Solar power to run heated water drinkers, electric perimeter wire, and coop door.

[dsalling]

Hi all,

I’ve read all the posts about the dangers and cons of using extension cords to power coops. I’ve also read some posts about installing solar panels. I’m hoping to go off grid with our 2 coops and hoping I can get some advice. First, we have a few things that need to be powered:

*100 watt heated waterer - (winter only)
*Two 15 watt heated waterers (winter only)
*1 coop door time - 1 watt per hour for 24 watts
* hot wire for fence perimeter - about 5 watts
* 5 small fans each at about 39 watts each

So around 340 watts if my math is correct. I am no electrician and when it comes to this stuff, my eyes begin to cross and my nose bleeds. Even though I am not running all items at once depending on the season, does it make sense to go with a 400 watt solar panel with s battery backup? Thanks for any and all advice.

 

[Packy]

Following as I want to learn.

 

[Jakemedic]

Hello! I am not an expert on solar, nor do I play one on TV. With that said, I have looked into solar generators for powering my home furnace and a few lights, cell phone charging etc. From what I learned, that 400 watt solar panel you speak of can be used to charge a much larger battery pack. The battery needs to be 25-40% larger than the draw. It isn’t like water, where you can get everything out of the container. Battery technology has improved, but it is a classic case of you get what you pay for. My company of choice (no financial gain or business relationship with) would be eco flow. They have units for RVs that could meet your needs. I have not purchased a solar generator for financial reasons, but when I do, it will be from them.

I’m going to run a drop cord for my water heater today. From a GFCI outlet. I’m also introducing some artificial light early in the morning on a timer. My coop door is solar, but it’s slower than during the summer cause of much shorter days. It has a charging port that I am going to charge the battery to get it fully charged.

I am sure this is as clear as mud for you. Maybe reach out to one of the vendors and let them know your needs. They can fix you right up. Let us know how you do!

Jake

 

[dsalling]

Hello! I am not an expert on solar, nor do I play one on TV. With that said, I have looked into solar generators for powering my home furnace and a few lights, cell phone charging etc. From what I learned, that 400 watt solar panel you speak of can be used to charge a much larger battery pack. The battery needs to be 25-40% larger than the draw. It isn’t like water, where you can get everything out of the container. Battery technology has improved, but it is a classic case of you get what you pay for. My company of choice (no financial gain or business relationship with) would be eco flow. They have units for RVs that could meet your needs. I have not purchased a solar generator for financial reasons, but when I do, it will be from them.

I’m going to run a drop cord for my water heater today. From a GFCI outlet. I’m also introducing some artificial light early in the morning on a timer. My coop door is solar, but it’s slower than during the summer cause of much shorter days. It has a charging port that I am going to charge the battery to get it fully charged.

I am sure this is as clear as mud for you. Maybe reach out to one of the vendors and let them know your needs. They can fix you right up. Let us know how you do!

Jake

Thank you. I haven’t considered a solar generator. I think when I did look awhile back, they were fairly pricey. I was considering a solar kit with backup battery but I’ll take a peek at what they have.

 

[Mouthpear]

Hello! I am not an expert on solar, nor do I play one on TV. With that said, I have looked into solar generators for powering my home furnace and a few lights, cell phone charging etc. From what I learned, that 400 watt solar panel you speak of can be used to charge a much larger battery pack. The battery needs to be 25-40% larger than the draw. It isn’t like water, where you can get everything out of the container. Battery technology has improved, but it is a classic case of you get what you pay for. My company of choice (no financial gain or business relationship with) would be eco flow. They have units for RVs that could meet your needs. I have not purchased a solar generator for financial reasons, but when I do, it will be from them.

I’m going to run a drop cord for my water heater today. From a GFCI outlet. I’m also introducing some artificial light early in the morning on a timer. My coop door is solar, but it’s slower than during the summer cause of much shorter days. It has a charging port that I am going to charge the battery to get it fully charged.

I am sure this is as clear as mud for you. Maybe reach out to one of the vendors and let them know your needs. They can fix you right up. Let us know how you do!

Jake

Solar generators are not for this sorta stuff. No expert on them but thos ething are meant for camping and such. Not for long term usage.

 

[Mouthpear]

I haven’t considered a solar generator.

And you really shouldn't. As I explained above.

But there is a bigger issue to consider.

If it breaks or some part of it breaks, ur f'ed. You have to rely on a warranty they may or may not honor. So if the inverter goes out you can't just swap it out. plus if they do honor it, most likely you will have to send it in for repair. Now you are out the WHOLE system.


When it comes to these things you should not put all your eggs in one basket. If you build your own system you will not only learn about it but will also learn how to "fix" at least troubleshoot it so that you can replace things. Again if your inverter goes out you can at least replace it.

• Never depend on just one battery.
• be prepared to handle at least twice the load.
• Get yourself a proper crimper

• *100 watt heated waterer - (winter only)
  *Two 15 watt heated waterers (winter only)

  You don't need that much heat for water to not freeze. If you use Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and circulate that water. Heaters are a big draw on power. A small motor, circulation and Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze. Will will bring your power consumption way down. Plus a larger holding tank/drum helps. If you have room inside the coop keep it in there. keep it away from the wind.

