Sick Pullet (with pics) -- Lethargic, droopy tail, and not eating or drinking much...

Discussion in 'Emergencies / Diseases / Injuries and Cures' started by blackwingedwolf, Nov 3, 2014.

  1. blackwingedwolf

    blackwingedwolf Out Of The Brooder

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    My chick Camellia (about 8 or so months old) is sick, and I have no idea what's wrong with her :( She's been like this before, but it only lasted two days and then she got better again. But this time, it's been going on for much longer. She's very lethargic, she's not getting up to eat unless I sit her on my lap and coax her. She drinks only one beak full every few hours it seems, and she's been dropping some strange.. well.. droppings for the past few days, and it's bright yellow with dark green. I thought it was something with her crop, since it was squishy, and I did turn her upside down to see if whatever came out stinks, but it didn't, so I am sure I can rule out Sour Crop.. She was a layer, but she hasn't laid in over two months now. I gave her some a tablespoon of the yogurt that I had in the house and got her to eat most of it once I mixed it with some of the layer's feed.

    I have her isolated, but I'm really worried about her. I don't know what could be wrong.

    I just gave her a blended up mixture of celery, pumpkin, banana, and strawberry yogurt, weird I know, but it tasted good. She hasn't eaten any yet, but I'm hoping that she'll give it a try.

    Is there anything else that I can do for her? She's at that point where you can walk straight up to her and poke her and she won't react at all...

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  2. Eggcessive

    Eggcessive Chicken Obsessed Premium Member

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    Those droppings are definitely abnormal. If you can get one checked by your local vet for worms, coccidiosis, and e.coli I would. She could have coccidiosis, or perhaps E.coli or possibly histomoniasis (blackhead) with the bright yellow droppings. I would stop all the extra food and put her strictly on her layer feed--and you can mix water in it to an oatmeal consistency if she will take it better. Buttermilk in small amounts works better as a probiotic since yogurt is not that well digested, but powdered probiotics added to the water are even better. Have you ever treated the flock for cocci, or do you have any Corid? Until you can get to a vet I would start Corid in the water for coccidiosis. Dosage is 2 tsp of liquid Corid , or 1.5 tsp of the powder, per gallon of water for 5-7 days. Afterward, give her vitamins and probiotics for several more days. Has she been wormed recently? Histomoniasis or blackhead usually affects turkeys more so than chickens, but occasionally they will get it. Treatment is metronidazole (Fish Zole, Flagyl) 250 mg by mouth daily for 5 days. Treatment of cecal worms with Valbazen 1 ml orally, and repeated in 10 days would kill them if she has them. They are what causes blackhead. I have no experience with blackhead, so it would be great if you could take in an early morning very fresh stool sample to your vet. They should do it for you without having to see her, but if you want her seen, that would be best.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014
  3. blackwingedwolf

    blackwingedwolf Out Of The Brooder

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    I had them feed on medicated feed when they were chicks, which said on that package that it would prevent coccidiosis. I put some DE in their food about a month ago since i heard that it will help with de-worming.

    I haven't heard of Corid or histomoniasis and i'm not sure if i can take her to a vet. There is no one around that i know of that deals with chickens since i live in a residential area that doesn't have many chickens (I think it's just me and someone else a few blocks over that has a rooster).
     
  4. Eggcessive

    Eggcessive Chicken Obsessed Premium Member

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    An vet's office can do a fecal float for worms and coccidiosis. They probably could also test for E.coli with a gram stain on the stool sample. My vet does not see chickens either, but he will test a stool sample. If you have a regular vet they may agree to do it if you just show up with the sample. DE or diatom will not kill worms. Once it gets wet inside the crop it is ineffective. Valbazen and Safeguard Liquid Goat Wormer are 2 very safe wormers, much less harmful than the damage worms will do to intestines. Valbazen requires only 1 dose for cecal worms, where SafeGuard requires 3 doses, and both are repeated in 10 days.
     
  5. blackwingedwolf

    blackwingedwolf Out Of The Brooder

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    I can find the medications somewhere hopefully. Do you know how much it will be for the tests to be done on the samples?
     
  6. Michael Apple

    Michael Apple Overrun With Chickens

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    Caecal worms are known to cause bright yellow droppings. The caecal sacs get inflamed and worms carrying the Histomonas protozoan get in the liver and intestines. That bird needs to be wormed and then dosed with 250 mg of Metronidazole once a day for 5 days. This is why it is so important to keep certain medications on hand when problems like this occur. Run poultry vitamin-probiotic soluble powder in waterers during treatment. This is proof, again, that diatomaceous earth DOES NOT prevent or treat intestinal worms.
     
  7. Eggcessive

    Eggcessive Chicken Obsessed Premium Member

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    I would call your vet and just ask for those tests, no need to spill the beans that it is for a chicken. My vet charges $30 for a fecal float, that he used to charge $5, so the price can vary. Corid costs around $16-20. Valbazen wormer is about $40, while SafeGuard is $20. I prefer Valbazen because it gets all worm in 1 dose, then repeated in 10 days for the worm larvae.
     
  8. Eggcessive

    Eggcessive Chicken Obsessed Premium Member

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  9. blackwingedwolf

    blackwingedwolf Out Of The Brooder

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    and the Fish Zole will help with the chickens?
     
  10. Eggcessive

    Eggcessive Chicken Obsessed Premium Member

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    Fish Zole is metronidazole that Michael Apple and I have both recommended. But she also needs treatment for possible cecal worms, too.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2014

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