The IMPORTED ENGLISH Orpington Thread

[thedragonlady]

I was worried about the size. He is total cuteness though. Of the 12, five have tail feathers and body length wing feathers. The others are a bit larger in size and have no interest in feathering out. I was suspicious that I ended up with 5 hens and 7 roos!...oh my... No worries though. My goal/dream/hope was to have 4 hens and to have a rooster and a spare.

Thank you for helping.

If someone has time, one more question.

Given the Orp size, how many could I comfortably house in a 4 x 8 coop?

Is this just a coop building to sleep in? A 4 x 8 will sleep 12 if you put perches on both sides with nest boxes below a shelf. I prefer roosts on 2 sides, just in case you add a few younger birds. The older ones won't let the youngsters sleep next to them until they are grown, and really integrated into the flock. Crowding makes stress, and stress in not a good thing.

I just added 2 more covered chain link runs that each measure 10 x 10'. I plan to house no more than 4 birds in each run. They will also have outside paddocks to forage in during the day. I am using 2 1/2 deep x 4'1/2 wide x 3'1/2 tall double walled equipment storage boxes with roost poles. These boxes came from Lowes. They have 2 front doors and pop up roofs , so in summer I leave 1 door open, and pop the roof up when it's really hot. My clever Husband cut a scat hole door in one of the doors, and mounted the boxes 2' off the ground , with ramps .Under the boxes is surrounded by plywood on the back and sides , so I can put their dusting sand and 2 nest boxes below. Bear in mind that I am using these in ROOFED runs, so the Orps' feed and water are outside their roosting boxes. These would work for you since you live in S. Ga., as they are very easy to ventilate as long as they are shaded. 2 runs would also keep your boys much happier too!

 

[deek]

Have to wait to see if we can get them first Then we will tell

Patience is not one of my virtues

(Ask my husband)

 

[deek]

Is this just a coop building to sleep in? A 4 x 8 will sleep 12 if you put perches on both sides with nest boxes below a shelf. I prefer roosts on 2 sides, just in case you add a few younger birds. The older ones won't let the youngsters sleep next to them until they are grown, and really integrated into the flock. Crowding makes stress, and stress in not a good thing.

I just added 2 more covered chain link runs that each measure 10 x 10'. I plan to house no more than 4 birds in each run. They will also have outside paddocks to forage in during the day. I am using 2 1/2 deep x 4'1/2 wide x 3'1/2 tall double walled equipment storage boxes with roost poles. These boxes came from Lowes. They have 2 front doors and pop up roofs , so in summer I leave 1 door open, and pop the roof up when it's really hot. My clever Husband cut a scat hole door in one of the doors, and mounted the boxes 2' off the ground , with ramps .Under the boxes is surrounded by plywood on the back and sides , so I can put their dusting sand and 2 nest boxes below. Bear in mind that I am using these in ROOFED runs, so the Orps' feed and water are outside their roosting boxes. These would work for you since you live in S. Ga., as they are very easy to ventilate as long as they are shaded. 2 runs would also keep your boys much happier too!

4 x 8 sleeping quarters. Great suggestion to have perches on both sides. That will not be a problem. Protected run 12 x 12 ft (chain link kennel with hardware cloth apron, sides and top hardware cloth, plus hot wires @ 4in and 8 inches) for them to exercise in when I can't watch them. Might add a hot wire on the top since it is under a Red Maple and predators can jump from the tree onto the roof. I work from home and plan on them free ranging in a fenced area that is approx an acre. Two Old English Sheepdogs will help watch them. I have plenty of room when I am home watching them. The issue is when I am away.

I'd love to see a picture of your runs and the storage boxes when possible, please. Yes, in S, GA our concern is the heat. I have shady areas with hardwoods that I could incorporate as well. I can't see having too many of these gentle giants in a 12 x 12 run though. Maybe Craig's list will have another kennel. I could also call a friend that owns one of our local hunting plantations. Thanks for the help.

 

[fowlman01]

Oh boy... eight months. I like that. More time to spend with them!

The one thing I NEED is a rooster that doesn't challenge me or any neighborhood children. I am one of those children that was attacked by a rooster as a child. To this day have scars from where he dug in his spurs. Didn't stop the bloodshed for quite a while since this happened at a neighbor's house after I'd jumped over her fence. The only way to get him off of me was with a tree limb that my dad used as a club. For weeks I had bandaged legs oozing yucky stuff. Later as a teenager I was a bit embarrassed at the beach since the scars were still visible. My roosters will have to be gentle giants.

I need to study English type standards. Not sure where to read about those. I've searched online.

Color, well, that will be totally a whimsical choice for me. I'm breeding for backyard "models" that will be worthy of an oil painting.

My babies are from Greenfire. They used two separate lines. With 12, I'm hoping I have representation from both lines. I plan on initially inbreeding of course. Then, hopefully line breed one rooster line (father /daughter) and one hen line (mother/son). Maintaining two flocks. After f3 or f4, I plan on breeding the two lines together, and starting over. This is what I have done with dogs. Hopefully, I can verify that plan of action for chickens. Someone please correct me if I am wrong!! I hope to wait until there is a flaw in health or vigor before I introduce another separate line. This will give me time to establish the traits that I like in the line. Yes, I've already emailed Marc. Very nice person. He recommended the same plan of action that you've mentioned.