• *1 coop door time - 1 watt per hour for 24 watts

  Do you mean Powering an automatic door? If so you are using way to much power. You can get that down to 300mamp for the entire day.

• * hot wire for fence perimeter - about 5 watts

  That should be totally separate. They sell little units with their own solar panels.

• * 5 small fans each at about 39 watts each

  Another thing that can be lowered by just making or altering the coop with better proper ventilation. Look into ridge cap vents. Also make sure that you use either PC fans, "barn" fans or dryer exhaust fans. A regular fan may cause a fire.

 

[dsalling]

Solar generators are not for this sorta stuff. No expert on them but thos ething are meant for camping and such. Not for long term usage.

Thank you for clarifying. Good point. So back to solar panels with inverter and backup battery. I’m just not sure how watts to go with. My partner thinks 200 watt solar panel should be sufficient.

 

[dsalling]

And you really shouldn't. As I explained above.

But there is a bigger issue to consider.

Is it breaks or some part of it breaks, ur f'ed. You have to rely on a warranty they may or may not honor. So if the inverter goes out you can't just swap it out. plus if they do honor it, most likely you will have to send it in for repair. Now you are out the WHOLE system.


When it comes to these things you should not put all your eggs in one basket. If you build your own system you will not only learn about it but will also learn how to "fix" at least troubleshoot it so that you can replace things. Again if your inverter goes out you can at least replace it.

• Never depend on just one battery.
• be prepared to handle at least twice the load.
• Get yourself a proper crimper
• 
  You don't need that much heat for water to not freeze. If you use Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and circulate that water. Heaters are a big draw on power. A small motor, circulation and Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze. Will will bring your power consumption way down. Plus a larger holding tank/drum helps. If you have room inside the coop keep it in there. keep it away from the wind.
• 
  Do you mean Powering an automatic door? If so you are using way to much power. You can get that down to 300mamp for the entire day.
• 
  That should be totally separate. They sell little units with their own solar panels.
• 
  Another thing that can be lowered by just making or altering the coop with better proper ventilation. Look into ridge cap vents. Also make sure that you use either PC fans, "barn" fans or dryer exhaust fans. A regular fan may cause a fire.

Thanks for your detailed reply. I use a Premier One heated drinker that keeps water from turning green because light cannot penetrate the container and because it relies on nipples the water stays clean. So, I'm not willing to switch out to a system that uses food grade antifreeze. I don't want to put the drinker (or food) inside the coops because that can lead to condensation in the winter resulting in frost bite to chicken combs. Since this is the biggest draw at about .1 KW per hour, I may look at setting that up on it's own system.

Regarding fans, we have windows on all sides of both coops for best air circulation as well as ventilation caps but with little shade from trees, it can get pretty hot in the summer. So definitely need to run a coop fans when chickens are laying eggs.

Regarding coop door - I have a manual door I can use, but have an automatic door and timer that I prefer to use. Good suggestion for considering purchasing a solar powered one. We did set up a small solar panel system for our garage door opener and that works well with a battery backup. It's just this project has a number of items that I want to run (even though not all at once.) and I wasn't completely sure how many watts the solar panel should be. Thank you for responding!

 

[Mouthpear]

Thank you for clarifying. Good point. So back to solar panels with inverter and backup battery. I’m just not sure how watts to go with. My partner thinks 200 watt solar panel should be sufficient.

Let me put it to you this way. You can always add more panels. That being said go with what you can afford and what you have room for. A 200 watt may be a good thing if you can get it a good cost but will it fit your surroundings.

The one thing that you really don't want to buy cheap is the charge controller. I am not saying buy the top of the line most expensive either. What I am referring to is PWM vs MPPT. While most PWM charge controller sellers, tell you that it will do all this and that, it only will ever do it "half arse". They only take the voltage the battery it rated for and dump the rest. The solar panel may be putting out 20 volts and 3 amps PWM will just use 14 volts and dump the rest.

While MPPT charge controllers are way more efficient. It take the extra voltage and converts it to amps.

So if you have 4 batteries and each battery need 1.5 amps to get a good charge you are only going to be putting out .75 amps per battery. Using the MPPT the excess will get used as current.

So if you are going to be taxing the system with heaters, you want to get the most out of the solar panels


Made a post on solar here.

Video on PWM vs MPPT

 

[Mouthpear]

So, I'm not willing to switch out to a system that uses food grade antifreeze.

There is no difference in using Food Grade Propylene Glycol Antifreeze and using Apple Cider Vinegar in any system. You can add it to anything. Just make sure to read the recommended amounts for whatever manufacturer you get it from.

I don't want to put the drinker (or food) inside the coops because that can lead to condensation in the winter resulting in frost bite to chicken combs.

In these to videos I show how my water ran through the coop out and back in. Nipples in and out. There were never issues with humidity. Ventilation is key.
Video
Video