URGENT!!! SICK DUCK! PLEASE HELP

[casportpony]

sorry. The thread is really long and I'm working on it. Would you mind making a list of what I might need if the tubing option is the only one left? I would really appreciate it then I could get everything while I'm at the store. Thank you

I know the thread is long, but it does cover all of the topics mentioned here in your thread.

The list:

• Aquarium air line, 16" should do.
• As large a syringe as you can find, something in the 30-60 ml range would be best, but if you cant find one that big, get several smaller ones, like 5 or 6 10 ml.
• Kaytee Exact Baby Bird Food
• Scale - either a kitchen scale, a bathroom scale, or a luggage scale. Note that a kitchen scale might only weigh up to 5 lg, so if she's a big, fat duck it might not work.

Make sure the syringe you get will fit in the end of the tube.

 

[C0987]

I will continue to read the thread hopefully I won't need them but I will pick up the supplies I can find.

Thank you everyone for your help.

 

[Miss Lydia]

Please let us know how she is doing please.

 

[casportpony]

You mentioned three days to watch before the tube is needed?

Okay, so I raise peafowl and ducks. My adult peahens weigh 3-4 kg, Muscovy hens weigh 3-4 kg. If I find one of them weighing les than 2.8 kg I assume it's lost at least 5% of it's body weight, possible more, and it gets tube fed, period.

There are some instances where tubing should not be done and those are:

• Don't tube a bird that is unresponsive
• Don't tube a bird with a bowel obstruction
• Don't tube a bird that can't hold it's head up unless you can make some sort of nest with pillows or towels to keep it's head up
• Don't tube a fluids or food to hypothermic bird, get it warm first.
• Don't tube *food* to a dehydrated bird, correct hydration first.

If you follow the above guidelines you will be fine.

I said three days because I sense you're nervous about tubing and I don't want to push you into doing something that makes you uncomfortable. My gut says that when you weigh her you will find that she's already lost a bunch of weight (wiki says Pekins should weigh 4.1 kg of more), so how much she weighs tonight should dictate your treatment plan. If you weigh her tonight and she is 4 kg I think it's okay to hold off on tubing, but it she weighs 3 kg I think you need to seriously consider tubing sooner rather than later.

Does that help or make sense?

 

[WVduckchick]

Okay, so I raise peafowl and ducks. My adult peahens weigh 3-4 kg, Muscovy hens weigh 3-4 kg. If I find one of them weighing les than 2.8 kg I assume it's lost at least 5% of it's body weight, possible more, and it gets tube fed, period.

There are some instances where tubing should not be done and those are:

• Don't tube a bird that is unresponsive
• Don't tube a bird with a bowel obstruction
• Don't tube a bird that can't hold it's head up unless you can make some sort of nest with pillows or towels to keep it's head up
• Don't tube a fluids or food to hypothermic bird
• Don't tube *food* to a dehydrated bird, correct hydration first.

If you follow the above guidelines you will be fine.

I said three days because I sense you're nervous about tubing and I don't want to push you into doing something that makes you uncomfortable. My gut says that when you weigh her you will find that she's already lost a bunch of weight (wiki says Pekins should weigh 4.1 kg of more), so how much she weighs tonight should dictate your treatment plan. If you weigh her tonight and she is 4 kg I think it's okay to hold off on tubing, but it she weighs 3 kg I think you need to seriously consider tubing sooner rather than later.

Does that help or make sense?

 

[TashaFrancois]

I would let her have a warm supervised bath. Then wrap her in a warm towel and sooth her. Keep her in till fully healed and separate the drakes from all the ladies till they are all 100. Then consider more adult females if you want to keep all the boys. Maybe even make a coop for just the boys when you put them up for the night.

 

[casportpony]

I really hate disagreeing with people, but I think placing a bird like this in a bath is a bad idea for several reasons.

1. She looks sick to me and sick birds are almost always hypothermic.
2. Her feather coat is in bad shape, so getting her wet will probably make her more hypothermic.
3. She can't walk, and I don't think it's wise to put a bird that can't walk in water.

 

[TashaFrancois]

I really hate disagreeing with people, but I think placing a bird like this in a bath is a bad idea for several reasons.

1. She looks sick to me and sick birds are almost always hypothermic.
2. Her feather coat is in bad shape, so getting her wet will probably make her more hypothermic.
3. She can't walk, and I don't think it's wise to put a bird that can't walk in water.

I don’t mind. A warm bath has just happened to serve my flock well. I wouldn’t leave her in there. But Warm water could raise her temp and clean any wounds. Then I wrap them in a warm towel and hold them close and gently till dry. I’m no vet. Happy to hear others. Ty!

 

[C0987]

I know the thread is long, but it does cover all of the topics mentioned here in your thread.

The list:

• Aquarium air line, 16" should do.
• As large a syringe as you can find, something in the 30-60 ml range would be best, but if you cant find one that big, get several smaller ones, like 5 or 6 10 ml.
• Kaytee Exact Baby Bird Food
• Scale - either a kitchen scale, a bathroom scale, or a luggage scale. Note that a kitchen scale might only weigh up to 5 lg, so if she's a big, fat duck it might not work.

Make sure the syringe you get will fit in the end of the tube.

Hi I'm not sure if you are around I'm at the store now and can't seem to find anything that specifically says baby bird feed.

 

[chickens really]

Hi I'm not sure if you are around I'm at the store now and can't seem to find anything that specifically says baby bird feed.

It's a parrot vitamin if that's what your looking for?