Sick Hen (Inner Ear Infection vs. Mareks)

[Wyorp Rock]

the Vet was treating her for an Inner Ear Infection, as she was leaning towards that as first step of treatment - although she checked her out and said overall she looked great.

I guess I misunderstood your "Crop" comment on your prior message - not sure how to check her crop, but I will look at how to - and will document for a few days

To look inside the ear, look behind that tuft of feathers (RED arrow), there is an ear canal - it should look clean (free of debris, yellow waxy/pus and/or mites).
Just in case you're wondering (GREEN arrow) is the earlobe

For a crop check. The crop is located on the right side of the chicken near the breast.
Do a comparison between her and the others. When they have been eating/drinking, you should be able to run your hand down the right side (front) and feel a bulge - that's where the crop is - you'll feel food in there! The crop is essentially a pouch that holds food that's waiting to move to the gizzard. When they go to bed, chickens usually have a full crop, the crop should empty completely overnight. If it's not empty in the morning before eating/drinking, then there's a problem.

She looks quite perky to me! If she's coming out of molt, that could be part of what you are seeing - I'm not dismissing your concerns - you see her all the time and it's easier for a keeper to spot something "off". Molting can be very hard on some of them and I do feel they benefit from extra vitamins and protein. That's where I would start.

 

[nicks8400]

To look inside the ear, look behind that tuft of feathers (RED arrow), there is an ear canal - it should look clean (free of debris, yellow waxy/pus and/or mites).
Just in case you're wondering (GREEN arrow) is the earlobe

For a crop check. The crop is located on the right side of the chicken near the breast.
Do a comparison between her and the others. When they have been eating/drinking, you should be able to run your hand down the right side (front) and feel a bulge - that's where the crop is - you'll feel food in there! The crop is essentially a pouch that holds food that's waiting to move to the gizzard. When they go to bed, chickens usually have a full crop, the crop should empty completely overnight. If it's not empty in the morning before eating/drinking, then there's a problem.

She looks quite perky to me! If she's coming out of molt, that could be part of what you are seeing - I'm not dismissing your concerns - you see her all the time and it's easier for a keeper to spot something "off". Molting can be very hard on some of them and I do feel they benefit from extra vitamins and protein. That's where I would start.


View attachment 1970398

Both ears appear to be clear and nothing abnormal looking (no coloration, obstruction, etc).

I checked her Crop last night, it was full, and also checked another - she was full too. I checked this morning when they came out of the coop and her Crop was empty.

I started her on the Vitamins yesterday, along with her continued antibiotic from the Vet - we shall see how she does.

I did remove regular feeding of the Scratch - and will look at alternate food this weekend to do some research with my local feed stores.

Thanks so much for all the feedback and pointers! Enjoy the weekend!

 

[Eggcessive]

Make sure that your vitamin has B vitamins, especially riboflavin (B2.)

 

[nicks8400]

What is fed on a regular basis including treats and supplements?
Organic Lay Pellets (Modesto Feed)
Organic Scratch - tossed out daily (small amount, 1 cup or so in the run)
Vegetables (greens/spinach, carrots, berries, tomatoes, etc)

4 Hens

Okay, Age doesn't fit with Marek's *if* this is just barely happening for the first time. Most feed store chicks are not vaccinated. Honestly, vaccinated birds not welcome here to hide the disease since it just stops symptoms from developing IF they do get it.

STOP or lay off the scratch very seriously... it is usually low in protein (often 7%), vitamins, minerals, and amino acids and a cup is WAY to much for 4 hens to get daily. Some scratch mixes are high in fatty seeds. Could even be seeing fatty liver issues (most often seen in Orpington type, predisposed genetically AND fed excess treats). What breeds are your gals?

At 18 months old... they *should* be getting ready to have a molt. What breeds have ya got? I would consider switching to Purina flock raiser... or a grower with 18-20% protein (if you can find an organic one you like) and offer oyster shell on the side for active layers... as the excess calcium of "layer" is not needed when not laying and the added protein and amino acids will help the birds have a less harsh molt and recover more quickly in my experience. I actually never use layer since discovering the difference.


Yes, it can be done at a vet, by mail, or even with your own microscope if you're so inclined. When taking a sample to the vet... I do a "group" sample to get an overall look at the flock.

Please note that entering molt can cause all kinds of undesirable changes in some birds... withdrawal, discomfort, avoidance of pecking order, a general challenge to the immune system, etc. It can be a hard time for them. Have you seen any eggs from her recently?

Are you able to upload a video to youtube or vimeo and post a link here so we might see what you are? Thanks for all the answers!

Hopefully you are just an extra cautious and observant guardian!

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Looking at the feed I have been using....with getting into the "winter" months and with chickens currently not laying (the last one stopped about a week ago) - should I switch it up? Below is my current feed.

Modesto Milling
*Organic Non Soy Layer Pellets #6020 or Crumbles #975

Use: Layer pellets and crumbles are formulated to be complete feeds, but are also useful as part of a pasture-based diet. Layer pellets and crumbles can be fed starting at 15-18 weeks of age.

