Slow Crop?

[Shezadandy]

I would stop with red wine, lemon juice et. al. and see how she does just eating the scrambled egg and other items she'll readily eat and then re-evaluate. Massage at this point might be more to make sure she gets food past whatever the obstruction is. Some is getting by if she's still pooping. Agree that continuing to vomit her probably isn't productive. I save that for a miserably distended crop full of fluid to give a hen relief, and to make room for treatment fluids with the stool softener capsule material and poultridrench mixed in. Surgery on such a small pullet is going to present some logistical challenges. If you consider going this direction I strongly suggest buying a suture practice kit (amazon has some nice ones) and a packet of internal organs from a butcher and/or supermarket to get a feel for what suturing the crop will feel like, and also know it's going to be a very, very, very small area to work in, so do be cognizant of those factors. When we did crop surgery on a full sized hen, suturing the crop was like sewing jello sprayed with WD-40 and it was still a really little area! I'm not trying to discourage you, I just want to offer words of wisdom and suggestion of how to prepare yourself for the real deal if you go that way.

 

[LaurenDickens]

I would stop with red wine, lemon juice et. al. and see how she does just eating the scrambled egg and other items she'll readily eat and then re-evaluate. Massage at this point might be more to make sure she gets food past whatever the obstruction is. Some is getting by if she's still pooping. Agree that continuing to vomit her probably isn't productive. I save that for a miserably distended crop full of fluid to give a hen relief, and to make room for treatment fluids with the stool softener capsule material and poultridrench mixed in. Surgery on such a small pullet is going to present some logistical challenges. If you consider going this direction I strongly suggest buying a suture practice kit (amazon has some nice ones) and a packet of internal organs from a butcher and/or supermarket to get a feel for what suturing the crop will feel like, and also know it's going to be a very, very, very small area to work in, so do be cognizant of those factors. When we did crop surgery on a full sized hen, suturing the crop was like sewing jello sprayed with WD-40 and it was still a really little area! I'm not trying to discourage you, I just want to offer words of wisdom and suggestion of how to prepare yourself for the real deal if you go that way.

Thank you for that! I'm definitely keeping surgery as a last resort. I've read on here that sometimes these situations can take weeks or months to fully resolve. I'm trying to be patient as possible; I just feel so bad when she starts to balloon up again. Hopefully the bra will help my guilt around that.

She's such a lil sweetheart and has been a champ through all of this. I think she's a fighter

 

[Relleoms]

We managed crop issues in our Tilly for about a year, starting with surgery when she was 3 months old (she eventually passed from a pendulous crop which was probably hereditary, so a slightly different situation than what you’re dealing with). I loved her dearly, and was willing to do anything for her, but we have decided we will not go to such measures moving forward. That being said, we found some things really helpful before she got really sick.
First, our vet always suggested worming her when she had a flare up in case there was a mass of worms blocking her digestive tract. She never had worms show up in a fecal sample, but it was a relatively harmless starting point. We combined that with a round of corid for coccidiocis, again pretty harmless. She also suggested keeping her diet very simple to digest: wet feed and scrambled eggsc fresh water. We massaged her crop 2-3 times a day and gave her raglan, a stimulant, as prescribed. This total process lasted 10 days I believe (until all treatments were complete as prescribed), and we kept her in a small crate in the coop so she could be with her girls. She also wore a crop bra, which I think helped. Bottom line, keep it simple but consistent. I think initianally we tried too many things. Hopefully you’ll be able to resolve her issues before it gets pendulous and she’ll live her best chicken life for many years. I wish you and your girl all the best!

 

[LaurenDickens]

We managed crop issues in our Tilly for about a year, starting with surgery when she was 3 months old (she eventually passed from a pendulous crop which was probably hereditary, so a slightly different situation than what you’re dealing with). I loved her dearly, and was willing to do anything for her, but we have decided we will not go to such measures moving forward. That being said, we found some things really helpful before she got really sick.
First, our vet always suggested worming her when she had a flare up in case there was a mass of worms blocking her digestive tract. She never had worms show up in a fecal sample, but it was a relatively harmless starting point. We combined that with a round of corid for coccidiocis, again pretty harmless. She also suggested keeping her diet very simple to digest: wet feed and scrambled eggsc fresh water. We massaged her crop 2-3 times a day and gave her raglan, a stimulant, as prescribed. This total process lasted 10 days I believe (until all treatments were complete as prescribed), and we kept her in a small crate in the coop so she could be with her girls. She also wore a crop bra, which I think helped. Bottom line, keep it simple but consistent. I think initianally we tried too many things. Hopefully you’ll be able to resolve her issues before it gets pendulous and she’ll live her best chicken life for many years. I wish you and your girl all the best!

