Texas

[RUNuts]

https://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=774
Based on these studies, Harvel Plastic, Inc. recommends that PVC and CPVC piping products (i.e. pipe, duct, & shapes) exposed to the direct effects of UV radiation be painted with a light colored acrylic or latex paint that is chemically compatible with the PVC/CPVC products. Compatibility information should be confirmed with the paint manufacturer. The use of oil based paints is not recommended.

And from another source:
Some PVC (PVC UVR) is UV resistant. The sunlight still damages the PVC pipe, but it is in a matrix of other chemicals that compete for the UV light (stealing it away from the would be damaged PVC). PVC UVR will degrade, but at a slower rate.

If you need light weight, PVC works but paint it even if you get the UVR grade for more cost. Many options available.

 

[RUNuts]

Plastic buckets have a similar issue. The 5 gallon hardware store buckets last outside for a couple of years. If you get the food grade buckets and use them outside, they don't last nearly as long.

The composition of the plastic determines UV resistance and life. I know too much about this. How much do you want to know?

 

[007Sean]

There is a black plastic pipe that is resistant to UV light. Comes in huge rolls. Thin walled pipe. I think it is used for irrigation purposes originally. For many years it was used on our ranch...about 1 mile run length from well to cabin. Only bad thing is it will freeze if exposed above ground...which is normally done in deep South Texas, because it rarely freezes.

ETA - being thin walled, it is vulnerable to abrasions if run on top of the ground. One reason we replaced it with PVC and ran it underground. Cows have a habit of stepping on it.

 

[RUNuts]

PVC piping = Adult tinker toys.

And I have seen some interesting creations.

 

[Derangedplanet]

PVC piping = Adult tinker toys.

And I have seen some interesting creations.

You seem like a handy/crafty guy. Ever made an incubator? I have a little hovabator. One of their top of the line thermostat ones but it doesn't have the fancy digital screen that goes with it. (I researched a bunch before I picked it, wanted best temp.control on a budget and didnt care about bells and whistles)
Anyways I'd like something bigger eventually. Dunno if I wanna wait for this to break and cannibalize it, or if I wanna build something from scratch.

 

[RUNuts]

You seem like a handy/crafty guy. Ever made an incubator? I have a little hovabator. One of their top of the line thermostat ones but it doesn't have the fancy digital screen that goes with it. (I researched a bunch before I picked it, wanted best temp.control on a budget and didnt care about bells and whistles)
Anyways I'd like something bigger eventually. Dunno if I wanna wait for this to break and cannibalize it, or if I wanna build something from scratch.

Seriously was considering it when a wonderful person from this site gifted me their old hovabator. It has met my needs and I really shouldn't build a larger one. My yard is small.

I did attempt to hatch 42 chickens at once. Lots of poop. I won't do that again. I only have 32 eggs in the incubator at this very moment. I want 6 hens but chicken math.

The amount of heat input has to be balanced with insulation (heat loss rate). So you may or may not need a larger heating element.

To answer your question, don't cannibalize a working unit. It will be your spare/hatcher. Resist the urge to fill both at the same time.

I find myself disliking the computerized stuff because you cannot fix it. Pull and replace only. No jumpers, no duct tape, it's just useless. And the replacement computer is 90% the cost of a new one, so buy a new one. If you save the old one for spare parts, the computer will break in the new one.

Sean suggest a dual setup model. Dual controls, dual heater and dual power. For expensive eggs like his pheasants, it is insurance and worth the investment. I'm hatching barnyard surprises, so minimal cost.

 

[007Sean]

Seriously was considering it when a wonderful person from this site gifted me their old hovabator. It has met my needs and I really shouldn't build a larger one. My yard is small.

I did attempt to hatch 42 chickens at once. Lots of poop. I won't do that again. I only have 32 eggs in the incubator at this very moment. I want 6 hens but chicken math.

The amount of heat input has to be balanced with insulation (heat loss rate). So you may or may not need a larger heating element.

To answer your question, don't cannibalize a working unit. It will be your spare/hatcher. Resist the urge to fill both at the same time.

I find myself disliking the computerized stuff because you cannot fix it. Pull and replace only. No jumpers, no duct tape, it's just useless. And the replacement computer is 90% the cost of a new one, so buy a new one. If you save the old one for spare parts, the computer will break in the new one.

Sean suggest a dual setup model. Dual controls, dual heater and dual power. For expensive eggs like his pheasants, it is insurance and worth the investment. I'm hatching barnyard surprises, so minimal cost.

I don't know of any manufactured duel thermostats/heating element, controllers incubators...GQF does use duel thermostats but single controllers.
If you want duel everything, you'll have to build it.
If they were mass produce, it wouldn't be feasible for the manufacturer, cost prohibitive.

 

[Derangedplanet]

Seriously was considering it when a wonderful person from this site gifted me their old hovabator. It has met my needs and I really shouldn't build a larger one. My yard is small.

I did attempt to hatch 42 chickens at once. Lots of poop. I won't do that again. I only have 32 eggs in the incubator at this very moment. I want 6 hens but chicken math.

The amount of heat input has to be balanced with insulation (heat loss rate). So you may or may not need a larger heating element.

To answer your question, don't cannibalize a working unit. It will be your spare/hatcher. Resist the urge to fill both at the same time.

I find myself disliking the computerized stuff because you cannot fix it. Pull and replace only. No jumpers, no duct tape, it's just useless. And the replacement computer is 90% the cost of a new one, so buy a new one. If you save the old one for spare parts, the computer will break in the new one.

Sean suggest a dual setup model. Dual controls, dual heater and dual power. For expensive eggs like his pheasants, it is insurance and worth the investment. I'm hatching barnyard surprises, so minimal cost.

I'm fairly well versed in insulation and heat per and whatnot. Reptile rescues are great at training for that. If I did "cannabalize" I'd like to think of a way to keep the old incubator intact, unless it breaks of course prior to me getting around to it. I was thinking of maybe something super simple like creating an insert in a foam cooler perfectly slotted for my hovabator top. Then maybe just toss a blanket over the top to increase insulation there. Or build a "lid" that goes over the lid that has a window on it to access controlls. I figure that and a usb fan would probably work well long as it was in a warmer room. Which my reptile room is often just below 80. Can you tell I've been thinking about this for a while? Lmao. I'm hatching 36 eggs this go. Will likely not hatch more than that. But I would like to be able to have more separation in breeds.

 

[RUNuts]

I don't know of any manufactured duel thermostats/heating element, controllers incubators...GQF does use duel thermostats but single controllers.
If you want duel everything, you'll have to build it.
If they were mass produce, it wouldn't be feasible for the manufacturer, cost prohibitive.

Apologies for misquoting you.

Agree, dual control is costly and in some cases worth it. But if the power goes out, you are still in the dark.

 

[007Sean]

Apologies for misquoting you.

Agree, dual control is costly and in some cases worth it. But if the power goes out, you are still in the dark.

No worries, I bought my first GQF Sportsman 1200 series. After studying how it was made, I then built 2 knockoffs of them for around $350 each.

The first Sportsman I bought was
around $475, with shipping it was just over $500, back in the 80's.

If power goes out...better have an UPS hooked up or have a seperate 12v system installed in the bator.