~*Third Annual Cinco de Mayo Turkey Hatch-Athon*~ all poultry welcome!

Eekk the eggs i ordered are a day overdue
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And it was in the 40ies yesterday what do i do
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?
The 40's isn't any problem for them. I'd only worry if it got below freezing for a sustained period of time and they were sitting outside on a really cold surface.
 
I think its to late to do anything to mine. They are due to hatch on the 19th. What percentage of weight loss should they have at lock down? I candled last night and all are wiggling.  I'm using a Brinsea Mini Advanced and through hatch ave kept water in one of the reservoirs per the instructions. It said to fill both sides. Its my first time using this incubator.  


The are supposed to loose 13% by hatch.

I have been weighing the entire tray, so the risk of dropping is way low. After lots of looking I finally found a good web page explaining it all. (On other computer, I will post link later).

But, I think weighing is lots better than simply watching the size of the aircell. You can weigh the tray every three days, or even every day and so make tiny adjustments all throughout the incubation process.

Obviously, you weigh the empty tray, then fill with eggs, weigh again.
 
I think its to late to do anything to mine. They are due to hatch on the 19th. What percentage of weight loss should they have at lock down? I candled last night and all are wiggling. I'm using a Brinsea Mini Advanced and through hatch ave kept water in one of the reservoirs per the instructions. It said to fill both sides. Its my first time using this incubator.
Not too late.

Don't increase the humidity for hatching if the air cells are not big enough-- the chicks/poults will drown if there is too much fluid still insid the eggs so hold off on increasing humidity. ( I have many hatch while still in my low humidity incubator, bcause I for got to move them to the hatcher.)

I have used A/C to draw out the moisture with much sucess. A dehumidifier put too much heat into the room and the temp in my LG started to rise, if any thing more time is needed, so a slight decrease in temp would help. I don't mess iwth my temps as it is too hard to get right.

INCREASE ventilation as much as possible.
 
Ok I have a question? My little sweetgrass hen has started laying eggs. She has no tom with her. If I was to get a tom to breed her would she get any fertile eggs in the up and coming days? Plus how long does one or 2 breedings last.
Or would it be better to let her go broody than buy eggs to put under her because the only tom available is a 1/2 breed BR/Slate blue I think she said.
Oh yes I set eggs yesterday with turkey eggs. Lots of Amerucana/EE wheaten colored and my turkin/ cochin bantam cross, plus test eggs from my pure silver lace wyandottes and salmon favs to see if they are fertile. Of yes I set some 1/2 crested cream bars/ brown leghorn . Boy I need a introversion, what a fun addiction .....Chickys

everywhere.


all chicks have feathered legs the cochin bantam must have strong genes. so curious what they will look like when grown.....
Too cute-- you can do either Sue. All depends on your goals. If you want pur sweetgrass, then buy eggs (my girls are laying now) or if you want to try your hand at a few fertile go for the boy next door. Once she is bred sucessfully, her eggs will be fertile until the supply runs out. I don't know the limit in turkeys but in chickens it is a few weeks, though some eggs will not get fertilized as the days go on after the mating. But you will get some fertilized eggs. I'm happy to ship you some if you want. Of course I wouldn't be a true enabler unless I said do BOTH !!! lol

Quote: Eggs will be fine. Eggs don't start developing until they are at 85 degrees so 40 is perfect to hold them.

A couple years ago a shipment to UT was lost and it took 4 days for the eggs to show up-- lady had a wonderful hatch rate. So hang in there. WHen the eggs arrive, set everything that is not crack or broken. (Hopefully none are, but you know the USPS handling .) Set them upright and let the air cell heal. And as they develop, I don't throw out blood rings either until I am certain the eggs is not black during candling when it should be.

Deep breath.
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I did weigh them before I started them. I will get weights this afternoon when I get home and see what the difference is. I also traced the beginning air sack. I usually lock my still air down a day early because I have early hatchers. should I stop the turner on this one early as well?
 
Quote: Just be careful-- I know someone that dropped a WHOLE tray of hundreds of eggs while getting weights. ANd I do agree with you , if some one has reasonable math skills and a suitable scale, this is the way to go. Because I have candled and hatched a lot of eggs now , I can look at an aircell and know how it is doing.

I filled my LG and the humidity is not low enough for the cornish X eggs. SO my plan is to remove all eggs that I can go in my other incubator and hopefully dry these down enough. FIngers crossed.
 
From everything that I have read, stopping turning a day early is no big deal. The turning is super important in the beginning of the incubation, not so much the day before lock down.
 
Just an FYI I am sure to be gone from the thread as all three Turkey are clears and confirmed now.
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I wish everyone the best with their hatches!
 
I did weigh them before I started them. I will get weights this afternoon when I get home and see what the difference is. I also traced the beginning air sack. I usually lock my still air down a day early because I have early hatchers. should I stop the turner on this one early as well?
Stopping the turner early is no problem. In some units stopping the turner will also decrease the heat a bit which might be what you need right now. Sounds like your incubator runs a little hot.
 

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