A, vitamin D, phosphorus, calcium, thiamine, and riboflavin. The yolk is also a source of lecithin, an effective emulsifier. Yolk color ranges from just a hint of yellow to a magnificent deep orange, according to the feed and breed of the hen.
  11. White yolk – Also known as, the latebra is an area of white yolk located in the center of the yolk. It is lower in fat and therefore stands out as a bright white area in many Magnetic Resonance Images. The specific function of the latebra is uncertain but it may act as a central structure around which the additional layers of the yolk are formed.
  12. Internal albumen (Chalaziferous albumen)– The inner thick white (chalaziferous layer) is a dense, matted, fibrous capsule of albumen around the vitelline membrane of the yolk. The matted fibrous capsule terminates on each end in the chalazae, which are twisted in opposite directions and serve to keep the yolk centered.
  13. Chalaza chalazae, which are twisted in opposite directions and serve to keep the yolk centered. The more prominent the chalazae, the fresher the egg. chalazae, which are twisted in opposite directions and serve to keep the yolk centered.
  14. Air cell – An air space forms when the contents of the egg cool and contract after the egg is laid. The air cell usually rests between the outer and inner membranes at the eggs larger end. As the egg ages, moisture and carbon dioxide leave through the pores of the shell, air enters to replace them and the air cell becomes larger.
  15. Cuticle or bloom – The shell is produced by the shell gland (uterus) of the oviduct, and has an outer coating, the bloom or cuticle. The cuticle somewhat seals the pores and is useful in reducing moisture losses and in preventing bacterial penetration of the egg shell. Most of cuticle is removed from table eggs when they are mechanically washed.
 
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Where is @Garden Peas ? This subject was right up her alley! It was going to be her hatching project this year to try the different types and ways to sanitize eggs for hatching, incubator disinfecting too.

I've noticed before when an egg quits with a dark blob inside many times there is a washed spot on the outside of the shell in that same location.

One of the important parts of the equation is to use the Tek-trol in warm water. If used in cold the egg will contract sucking in any bacteria on the egg, using warm will let it expand opening the pores so the sanitizer reaches any possible bacteria without it getting inside the shell.

morning...the warm water is supposed to be between 78-110...also you have to use water that is below 400 ppm (part per million)...most wells are around 400ppm...you could use distilled water or reverse osmosis water...ppm is dissolved salts in your water...the only reason i know all the water stuff is because i have ppm pens to test water for my hydroponics....i have done hydroponics for over ten years....best way to grow anything and the fastest...the only reason i got into the tek trol is because i was told by a big pheasant breeder that has expensive birds that she has had great success with it...she says she gently wipes off any debris with warm water and then mists the eggs with a spray bottle....

i think something is going on in one of my pens of peas....so they are shaking their heads and scratching at their faces...could this be a bad thing or do you guys think its just the hay getting to them now that it is getting warm out...?no other pens are doing this...even the ones in the other greenhouse with the same bedding
 

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