wisher...
i am in need of BCMs for my easter egg run. will you have some to ship on march 25?
thanks
oz
i am in need of BCMs for my easter egg run. will you have some to ship on march 25?
thanks
oz
The Great Egg Shipping Experiment!
- Thread starter Wisher1000
- Start date
I agree... my Wisher chicks are healthy and huge, although not even close to being as big as Godzilla Chick. I will have to get a photo of Godzilla for you guys. I was hoping it was the Jersey Giant egg that I hatched, but it's growing out with feathering like a sussex, although still not right. I swear my "pure bred" chicks are anything but.
And I would let them sit at room temp and not moving for 12-24 hours only, then pop them in the incubator with the turner on. We all have different styles. I am sure it really doesn't matter in the long run, but I had a bad hatch where I got them from the mail and threw them right into the incubator. I don't know if it was shipping or incubating that caused the problem, but I just "play it safe" now and shipped eggs sit out for 12 hours, here. However, I've had great hatches where I pull eggs (from my own flock, not shipped) out of the fridge and pop them right into the bator. I assume the "rest" is more of the important thing than the temp.
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When do I throw out the remaining eggs and call it a day with these eggs? Monday was day 21 had one hatch. Yesterday was day 22 had seven hatch. Today is day 23. Do I clean it out tonight?
- Thread starter
- #684
I might..... will let you know........
She should have taken them to the Target Photo Center.
They wouldn't have done as good a job!
Wisher what you feeding these guys, body building supplements? LOL
I agree... my Wisher chicks are healthy and huge, although not even close to being as big as Godzilla Chick. I will have to get a photo of Godzilla for you guys. I was hoping it was the Jersey Giant egg that I hatched, but it's growing out with feathering like a sussex, although still not right.
SCG - Are you sure it's not one of mine? I had a monster in one of my hatches that was half again bigger than all the others up until he left for freezer camp at 7 months. He was colored like an SLW/BO/Birchen Marans. I'll see if I can find a pic......
As for the supplements, Bama1, turnip greens and cornbread, just like my boys!
ETA:
Here is that big boy I raised. We called him Dan, he just looked and acted like a Dan. The rooster behind him was from the same batch and had lacing on his chest like a SLW (and was MUCH smaller, although you can't really tell it in this pic.) There were two of the smaller ones that were almost identical,
I keep a close check on mine for stinkers, and leave them in at least 5 days past day 21 (that would be day 26, see, math whiz here,) I might leave them longer if some hatched late. When I have had eggs that went past 22 days, none hatched later so I felt comfortable tossing them at 26. I have not had any live embryos at eggtopsy past day 26.
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This was a discussion on the Heritage large breed thread:
Here are parts of that discussion on storing & hatching eggs, that I mentioned previously. I thought that I would repost it here, in case any one is interested. I thought the info might be useful to some of you. The poster was Bentley.
"I have done extensive research in egg storage, transport and incubation and I know that after 7 days, times is of the essence and any temperature change after eggs initially cool is detrimental. So FOR ME, getting eggs in the incubator as soon as possible after receipt is the way to go. I will prewarm eggs only if they are to be added to a setter that already contains eggs to reduce the temperature drop in the setter as it attempts to warm the new eggs.
...
Pre-warming hatching eggs does not need to be fast at all. As a matter of fact, the main reason you would pre-warm eggs is if they are going into an incubator that already contains other eggs. Again, you are just trying to prevent the OTHER eggs from damage or stress due to the possible cooling of the incubator when the new eggs that are cool are added. So, there really is not a benefit to the eggs being pre-warmed themselves. Think of the actual embryo, all it knows is that it's temperature is gradually increasing which increases cellular growth and development. There is an incubation time period of 21 days or 504 hours (this can vary several hours for different breeds or strains) so pre-warming counts as development. If some eggs pre-warm longer than others they may hatch at slightly different times. So, How pre-warming happens is not important as long as the pre-warming occurs for all eggs to be set uniformly....
You are correct, fertilization occurs a few minutes after ovulation then continues to develop until the egg is laid due to the body temperature of the hen. But I do want to make a point, that is a very important point. Embryo development does NOT STOP after the egg is laid nor at anytime during storage unless it dies. This is a living growing embryo and cellular development does not stop, it slows considerably. This is very important to remember when storing hatching eggs, it is STILL a living growing embryo that cooling just dramatically slows development not just an egg waiting to restart development. This is why temperature fluctuations during storage can be so damaging to embryo livability because the embryo will speed up and slow down development in accordance with changes in temperature and each speed up slow down adds stress to the 'suspended' embryo.