What did you use for worming? I have heard about diatomaceous earth. I supposed I should treat all the girls at this point just to be safe.

And is corid something I can get at my local feed store?

Thank you for your help!

 

[Relleoms]

What did you use for worming? I have heard about diatomaceous earth. I supposed I should treat all the girls at this point just to be safe.

And is corid something I can get at my local feed store?

Thank you for your help!

We alternate between fenbendazole & albendazole, no DE (there are many threads on its efficacy which I won’t get into, but I encourage you to browse through them!). The dose I use for valbazen is 20mg/kg, which for a 5 pound bird is 0.4ml, repeated in 10 days. The fenbendazole (Safeguard) liquid dose I use is 50mg/kg, which is 0.25ml/lb, five days in a row. And for the corid powder (I’d prefer the liquid but I have powder to finish) I use 1.5 tsp/gal water for 5 days, then again two weeks later for 3 days. In addition to it being their only source of drinking water, I also mix it with their feed to make mash. The fenbendazole and albendazole are directly dosed to the bird. (@casportpony has threads showing the math and with far more extensive dosing instructions-please review!) Safeguard liquid & Corid are available at tractor supply near the goat supplies! Albendazole can be ordered online.
This is what you’re looking for:
Fenbendazole (safeguard): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/merck-animal-health-safe-guard-dewormer-for-goats-125ml

Amprolium (corid): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/corid-20-amprolium-soluble-powder-10-oz (liquid is good, too!)

Albendazole (valbazen): https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=30e07949-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5

ETA: while it won’t hurt to treat your whole flock, it’s probably not necessary unless you have issues. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal float test done before treating...as a general rule

 

[LaurenDickens]

We alternate between fenbendazole & albendazole, no DE (there are many threads on its efficacy which I won’t get into, but I encourage you to browse through them!). The dose I use for valbazen is 20mg/kg, which for a 5 pound bird is 0.4ml, repeated in 10 days. The fenbendazole (Safeguard) liquid dose I use is 50mg/kg, which is 0.25ml/lb, five days in a row. And for the corid powder (I’d prefer the liquid but I have powder to finish) I use 1.5 tsp/gal water for 5 days, then again two weeks later for 3 days. In addition to it being their only source of drinking water, I also mix it with their feed to make mash. The fenbendazole and albendazole are directly dosed to the bird. (@casportpony has threads showing the math and with far more extensive dosing instructions-please review!) Safeguard liquid & Corid are available at tractor supply near the goat supplies! Albendazole can be ordered online.
This is what you’re looking for:
Fenbendazole (safeguard): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/merck-animal-health-safe-guard-dewormer-for-goats-125ml

Amprolium (corid): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/corid-20-amprolium-soluble-powder-10-oz (liquid is good, too!)

Albendazole (valbazen): https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=30e07949-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5

ETA: while it won’t hurt to treat your whole flock, it’s probably not necessary unless you have issues. It’s always a good idea to have a fecal float test done before treating...as a general rule

Thank you, Relleoms! It'd probably be a good idea to have this stuff on hand anyway. I am gunna monitor her a few more days and then I will try this. Do you think I should try the Acidified Copper Sulfate?

 

[Relleoms]

Thank you, Relleoms! It'd probably be a good idea to have this stuff on hand anyway. I am gunna monitor her a few more days and then I will try this. Do you think I should try the Acidified Copper Sulfate?

I’m sorry, I don’t have any experience with that to offer an opinion. As someone mentioned above, it would be a good idea to have your vet swab for bacteria to determine what is growing in her crop. Please keep us posted!!!

 

[LaurenDickens]

So, the crop bra seems to be helping support her, her crop has been empty in the morning. Even when it's empty though, it still feels squishy, like there's air or gas in there. Could it take some time for the stretched muscle and skin to get back to normal? She's still eating and drinking. I'm trying to wean her off of egg and wet food to see how she does with regular layer feed. Her poops have been very large and fairly runny. Normal color, but also very stinky. I'm going to see if the more solid feed helps to firm up her stools.

I took a selfie with her last night:

IMG_0060

• LaurenDickens
• Jan 11, 2019

 

[Wyorp Rock]

She's so cute!

So what you are saying is the crop still feels "doughy" in the mornings?
Have you read this:
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/impacted-slow-and-sour-crops-prevention-and-treatments

 

[MsPennysMum]

May I ask why the red wine? Surely this is toxic - like alcohol is to most creatures (including us) just thinking on top of all of her digestive concerns her liver would not be appreciating having to deal this.
I hope she is doing better. Crop issues are stubborn and frustrating.