Oh my...Blue Laced Gold...my paintbrush is ready!!

I'm only two weeks into these babies and I already see an expansion

Will have to sell more paintings to pay for it!!!

Well, for now, back to cleaning a poopy brooder and trying to figure out why they enjoy wasting the very expensive organic feed

Thanks for the advice Jeremy.

Generally anything you learned in dogs doesn't apply to chickens, but I would do the breeding the same way you are. That is the best way to get them looking like they were cloned IMO..that's how I do all my matings because once I have them I don't want to add anything else unless I run into a brick wall.

Some people don't agree with that type of matings in chickens, but I have been very successful doing it that way for more years than I care to remember.

Walt

 

[deek]

Generally anything you learned in dogs doesn't apply to chickens, but I would do the breeding the same way you are. That is the best way to get them looking like they were cloned IMO..that's how I do all my matings because once I have them I don't want to add anything else unless I run into a brick wall.

Some people don't agree with that type of matings in chickens, but I have been very successful doing it that way for more years than I care to remember.

Walt

Thank you Walt. Maybe it will work. Adding a new line would need assessment and fine tuning. Sort of starting over in a way. But, I will definitely do so when/if I see a problem popping up.

 

[jeremy]

I'm glad to see so much life in this thread again, keep it up everyone!

 

[thedragonlady]

Generally anything you learned in dogs doesn't apply to chickens, but I would do the breeding the same way you are. That is the best way to get them looking like they were cloned IMO..that's how I do all my matings because once I have them I don't want to add anything else unless I run into a brick wall.

Some people don't agree with that type of matings in chickens, but I have been very successful doing it that way for more years than I care to remember.

Walt

Walt is RIGHT. The nice thing about breeding poultry is that you can breed phenotype ( what you see) , rather than breeding pedigrees ( genotype). However, the first time you keep and breed anything that is related to some "rich and famous" bird, that does not resemble what you want to breed, just because it is related ; you are in trouble Take it from an old dog and poultry breeder : throw out the pedigrees, and breed the birds. Much more fun, and vastly more rewarding.

 

[Renie'sPeeps]

Walt is RIGHT. The nice thing about breeding poultry is that you can breed phenotype ( what you see) , rather than breeding pedigrees ( genotype). However, the first time you keep and breed anything that is related to some "rich and famous" bird, that does not resemble what you want to breed, just because it is related ; you are in trouble Take it from an old dog and poultry breeder : throw out the pedigrees, and breed the birds. Much more fun, and vastly more rewarding.

Good to know Sounds like words of wisdom

 

[deek]

Walt is RIGHT. The nice thing about breeding poultry is that you can breed phenotype ( what you see) , rather than breeding pedigrees ( genotype). However, the first time you keep and breed anything that is related to some "rich and famous" bird, that does not resemble what you want to breed, just because it is related ; you are in trouble Take it from an old dog and poultry breeder : throw out the pedigrees, and breed the birds. Much more fun, and vastly more rewarding.

I was very fortunate to start with a VERY recognized breeder for Old English Sheepdogs. I chose her dogs after I had created an extensive spreadsheet of her dog's pedigree. The spreadsheet was several pages long containing documented health registers for eye and hip. The two leading problems in the breed. She would not finish a dog unless they passed these health screens. I paid top dollar for my pup. But I thought I was paying for a good chance of having healthy dogs.

She bred for genotype. After all, her dogs consistently place at Westminster. My pup, and later her pups, would/could be recognized and identified, from a distance, as her dogs- her line. You could see it in their famous gait, in their coat, and perfect build. This was because of the extensive line breeding. She bred for genotype perfection consistently. If her pups did not meet HER standard of perfection or/nor pass the health screenings, the pups were sold as pets and were not allowed to be bred nor registered under her line. As an owner of one of her dogs, under contract, you were allowed to finish the pup, but not breed it until she visually confirmed that they met her standards. Once your pup received their championship title, you were allowed to continue her line as you saw fit but it would be registered under your new line. This way, any mistakes that you made, were due to your inexperience and not her pedigree/line.

I want a healthy strain/line of Gold Laced Orps. Doesn't everyone? There aren't that many around (yet). I might be wrong, and I hope the experienced will mentor my decisions, but if I breed only those exhibiting health, vigor, and resistance (phenotypes) than these traits will likely show up in the chicks. I paid top dollar for these little guys. Hopefully the money invested has given me a good foundation flock. And as "the dragon lady" has pointed out, when a problem shows up, it needs to be addressed. I'm assuming by selective breeding and perhaps out crossing. I hope that by the time a new "stud" comes to my backyard, I will have had the privilege of getting to know the breeders in this forum and they will give me the opportunity to add their line to the Greenfire line. Maybe by then I will have learned about the English Standard of these beautiful Orps. (This is a personal preference and an option since I do not plan on showing.)

Yes, this time around, I am breeding for ME. It WILL be fun, and hopefully challenging. I have no desire to breed professionally. My goal is to have a self sustaining flock that will provide eggs, meat if it becomes necessary, and believe it or not companionship. While doing so, with all of your help, I also hope to have a flock that is beautiful. Thank you 'dragon lady", I plan on breeding the bird. And, thank you Walt for at least reassuring me.

I appreciate all of you,
Dee

 

[Margitas]

Would these birds be considered "Red" Partridge?

Hens looks like red partridge but the roo comb looks more cochin than orp