snow in run

Pics
A-frame winter shelter, 12/12 slope, 6 mil poly tightly stapled, 2x3 rafters made from recycled 2x6 decking, 24" 3/8 ply base sheet. Re-used a door from a field pen.
We'll certainly find out soon enough how it holds up with a heavy snow dump.

Very nice. Looks like about 7 feet tall at the peak, is that right? How long are the rafters/sides? I don't see any wire/fencing underneath the 6 mil poly, I'm wondering if that will hold a build up of snow after a good dump? Wondering what is going to happen if the poly rips and there is no wire/fencing underneath the poly to keep the chickens in and the predators out?

I do like the design for it's simplicity and I'm thinking it would be easy to make the A-Frame out of modular panels. Easy to put up and take down by myself. I have enough scrap lumber laying around to build that A-Frame, so the cost to me would be minimal. Only need to buy some poly. The picture really helps me visualize a potential project. Thanks.

One thing I think I would change is that the A-Frame door is almost all the way down to the ground. I'm thinking of building my door at least 12 inches off the ground, so if we get a good snow dump, I'll still be able to shovel off the top layer of snow and get the door free. Sometimes we get freezing rain followed by snow, so a gate all the way to the ground might get frozen in. Also, I like the idea of a door that swings both in and out like the gate on my dog kennel.

Be sure to come back and post the results on how well your A-Frame design holds up to a good snow dump. My other option is a domed cattle panel hoop house, but I am hearing that they can collapse under a good snow fall. We get good snow falls where I live.
 
And I'll be running my 26hp kubota with a 63" snow blower by the front of the coop if and when things get too deep.

Oh man, wish I had something like that. :thumbsup

The door itself is 6 ft x 3 ft, so the peak is 7 1/2 ft (approx) from the floor. The rafters length is 11'0".

That's what I was looking for. Thanks.

An in-swing door would run into the feeder, likely. And 2-direction hinges are expensive and the door I used already had hinges. So no 2-way here.

I know. I like my dog gate on the kennel because it swings both in and out. But the only hinges I have are one way. The only important thing is having access. I don't think I would pay lots of extra money for 2-direction hinges either. Did not know how expensive they were, just liked the idea.

I'll put wire behind the poly near the ground (1st 3 ft.) of the door wall if the chickens wreck the poly. Otherwise I'm not too worried, yet, about predators in the winter, and they are locked into the pred-proof coop at night.

I am thinking about building the A-Frame inside my existing chicken run, so I guess I would not need anything extra for predator proofing. If the poly by itself is strong enough to shed the snow, then extra wire fencing support would not be needed in my case either.

I'll use my tractor with fork lift attachment to lift the winter structure away from the coop,

I don't have a tractor, which is why I'm thinking about making something modular that I can handle (put up and take down) by myself. I too just need something extra for the winter. Thanks for answering my questions.
 
Winter is here!! What’s the best way to keep snow out of my run? It’s partially Covered with plywood. Should I put clear tarps on the side for shelter? They will
Still want some sun. What’s my best option? Thanks!

Hmmm, my chickens must be as weird as myself. I'm in Northern Vermont, we've had good snow cover for about 3 weeks now, since early November this year (but next week should hit 50 degrees & rain Tuesday with 20 degrees Wednesday...) My chickens always go out free range, unless I lock them in, which I do when the temp or wind chill will be 10 belowF or so. I've got horses, so I've got sheds too, but the birds go everywhere. Of course, I am very careful to get cold-tolerant bird variants, it would be irresponsible to do otherwise.

I get a few new chicks each year, and they are always the last hens to leave the coop when it first snows. They look out the door, look at me, clearly give me a "WHAAAAAT?" look, then a few days later they are also outside. Compost scraps get dumped outside and who wants to miss the treats for too long just because of a little snow?!

So, I think chickens can easily learn to be snowbirds, but you must provide more feed, a draft-free coop (notice I didn't say heated), and expect fewer eggs. I just use a light on a timer starting mid-November, once most everyone has finished their molt cycle. It comes on early enough to provide 13 hours of daylight (barely able to read a newspaper brightness) I only provide supplemental heat when it drops to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and that's a single 70 to 100 watt incandescent bulb with a reflector way out of reach. If you heat the coop consistently, you put the birds at a disadvantage going outside since they can't put on sweaters...
 
Hmmm, my chickens must be as weird as myself. I'm in Northern Vermont, we've had good snow cover for about 3 weeks now, since early November this year (but next week should hit 50 degrees & rain Tuesday with 20 degrees Wednesday...) My chickens always go out free range, unless I lock them in, which I do when the temp or wind chill will be 10 belowF or so. I've got horses, so I've got sheds too, but the birds go everywhere. Of course, I am very careful to get cold-tolerant bird variants, it would be irresponsible to do otherwise.

I get a few new chicks each year, and they are always the last hens to leave the coop when it first snows. They look out the door, look at me, clearly give me a "WHAAAAAT?" look, then a few days later they are also outside. Compost scraps get dumped outside and who wants to miss the treats for too long just because of a little snow?!

So, I think chickens can easily learn to be snowbirds, but you must provide more feed, a draft-free coop (notice I didn't say heated), and expect fewer eggs. I just use a light on a timer starting mid-November, once most everyone has finished their molt cycle. It comes on early enough to provide 13 hours of daylight (barely able to read a newspaper brightness) I only provide supplemental heat when it drops to about 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and that's a single 70 to 100 watt incandescent bulb with a reflector way out of reach. If you heat the coop consistently, you put the birds at a disadvantage going outside since they can't put on sweaters...
Can I ask, which chickens do you have? I’m in NW PA and the winters are terrible, we’re in the snow belt on the tallest peak from this side of Miss river. Anyway..I’m in the process of choosing my next batch of chickens, and factoring in many things..hardiness is one. So, which type works for you?
 
North Dakota! Yikes, you should really consider a solid roof and something to keep the snow from falling/blowing into their run. We get a little snow, an inch or two a few times per winter so I elected to go easy and cheap. Only one end and one side of the run needed to be protected to keep all the snow out. I chose Dollar Tree clear shower curtains, with duct tape reenforcing the corners and grommets installed. I use a combination of snap rings(carabiner type) and wire to hold them in place. I feel a dry run is mandatory for the health and enjoyment of our girls. We let them out an hour or two per day for a supervised free ranging even when it is raining or snowing. The plastic also serves as a wind break during the winter which I assume the girls approve of.

Good luck!

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This is genius!! I put up three across the back of my run yesterday. We then got 2.5” of rain last night. Normally, today, I’d be out scraping wet bedding out of the run, because of the wind blowing it in. The sawdust isn’t even damp! Genius!!!
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Thx! The run is 36’x13’ and I just put as a wind break across 18’ of the back. It keeps the bedding dry but still plenty of ventilation
 

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