Silkies

[Mduggar]

Why don't you ask some specific questions?

When they have chicks, will the mother do everything. Do I have to give them special food etc.

Also, what time of year should I expect chicks?

 

[Wolfefarmyard]

When they have chicks, will the mother do everything. Do I have to give them special food etc.

Also, what time of year should I expect chicks?

You should offer them chick starter so they get the right amount of protein. And they may hatch chicks at any time of the year, but more commonly during warm weather. Although, we just had a Silkie go broody in the middle of winter.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

When they have chicks, will the mother do everything. Do I have to give them special food etc.

Also, what time of year should I expect chicks?

My hens are broody at all times of year and will hatch out chicks as often as I will let them. But I can't let them ALL the time. One of my gals did lay off brooding for the winter and lay nicely during that time. In nature part of the reason animals have offspring in the spring is because that is when food is more readily available. In our homes, we usually provide adequate nutrition all year... giving the season less impact, at least on those excessively broody gals. In addition, my broody Silkies seem to mini molt while raising their young... and so far, haven't had ANY do a winter molt or delay in laying. Can't wait to see how this plays out again next year, because it may offset some of the broodiness (or loss of eggs throughout the year), in my perspective!

The mothers will usually try to do everything the chicks need. Though sometimes I provide some extra feed put around since she takes some out the feeder and drops for them, but depending on the mom and how many chicks... that might not be enough. Silkie chicks are slower about finding their way up to the feeders height than LF chicks. Once they find their way up though, they don't need my extra support. I keep my feeders about level with back height of the LF (large fowl in case you didn't know that one) hens. I also make sure their are waters low enough for chicks... and TRY not to have big open tubs of water to prevent drowning. I actually use a cake pan. Note all the other chickens will try to take any resources I provide for chicks.

I also pay attention if it's raining to see that she made it to shelter the first time. Basically I supervise the first couple days of outings to supervise flock dynamics. And also provide feed and water right by the nest after hatching starts, but ONLY during the day time to avoid rats and such. And I might block them into the nest for the first couple days so that nobody accidentally gets out and can't get back in, chilling and flock dynamics without mums intervention are both brutal, and she won't leave the nest until she knows everybody is done hatching, so any early leavers could be in trouble. EVERY single time is different, even with the same broody.

Since I always have chicks, broody's, layers, roosters, molters, and juveniles... I feed Purina Flock Raiser crumbles with 20% protein and about 1% calcium. I offer oyster shell free choice on the side for layers who need more calcium. This works really well for my whole flock.

Other reasons I feed this way...

Too much calcium, as in "layer" feed has about 4% *can* (doesn't mean will) cause kidney issues like gout and even failure, if fed LONG TERM to those NOT in lay. If fed to juveniles it can stunt their growth and possibly delay onset of lay (that may also be relative to the reduction in protein). And I already said I have all ages and genders, so I choose not to take the risk.

I have dual purpose birds... for meat and eggs. Not that being my reason (though it is), but the category their breeds are in.. meaning they have slightly heavier bodies but still lay enough eggs for them to count. Dual purpose hens will do best on about 18% protein, 16% as in "layer" is the MINIMUM. Feathers are made from 90% protein and it's amino acids, show breeders know this and often feed 25% protein. 22% protein fed to parent stock has been shown to give better hatch rates AND chick vitality. I DO hatch, but to me it also says better nutrients in the eggs my family is consuming. So 20% protein is a good happy medium for me and my goals. Can provides links to studies if requested.

In addition, this is what's consistently available to me at a price point I can handle. $17 per 50# bag when we got to the city. Or $21 if I buy local. I don't have a brand loyalty, just what has the best ingredients with the correct nutritional analysis on the label for my goal. And I'm starting to notice mill date as well. Purina owns a large portion of the brands anyways even when they aren't labeled Purina. Oyster shell is around $9.50 for a 50# bag. So even though "layer" feed is cheaper... I figure OS is cheaper than protein... so it probably evens out. And also... nothing cheaper about keeping chickens, so I may not be able to go organic crazy but I'm not trying to skimp them either.

Information overload?!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

You should offer them chick starter so they get the right amount of protein.

Also an acceptable choice... even for the whole flock if not medicated, and there really is NO need for medicated... just keep the brooder dry and water poo free.

"Chick starter", "grower", "layer", "all flock", "egg maker", "breeder", "meat bird"... all confusing terms used by different companies... that BASICALLY means what are the levels of protein and calcium in them. There are some vitamin/mineral differences, but they are insignificant really.

I have seen some "starter"... that has only 18% protein while others have 22%, depending on brand. I won't personally start my birds as low as 18%, that might have even been medicated manna pro I saw at Wally. I suggest having an idea of what you want, and selecting the one that fits your goal most closely... out of what's available to you, and according to the analysis label not the term the placed on the front of the bag.

 

[Mduggar]

I have high nesting boxes: is that an issue

 

[Nashonii]

Thank you. Do you know anything about roosters?

My roosters are very good and protect their ladies well. There ate 2 differences between Silkies and others breeds is that, due to hawks getting them, they need a covered run, and I believe, More heat in extreme cold.

 

[FishMtFarm]

I have high nesting boxes: is that an issue

For the silkies it is. They are ground dwellers and can't fly. Mine sleep on the floor and they lay their eggs on the floor so nesting boxes for them should be down on the ground.

 

[Mduggar]

Hi, just an update. I got six silkies today and they at absolute dears. I got two "teenagers", three young ones, and 1 week old one.

 

[FishMtFarm]

I have a blue cream breeding pair for sale if anyone is interested. Hen is a little darker than I like but the rooster is light and will throw more pastel on the babies and add a bit more blue. Rooster is nice, and comes from Magnolia Silkies. He will compliment this hen nicely. $200 and am NY NPIP and can ship. Both under a year old.