The 6th Annual BYC Easter Hatch-a-long!

Status
Not open for further replies.
I use a still air (older, shorter) Hovabator. I have to monitor the temp pretty constantly. I have to keep turning the knob down as the eggs develop. Which seems weird, because you'd think that the thermostat would keep it constant. It doesn't . Newer ones might be different.
Since having a 1- 2 hour cooling period each day is okay, then I don't think opening the incubator for a minute to turn is going to be a problem. I have heard that bacteria from skin oils can get into the eggs from touching them. I wash my hands before turning or candling. I've only had a few quitters, most of my bad hatches come from eggs not developing at all.
This is how I am..my hands are so dry while hatching..wash, wash, wash. Before .. and after. I must have the perfect room for my still bators. Keeping the temps right are a bit harder in the winter where we have the heater coming off and on, but I am here to watch most of the time... And, once I get that knob set, I only get a degree or two difference, that can be a problem in the very beginning, need to stay as close to where that incubator suggests during that first week and a half. Once they are developed, they can handle a temp change better.
KNOW your thermometer! If anyone is getting a new bator, that has the temp reading on the outside like a lot of the Hovas do..ignore that! Get your own, have it inside your bator. I suggest you don't use the one they send with the bator either. Some people know how to calibrate thermometers..maybe we can get some insight here from those that do, but if you can't the way that is suggested here, I like having two or three of the same thermometers and compare them all during a certain time of day. Are they reading the same? Have two that are reading the same and one doesn't? Go for those two. Simple way for me. I don't calibrate. I don't buy the cheap thermometers, nor the most expensive one out there, so this is the way I know I have a couple that are reading pretty close. After hand turning all of these years, I have come to the point where I can tell by touch. That, takes a while..don't try this at home..lol...until you've done a few hatches. I still go by my thermometer. Humidity isn't a concern for me during incubation as much as the temps. I keep my humidity around mid 30's during the incubation period. If you have the hova, keep one of the funnels filled is all. Humidity is very very important for lock down. I'm sure there will be a lot of talk and help when that time comes. For now, find a good thermometer, or two.
big_smile.png
The ones I use also have the place for reading the humidity.

Anyone else? For those that might want to find one to calibrate?
Or, what do you use that has worked for you?
 
Nate, sorry for your loss. No fun losing chickens.

We are really worried here in Utah...the bird flu! It's really close by..and in fact just had a case here in the state. This is really getting scary.
No signs of illness, they just drop. Turkeys and chickens. Our country has a lot of birds that migrate. Therein lies the biggest reason for us having this around us. Ducks can be carriers, but not die.
 
Maybe that is what took 20 of my birds last year because one second there fine next they stop eating then they die within 6 hours. Can pigeons carry??? We have a few that come in the barn during winter but i try to get rid of them
 
Looks like my English Orp eggs are going to be a week early so I won't be able to do the contests but I'll be following along anyway.

Maybe I'll still end up with a well timed broody that I just can't deny
fl.gif
 
My latest hatch is doing well. Got my humidity regulated staying around 50 to 53% most of the time.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom