Tractor/trailer coop build

I would love to build my new coop on a trailer! My chickens have been on rotating pasture since Aug. They're currently rotating more slowly to till more gardening beds.

One thing to mention is it may be beneficial not to think of a "north" side. If you have much slope on your property then you won't always be able to use the same orientation. This may not be a drawback, though. I can spin my coops on wheels around to increase or decrease sunlight. Or if a storm defies our prevailing winds.

Being able to get your coop more or less level, and your wheels not pointed downhill will be important.
 
Awesome stuff. Yes, I plan to do a galvi corrugated roof. Still concerned with sail issue, but it may be ok. Definitely taking suggestions, and listening to others experiences.


You need to decide how much wind you want to be willing to resist. Ultimately, due to hurricane risk, I tied my structure to the ground (hurricane ties, screws, concreted footers), then decided that the metal roofing itself would be "sacrificed" in the case of extreme wind loads. Used #9 rubber washer "TEKS" sharp point screws x 1 1/2" length. Its not quite sufficient to get 3 thread penetration thru (not "into", thru.) the 5/4" x 6 PT Boards I used as purlins, but is suitable for the typical 1x4" purlins. My spacing was roughly 2' oc,, meaning there are 15 screws per 2'x8' metal panel.

This is a good reference, though it covers techniques you don't need to know, it will show you proper screw placement, which is critical.

Ultimately, because I used thin guage 5v style metal roofing panels, the roof metal will likely fail before the screw does - I imagine curled up pieces of sheet metal with screw head sized holes ripped in it. What exactly the actual failure load is??? I don't know. I've yet to find a good chart. We've taken gusts over 60mph here with no issues, but thankfully no actual hurricanes. and no sustained straight line winds over 40 mph.

I'm simply following MFG instructions, and trusting them. Next failure, I'll do it better if needed and cost effective to do so.

/edit my error, I used #12 - more (marginally) holding strength, due to a larger head size, and greater sheer resistance due to thicker shaft. It helps to set the screw in place with a hammer, then finish setting with a drill if you aren't fortunate enough to have an impact driver.
 
It helps to set the screw in place with a hammer, then finish setting with a drill if you aren't fortunate enough to have an impact driver.

At this point, if we owned only one power tool we might pick the impact driver.

Though the idea of owning only one power tool is inconceivable to any person on either side of the family.
 
I'm concerned about the ventilation.

Traditional windows appeal to human ideas of aesthetics, but what you really need is big wire vents up at the top and bottom of the roof slope, even including the gable triangles -- protected by generous roof overhangs. One square foot of 24/7/365 ventilation per adult, standard-sized hen.

If you do go with traditional windows, you want the top-hinged kind that are their own awnings.


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i could leave a 12" gap 8feet long on both sides.
 
That's a great idea!

My outdoor brooder is built that way -- with awnings over the vents.

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a faulty hvac system tried to ruin my life, fought thru, and will get back to this chicken project shortly.

of course it started crapping out in the middle of the blizzard, long 3 days :rolleyes:

hope you all are making out ok :)
 

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