Think it's too cold for your chickens? Think again...

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We didn't know what we didn't know either... As far as the heat on the chicks... See my page for our philosophy.

I figure as long as I am never too old (or stubborn) to learn, and am always willing to ask a question, We'll do ok.
 
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Thats true!
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I brooded my chicks inside my cabin because of the cold. The dust was horrible, it was EVERYWHERE! But it did cost less than brooding them in the barn/shed. Other benefits, they got handled more often, the dog got accustomed to the chicks and learned proper behavior (sort of), the cat also to some extent.

You are brave to start them in March, I waited longer...
 
I live in Maine, and it gets really cold. I don't insulate the chicken coops and I don't heat their coops. The grow really nice thick feathers and down and snuggle up together on their perches. I even open windows a crack during the day to help keep the moisture from their droppings in check. They can go out into their pen if they so desire, I put feed and water out there for them so they do get fresh air.

My horses, dogs and goats have run in type set ups, just like the chickens. They all do great in the winter, I'm the wimp who hates the cold.
 
Since my last post I've changed my mind. I think I'll start them in the coop, restrict them to the half coop away from the man door with a plywood divider, and hang a heat lamp for them. They'll be able to move around to where they're comfy. And while they're inside the coop being comfy, I'll be just outside working on fencing in a generous run!

I'll be wearing my insulated carharts and shoveling the snow off the fence line!!!
 
32F and snowing here on the Peninsula this morning. I'm hearing reports from the Fairbanks folks that they're in the single digits (above and below zero) and are doing a fine job of resisting the urge to put heat on the birds.
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As with all things, you have to take into consideration your OWN conditions when making decisions about your birds, whether it's space requirements, heat, feed, housing... I don't want to come across as the "heat nazi"... someone with 3 bantams in Antarctica will have different requirements than someone in Ecuador. Someone in Arizona will have different conditions than someone in Minnesota. The "rules", such as brooding temps, are merely guidelines. We have people living here in AK that don't have running water or electricity. They're going to have to come up with a different way to brood chicks without a broody hen, because even in the summer temps aren't that warm. Someone in Arizona might have to add air-conditioning to keep their chicks from dying in the summer. LOL! Think about the number of birds, size, age, weather, and make adjustments accordingly. There is really no "one-size-fits all"... I think the point this thread is trying to make is to wait to add heat until the birds need it, not before.
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Depending on the temperature you might need two heat lamps. It will cost more to brood them in the coop because of the electricity, but there won't be all that dust in the house which is a plus. :)
 
Mrs. AK-Bird-Brain :

32F and snowing here on the Peninsula this morning. I'm hearing reports from the Fairbanks folks that they're in the single digits (above and below zero) and are doing a fine job of resisting the urge to put heat on the birds.
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As with all things, you have to take into consideration your OWN conditions when making decisions about your birds, whether it's space requirements, heat, feed, housing... I don't want to come across as the "heat nazi"... someone with 3 bantams in Antarctica will have different requirements than someone in Ecuador. Someone in Arizona will have different conditions than someone in Minnesota. The "rules", such as brooding temps, are merely guidelines. We have people living here in AK that don't have running water or electricity. They're going to have to come up with a different way to brood chicks without a broody hen, because even in the summer temps aren't that warm. Someone in Arizona might have to add air-conditioning to keep their chicks from dying in the summer. LOL! Think about the number of birds, size, age, weather, and make adjustments accordingly. There is really no "one-size-fits all"... I think the point this thread is trying to make is to wait to add heat until the birds need it, not before.
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I am one of those Alaskan folks without water. Every drop is precious, which means regardless of anything else, the waterer *has* to be heated enough to keep the water thawed. Otherwise, I end up breaking up ice and tossing it. :-(
It was frozen this morning and I'm trying to salvage at least some of it, have the waterer inside the cabin upside down in front of the Monitor heater.
On the bright side, the chickens are waaaaay cleaner than the ducks and geese I used to have.
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I am one of those Alaskan folks without water. Every drop is precious, which means regardless of anything else, the waterer *has* to be heated enough to keep the water thawed. Otherwise, I end up breaking up ice and tossing it. :-(
It was frozen this morning and I'm trying to salvage at least some of it, have the waterer inside the cabin upside down in front of the Monitor heater.
On the bright side, the chickens are waaaaay cleaner than the ducks and geese I used to have.
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Oh yes... I won't do water-fowl any more... it's just too much work in the winter with my setup, and not fair to them. The chickens are happy with a bale of hay to play in.
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Keep sharing temps/stories.
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Thanks for the tip, Toofarout, and yeah, for the first several weeks, a little extra electricity won't hurt me. It'll depend on the weather. As us Fairbanksans know, it can be anywhere from 30 below to 50 above in March! Fortunately, it's a smallish coop, less than 4x8, and it's insulated, which will help. But in the house? We have enough construction dust as it is! And a cat.... and four dogs.....
 

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