A few things I have wondered about.
1. chickens verses fire ants... I have seen no mention on this thread since I joined so does that mean they are not a problem?
2. Covered run... what type of material do you use??? Currently we have neon yellow plastic construction netting? I guess you would call it. Works great and seems to be strong, but it was a little pricey and not the most obscure choice. I have never had any predator problems so far, not sure if that is because everything is so secure or they haven't been discovered or what.
3. Is insulating a coop a good idea given the heat in Texas?? What type do you use if you do?
4. Along the same lines... How much ventilation do you have in your coop? If you have a lot, what do you change in the winter months?
5. I notice that many people have short runs like waist to chest height. Pros and cons?? Have you ever had to get to one of your birds and found this difficult?
I am sure I have more, but they have escaped my thoughts at the moment. Thanks in advanced for any comments.
1. Some chickens will eat ants. You'll want to make sure that the ants don't overrun a chicken and harm it - especially with chicks, weak/debilitated birds. Don't put ant bait out where chickens might get it.
2. If you want to predator proof, use smallest mesh welded/tied wire or hardware cloth for covered run. Might consider putting up metal or plastic roofing panels on the top for built in shade. For regular adult bird runs, we use welded wire and put shade cloth on the top, changing to a tarp over the wire during winter. We have one run that can stand alone (doesn't have to be connected to a coop) that is wired and also galvanized roofing panels over the top of it. The wire is to keep things like possums, skunks, coons from squeezing between the rafters because it is a peaked roof.
Just because you haven't had a predator problem means nothing. If your heart and/or wallet can't take a hit with dead chickens, cover the top of the run before something happens.
3. Insulating is not a bad idea, especially if you don't have any shade. We have very large chicken tractors (small sheds, big enough for people to get into) and put insulation in ours. Does keep the temp about 5-10* cooler than out in the sun. We used Styrofoam insulation panels cut to fit inside the wall studs of the coops.
You'll have to cover insulation to prevent the chickens from getting to it. So you'll have to figure in the cost of inside and outside walls. Regular fiberglass insulation would also work, depending on your construction and your chickens needs. You will definitely need lots of ventilation when you use insulation, to ensure that you don't get condensation on the inside of the coop during winter. Chickens can take very cold temps but you will see frostbite issues if there is condensation inside due to lack of ventilation.
4. LOTS of ventilation. If we were able to have a stationary coop rather than movable housing, we'd have things much more open. The old breeders recommend open air houses for best chicken health. The threat to the birds is having a lot of wind on them. So the old guys would have these houses that were open screen on one or two sides. During the winter, they would hang canvas/tarps in front of the roosts to keep the wind from hitting the birds while they slept, but otherwise it was open even with snow on the ground. The pictures of these open air houses in antique books are interesting.
We have windows and vents all over our coops. We made covers for them out of the siding we used on the houses. They are hinged. Most of the time they are chained open, to let the wind in. When it is cold or raining, we unhook the chains so they flop down over the opening. Plenty of air still gets through, but the wind doesn't blow directly on them or let the rain in when they are hanging down.
We staple plastic to the northern sides of the runs during winter, so they can be out in the runs without full winter blast on them. They love being in the runs when it is cold.
5. It sucks to have waist/chest high flat top runs. Trying to get chickens out of there when you need to, change food/water etc. is just miserable on your back. And it is hard to bend over or crawl around if you need to catch a chicken. We only have one like that, we hinged the top so technically we could stand up in there, but it turned out to be a pain in the butt so we just hunch over. And it is miserable.
Either have a 2 foot tall run that you can easily bend over and grab chickens or step into, or make a run that you can stand up completely in. We have some that are peaked, with walls at about 4 feet and a peak that goes up to 6 feet so we can stand up straight. Then we have some others that are flat topped at 6 ft. Either way, flat top or peaked, being able to stand up completely is MUCH MUCH MUCH better than having to bend over.
Our coops and runs on our chicken tractors seem huge, and they require at least the riding mower to move them because they are so heavy, but it is so much easier to do things when we can get inside without having to crunch ourselves up like we were playing Twister.