... I feel this is a very critical thing to understand when storing hatching eggs, it is living and still growing...
When an egg goes from cool to warm and humid condensation can happen rapidly and this can give any pathogens on the shell a medium in which to grow. However, from my experience per-warming eggs will not eliminate this.
Also, in my experience and research in storing hatching eggs 55 degrees is way too cold unless you have to store eggs for periods longer than 2 weeks and even then the best results aren't found at that cool of a temperature. For short term storage a constant 70 degrees is optimum. ... PM me if you are interested and I can give you some very specific information from research AND personal experience. There are many many scientific publications in this area that would bore most people here.
But, in that puny nut shell, dramatic changes in the temperature at which embryos are exposed is very detrimental to embryo livability and a CONSTANT (or as close as possible) temperature of 70 has been shown to achieve the objectives of egg storage without adding too much stress to the embryo which can result in embryo mortality during days 1-3 of incubation.
...
The best method to use, considering that most incubators can't adjust humidity like the big expensive machines is to check moisture loss, or weight loss of the eggs. Ideally, to get the best chick quality, an egg should lose 11-13% in weight from day of set until moved to the hatcher at day 18. Weigh the eggs before set then at transfer. If they lose too much weight then raise humidity by adding more water (surface area of the water). You an increase surface area of water to increase humidity bay adding a sponge or rag in the water. If they lose less than 11-13% then lower humidity to allow more moisture loss of the egg.
In general, I find the ideal humidity for most machines is about 82 F wet bulb or around 54-56% relative humidity."
Here are parts of that discussion on storing & hatching eggs, that I mentioned previously. I thought that I would repost it here, in case any one is interested. I thought the info might be useful to some of you. The poster was Bentley.
"I have done extensive research in egg storage, transport and incubation and I know that after 7 days, times is of the essence and any temperature change after eggs initially cool is detrimental. So FOR ME, getting eggs in the incubator as soon as possible after receipt is the way to go. I will prewarm eggs only if they are to be added to a setter that already contains eggs to reduce the temperature drop in the setter as it attempts to warm the new eggs.
...
Pre-warming hatching eggs does not need to be fast at all. As a matter of fact, the main reason you would pre-warm eggs is if they are going into an incubator that already contains other eggs. Again, you are just trying to prevent the OTHER eggs from damage or stress due to the possible cooling of the incubator when the new eggs that are cool are added. So, there really is not a benefit to the eggs being pre-warmed themselves. Think of the actual embryo, all it knows is that it's temperature is gradually increasing which increases cellular growth and development. There is an incubation time period of 21 days or 504 hours (this can vary several hours for different breeds or strains) so pre-warming counts as development. If some eggs pre-warm longer than others they may hatch at slightly different times. So, How pre-warming happens is not important as long as the pre-warming occurs for all eggs to be set uniformly....
You are correct, fertilization occurs a few minutes after ovulation then continues to develop until the egg is laid due to the body temperature of the hen. But I do want to make a point, that is a very important point. Embryo development does NOT STOP after the egg is laid nor at anytime during storage unless it dies. This is a living growing embryo and cellular development does not stop, it slows considerably. This is very important to remember when storing hatching eggs, it is STILL a living growing embryo that cooling just dramatically slows development not just an egg waiting to restart development. This is why temperature fluctuations during storage can be so damaging to embryo livability because the embryo will speed up and slow down development in accordance with changes in temperature and each speed up slow down adds stress to the 'suspended' embryo.
... I feel this is a very critical thing to understand when storing hatching eggs, it is living and still growing...
When an egg goes from cool to warm and humid condensation can happen rapidly and this can give any pathogens on the shell a medium in which to grow. However, from my experience per-warming eggs will not eliminate this.
Also, in my experience and research in storing hatching eggs 55 degrees is way too cold unless you have to store eggs for periods longer than 2 weeks and even then the best results aren't found at that cool of a temperature. For short term storage a constant 70 degrees is optimum. ... PM me if you are interested and I can give you some very specific information from research AND personal experience. There are many many scientific publications in this area that would bore most people here.
But, in that puny nut shell, dramatic changes in the temperature at which embryos are exposed is very detrimental to embryo livability and a CONSTANT (or as close as possible) temperature of 70 has been shown to achieve the objectives of egg storage without adding too much stress to the embryo which can result in embryo mortality during days 1-3 of incubation.
...
