Still needing advice. Please read!

Don't do anything until you hear from Celtic, but usually you do not up the humidity until external pip.

something i always been confused about myself

you say wait and i been told by others do it on lockdown

really would love to get a profesional opinion on when to actually up the humidy

on lockdown?

or

External PIP?
 
Humidity for waterfowl is not raised until INTERNAL pip is confirmed. Even more so with geese, than ducks.

Gotta ask are you candling the fat end or pointy end? It looks like you candle the pointy end to me. If so its no wonder you are confused on changes. Only candle by placing the light against the fat end of the shell so you can see the air cell development and if the hatchling has internally pipped.

Many people live by the old school methods of lock down 3 days before set to hatch, raise the humidity, stop turning, don't touch.

Myself and many many other very successful goose breeders do not follow that train of thought.
Goose eggs incubate on their sides the entire way through
They are turned 180* an odd # of times a day (3-5)
Candle at days 7/10 to check for growing eggs and mark the air cell
Candle at day 21 and mark air cell change from first candle
3 days before due to hatch, stop turning leave on their sides
Candle again at the 3 days before hatch date to check for early internal peppers

Now the hard part

ONLY candle every 4-6 hours to check for internal pipping
Once they internally pip stop handling, raise humidity to 70-80% and leave alone, don't touch the egg again.

When dealing with geese and artificial incubation it is best to have an incubator and a hatcher. Not all eggs will internally pip at the same time. Some incubators have hot and cold spots resulting in slightly off hatching of the goslings.

Hatchers are just an incubator with NO fan

This allows you to move the internal peppers to the moister environment.

Once eggs start externally pipping don't open the hatcher for love or money for fear of loosing humidity and possible shrink wrapping.
 
something i always been confused about myself

you say wait and i been told by others do it on lock down

really would love to get a professional opinion on when to actually up the humidy

on lockdown?

or

External PIP?

I've heard both too, though I choose to do it at external pip. My reason being that raising the humidity is done so that the gosling does not dry out during hatching. If it dries out it can shrink wrap or stick to the membrane. The gosling could also drown in the shell if the humidity is too high. I do it at external pip because 1. The gosling now has the chance to get fresh air and along with it get dry. 2. I figure my chances are better that it won't drown by not doing it until external pip. I weighed the odds in my mind and made a choice based on what I have read and comprehended.
hu.gif
 
Humidity for waterfowl is not raised until INTERNAL pip is confirmed. Even more so with geese, than ducks.
Gotta ask are you candling the fat end or pointy end? It looks like you candle the pointy end to me. If so its no wonder you are confused on changes. Only candle by placing the light against the fat end of the shell so you can see the air cell development and if the hatchling has internally pipped.
Many people live by the old school methods of lock down 3 days before set to hatch, raise the humidity, stop turning, don't touch.
Myself and many many other very successful goose breeders do not follow that train of thought.
Goose eggs incubate on their sides the entire way through
They are turned 180* an odd # of times a day (3-5)
Candle at days 7/10 to check for growing eggs and mark the air cell
Candle at day 21 and mark air cell change from first candle
3 days before due to hatch, stop turning leave on their sides
Candle again at the 3 days before hatch date to check for early internal peppers
Now the hard part
ONLY candle every 4-6 hours to check for internal pipping
Once they internally pip stop handling, raise humidity to 70-80% and leave alone, don't touch the egg again.
When dealing with geese and artificial incubation it is best to have an incubator and a hatcher. Not all eggs will internally pip at the same time. Some incubators have hot and cold spots resulting in slightly off hatching of the goslings.
Hatchers are just an incubator with NO fan
This allows you to move the internal peppers to the moister environment.
Once eggs start externally pipping don't open the hatcher for love or money for fear of loosing humidity and possible shrink wrapping.
sounds good.. I will let you know what happens. Thank you.
 
sounds good.. I will let you know what happens. Thank you.

Ok! I heard a noise and went in there and its wobbling a little. Im afraid to candle it. I don't want to mess anything up. Can I wait till I see a little hole on the outer shell and then raise the humidity or should I candle it carefully and see if its internally pipped then raise the humidity?
 
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I'd like to chime in on the controversial subject of when to raise humidity. I think the answer depends on your room's humidity. My bator room has a whopping average of 16% humidity. Removing every 4-6 hours to candle until external pip for me guarantees shrinkwrap... I have also found the longer I wait after internal pip, the greater chance of shrinkwrap. For me, when they are pressing into membrane (like Celtic's pic)... that is the time to put them in lockdown.

Goose egg, best of luck with your egg hatching!!!!
 

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