Solar Power in the Chicken House

[Scott]

Quote:
You rock! That is exactly what I need to ditch the inverter. And I bet you are right, it could be attached to the galvanized waterer. It says its adhesive, but I think it might be wise to reinforce the attachment. At only 10watts, that is EXACTLY what I need for my solar de-icer!

But it says: "Max. heat output is 300° F"!?!?

Surely the strip doesnt get that hot? That's just some kind of rating, right? I want to eliminate ice, not produce boiling water!

 

[cutlass1972]

Quote:
You rock! That is exactly what I need to ditch the inverter. And I bet you are right, it could be attached to the galvanized waterer. It says its adhesive, but I think it might be wise to reinforce the attachment. At only 10watts, that is EXACTLY what I need for my solar de-icer!

But it says: "Max. heat output is 300° F"!?!?

Surely the strip doesnt get that hot? That's just some kind of rating, right? I want to eliminate ice, not produce boiling water!

I dont think it will get the water that hot, it may get that hot its self but you are sinking the little 1x2" hot spot with gallons of water. I think it is just the ticket.

I also found this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1846k26/=5gjd1j

it is a little spendy but I think it is exactly what you need to only turn that little heat strip on only when you need it and it will not draw any power. Not to mention you will not have to spend any money on an inverter.

 

[Scott]

Quote:
You rock! That is exactly what I need to ditch the inverter. And I bet you are right, it could be attached to the galvanized waterer. It says its adhesive, but I think it might be wise to reinforce the attachment. At only 10watts, that is EXACTLY what I need for my solar de-icer!

But it says: "Max. heat output is 300° F"!?!?

Surely the strip doesnt get that hot? That's just some kind of rating, right? I want to eliminate ice, not produce boiling water!

I dont think it will get the water that hot, it may get that hot its self but you are sinking the little 1x2" hot spot with gallons of water. I think it is just the ticket.

I also found this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1846k26/=5gjd1j

it is a little spendy but I think it is exactly what you need to only turn that little heat strip on only when you need it and it will not draw any power. Not to mention you will not have to spend any money on an inverter.

How would that work?

 

[cutlass1972]

I am looking for a lesser expensive solution to the thermostat, but basically it it just a switch that opens or closes at a given temperature range. You would connect it in series with that little heat strip and you dial in the temperature you want it to turn it on at and it turns it abck off after it gets the probe up passed a certain temperature range. I am looking to see if I can find a simple thermostatic switch that will turn on at 40 degrees ferinhight and off again at like 45 degrees.

 

[Scott]

Quote:
That would be really great to be able to do that. Otherwise you would have to manually disconnect that heating strip when the temperatures were above freezing. I'm going to order that heating strip. The thermostat control would have to be low wattage. Like I said, I've got a 20 watt solar panel and 12volt battery. I am going to see if that is enough to power this concept. If not, I'll go larger with the panel and add an additional 12v battery. Keeping the devices low wattage is going to be key.... like that heating strip you found! You just helped me avoid the inverter, which I think would zap too much power from such a small system. I'm ordering that heat strip today!

 

[cutlass1972]

Quote:
That would be really great to be able to do that. Otherwise you would have to manually disconnect that heating strip when the temperatures were above freezing. I'm going to order that heating strip. The thermostat control would have to be low wattage. Like I said, I've got a 20 watt solar panel and 12volt battery. I am going to see if that is enough to power this concept. If not, I'll go larger with the panel and add an additional 12v battery. Keeping the devices low wattage is going to be key.... like that heating strip you found! You just helped me avoid the inverter, which I think would zap too much power from such a small system. I'm ordering that heat strip today!

You are definatly going to have to either get moer panels or put a thermostat on that little heat strip, your 20 watt panel is not going to be able to provide enought power to keep that strip going constantly day and night. I think more than likely if you can put a thermostat on it the strip will problbily only kick on a few times every day vs. running constantly.

Let me know if there is a minimum order or the shipping is astronomical, I would not mind having one to play with and I might split the order with you.

 

[cutlass1972]

WOO HOO! another excellent internet find! Here is a thermostatic switch for a freezer defroster. It cuts in at 35 degrees and out at 55 so when the temp drops to 35 degrees it will turn your little heat strip on and leave it on until the temp raises back up above 55 degrees! Also it is only like $12 shipped.

http://www.helpfulitem.com/product/WR50X55/GERefrigeratorDefrostThermostatWR50X55.aspx

 

[goodegg2010]

Wow! Between Scott's idea and Cutlass1972 finding parts from all over the web, this seems pretty close to being a viable path!

I would think that before you start to build it though you might want to list all the items that have to be included in the coop from the lighting, the heater, the voltage controller and even what if you included an auto door opener on a photocell (in another very good thread) using a cheap DC screwdriver.

Put all this in a table and make sure you have the capacity to keep your batteries charged for the times you need the draw.

Here is a 12V light www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/12v-dome-lights-double/6124

 

[Scott]

Quote:
The thermostat idea is great, but they are intended to work in a refrigerator. You're not thinking that these can be put in the water, right? Bare with me, but this thing measures the ambient air temperature, so it would kick on the heating strip when the air temp drops below 35? How would you wire it? I mean, from the battery but then you would have to wire to the heat strip. How would you do that if it is only intended to plug into to one wire in a refrigerator.

 

[goodegg2010]

I think you would have to wire it (the temp sensing switch) to a 12V relay like something for low voltage systems like alarms. Here is one that might work http://www.homesecuritystore.com/p-419-elk-912-relay-module-spdt-12-vdc.aspx