The best method to use, considering that most incubators can't adjust humidity like the big expensive machines is to check moisture loss, or weight loss of the eggs. Ideally, to get the best chick quality, an egg should lose 11-13% in weight from day of set until moved to the hatcher at day 18. Weigh the eggs before set then at transfer. If they lose too much weight then raise humidity by adding more water (surface area of the water). You an increase surface area of water to increase humidity bay adding a sponge or rag in the water. If they lose less than 11-13% then lower humidity to allow more moisture loss of the egg.
In general, I find the ideal humidity for most machines is about 82 F wet bulb or around 54-56% relative humidity."
I've candled eggs for developement, but what does a damage air cell look like?
- Thread starter
- #687
Interesting, Ron. Thanks for re-posting!
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Hi!
The air cell info is in the hatching 101 link in my signature. It contradicts the putting them in as soon as they warm up. I would compromise and let them rest for the 12 hours. I would not let them rest long if the shipping took 6 days. 5 days of collection plus 6 days of shipping = 11 days for the oldest eggs which will hurt development. One really needs to adjust for conditions.
Her is the information. For more, click on the link in my Signature!
UNDERSTANDING what goes WRONG with SHIPPED EGGS
The yolk of an egg is held in place on each end by what is called Chalaza. These are delicate cords that keep the yolk centered in the egg. When you crack open an egg, you notice a white stringy thing on the yolk, this is the Chalaza. When eggs are shipped they encounter postal handlers that toss the packages, sorting machinery, bumpy vehicle rides, temperature changes and possibly X-ray Machines! So by the time the eggs get to you they are pretty much scrambled inside. So if you are going to buy eggs and have them shipped to you, be aware that the viability drops TREMENDOUSLY. There are rare instances when they ALL arrive safely but it is always a gamble.
http://www.geauga4h.org/poultry/egg_parts.htm
The air cell info is in the hatching 101 link in my signature. It contradicts the putting them in as soon as they warm up. I would compromise and let them rest for the 12 hours. I would not let them rest long if the shipping took 6 days. 5 days of collection plus 6 days of shipping = 11 days for the oldest eggs which will hurt development. One really needs to adjust for conditions.
Her is the information. For more, click on the link in my Signature!
Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate, even with experienced hatchers!
It’s always best to get local eggs to get the best hatch rate. Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay. Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs! Look for your local site in the “Social section” “Where am I? Where are You!” on BYC.
BELOW ROLLING AIR CELL OF A SHIPPED EGG
Rolls like a Carpenters Level
Important Links to AIR CELL DAMAGE...
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate, even with experienced hatchers!
It’s always best to get local eggs to get the best hatch rate. Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay. Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs! Look for your local site in the “Social section” “Where am I? Where are You!” on BYC.
BELOW ROLLING AIR CELL OF A SHIPPED EGG
Rolls like a Carpenters Level
Important Links to AIR CELL DAMAGE...
- Air Cell Info for Incubation,
- http://www.squidoo.com/mailed-shipped-fertilised-chickens-eggs-fertilized-hatching-chicken-egg
- Management of Damaged and Mal-positioned Egg Air Cells,
- https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/501034/suggestions-for-management-of-damaged-and-mal-positioned-egg-air-cells
- Getting the most from your eggs,
- http://skeffling.hubpages.com/hub/Chicken-Incubators-and-getting-the-most-chicks-from-your-hatching-eggs
UNDERSTANDING what goes WRONG with SHIPPED EGGS
The yolk of an egg is held in place on each end by what is called Chalaza. These are delicate cords that keep the yolk centered in the egg. When you crack open an egg, you notice a white stringy thing on the yolk, this is the Chalaza. When eggs are shipped they encounter postal handlers that toss the packages, sorting machinery, bumpy vehicle rides, temperature changes and possibly X-ray Machines! So by the time the eggs get to you they are pretty much scrambled inside. So if you are going to buy eggs and have them shipped to you, be aware that the viability drops TREMENDOUSLY. There are rare instances when they ALL arrive safely but it is always a gamble.
http://www.geauga4h.org/poultry/egg_parts.htm
- Feb 15, 2013
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ETA:
Here is that big boy I raised. We called him Dan, he just looked and acted like a Dan. The rooster behind him was from the same batch and had lacing on his chest like a SLW (and was MUCH smaller, although you can't really tell it in this pic.) There were two of the smaller ones that were almost identical,
Wisher, Just what does a Dan look & act like?
Dan
Here is that big boy I raised. We called him Dan, he just looked and acted like a Dan. The rooster behind him was from the same batch and had lacing on his chest like a SLW (and was MUCH smaller, although you can't really tell it in this pic.) There were two of the smaller ones that were almost identical,
Wisher, Just what does a Dan look & act like?
Dan
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