Ingredients: Organic corn, organic stabilized rice bran, organic peas, limestone, organic wheat, organic sun-dried alfalfa, organic flaxseed, moncalcium phosphate, Redmond Conditioner (clay), diatomaceous earth, organic kelp meal, Zeolite, Redmond Sea Salt, DL methionine, poultry vitamin & mineral premix, organic garlic granules, organic horseradish powder, organic star anise oil, organic juniper berry oil

Guaranteed Analysis: Crude protein min 17%, crude fat min 2.6%, crude fiber max 4.0%, ash max 14.4%

 

[Eggcessive]

I use Flock Raiser 20% protein feed year round with crushed oyster shell available since my hens are older and few lay eggs. They don’t need 4% calcium when not laying for sure.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

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Looking at the feed I have been using....with getting into the "winter" months and with chickens currently not laying (the last one stopped about a week ago) - should I switch it up? Below is my current feed.

Modesto Milling
*Organic Non Soy Layer Pellets #6020 or Crumbles #975

Use: Layer pellets and crumbles are formulated to be complete feeds, but are also useful as part of a pasture-based diet. Layer pellets and crumbles can be fed starting at 15-18 weeks of age.

Ingredients: Organic corn, organic stabilized rice bran, organic peas, limestone, organic wheat, organic sun-dried alfalfa, organic flaxseed, moncalcium phosphate, Redmond Conditioner (clay), diatomaceous earth, organic kelp meal, Zeolite, Redmond Sea Salt, DL methionine, poultry vitamin & mineral premix, organic garlic granules, organic horseradish powder, organic star anise oil, organic juniper berry oil

Guaranteed Analysis: Crude protein min 17%, crude fat min 2.6%, crude fiber max 4.0%, ash max 14.4%

I also use a 20% protein feed, but I have various age groups and a couple of roosters too, which do not need the extra calcium.
Feed is one of those personal preference things. Many people use layer feed and have no problems. If you are satisfied with the quality of the feed, I see no reason to change.
One thing I try to do is limit "treats" since mine are confined, they do get a bit of scratch, sunflower seeds, veggies, etc., daily, but not a lot.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

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Looking at the feed I have been using....with getting into the "winter" months and with chickens currently not laying (the last one stopped about a week ago) - should I switch it up? Below is my current feed.

Modesto Milling
*Organic Non Soy Layer Pellets #6020 or Crumbles #975

Use: Layer pellets and crumbles are formulated to be complete feeds, but are also useful as part of a pasture-based diet. Layer pellets and crumbles can be fed starting at 15-18 weeks of age.

Ingredients: Organic corn, organic stabilized rice bran, organic peas, limestone, organic wheat, organic sun-dried alfalfa, organic flaxseed, moncalcium phosphate, Redmond Conditioner (clay), diatomaceous earth, organic kelp meal, Zeolite, Redmond Sea Salt, DL methionine, poultry vitamin & mineral premix, organic garlic granules, organic horseradish powder, organic star anise oil, organic juniper berry oil

Guaranteed Analysis: Crude protein min 17%, crude fat min 2.6%, crude fiber max 4.0%, ash max 14.4%

Wow, fun to see all those ingredients! Weird that it has clay, DE, and zeolite. I must check this feed out.

I stand at the same place as the two previous posters... it is a personal choice... and I never feel the need to use "layer" since switching to the flock raiser... I do feel feel as though my flock is in better condition over all than when I used layer... even though my birds have access to lush pasture and it's probably more protein rich HERE in winter than summer. That guaranteed analysis doesn't show amino acid levels or calcium... which aside from protein are the two main things I'm looking at... Chickens need some animal based amino acids... they are added in synthetic form to our vegetarian feeds... flock raiser (just for example) is *usually* higher in amino acid levels than layer... from what I can remember, back when I was spending hours reading labels at feed stores.

I haven't seen organic flock raiser... only organic starter or layer, usually... so if organic was key to me (or you) I would consider mixing the two feeds to achieve the protein level I like... and adding OS on the side still. I agree 4% is too much for non layers, long term. For me PERSONALLY... not below 18% and not above 22% protein. 22% was shown in SOME studies to give the best hatch rate, which (to me) would also say more nutrition in the eggs my family is consuming. And dual purpose birds will do best on not less than 18% (again, according to some studies). Anything above that does not benefit chickens and may even decrease hatch rates. Excess protein will be excreted as extra smelly (and pricey) waste. I did experiment with game bird starter feeds... more is not always better. Balance does seem to be key.

All that being said... I did not experience problems when I did use only layer even during molt. I just don't consider it MY best choice... as I no longer keep $3 hatchery chicks/hens... and have invested years and hundreds if not more than a thousand dollars for the birds I keep now.. which does include roosters. I keep extras because I can't simply go buy another if something does happen like predators. While most kidney related calcium issues will be caused by genetics and accentuated by excess treats... it's just not worth the risk... to ME. Layer feed is always several $ cheaper than flock raiser because calcium is cheaper than protein It also has zero calories. But you get what you pay for... most of the time. So for me it would be about avoiding the calcium maybe more so than increasing the protein... otherwise I might supplement some (animal) protein without switching my feed.

I know that's not a very clear answer... but you have lots of good information to make YOUR choice with!

Can't wait to see the information you share in the future!