Watery stool and now gasping and lethargic

You will need a microscope but it doesnt need to be super high powered. I use a childs microscope. Fecal float solution can be bought or made. You can find it online. As for her not eating but drinking lots of water and a full crop id think impacted crop or something digestive. In the interim until you can do a float id give .5 cc twice daily of liquid parrafin (mineral oil US equivalent)How do you I’d have to order a microscope, I hated microbiology wo this will be interesting.
You will need a microscope but it doesnt need to be super high powered. I use a childs microscope. Fecal float solution can be bought or made. You can find it online. As for her not eating but drinking lots of water and a full crop id think impacted crop or something digestive. In the interim until you can do a float id give .5 cc twice daily of liquid parrafin (mineral oil US equivalent)
I’ll have to order a microscope online or see if I can get one second hand. I disliked microbiology so this will be interesting. I will definitely try the mineral oil. My birds have an intense dislike of being handled so I did the water solution. What are your thoughts on ivermectin pour on? I may have a better chance with that grabbing them from the coop at night.
 
I’ll have to order a microscope online or see if I can get one second hand. I disliked microbiology so this will be interesting. I will definitely try the mineral oil. My birds have an intense dislike of being handled so I did the water solution. What are your thoughts on ivermectin pour on? I may have a better chance with that grabbing them from the coop at night.
Why would you want to use Ivermectin pour on when you would still have to handle your birds?
I used Ivermectin pour on long ago and found that it wont treat large roundworms in poultry due to worm resistance. You're better off using Safeguard liquid goat wormer or Valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer. Give it orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle, that way you know they got properly wormed, no guesswork about it. Either eliminates all types of roundworms.
The only thing mineral oil will do is give your birds the runs.
@Wyorp Rock gave you excellent advice. It would be in your best interest to follow it.
 
Why would you want to use Ivermectin pour on when you would still have to handle your birds?
I used Ivermectin pour on long ago and found that it wont treat large roundworms in poultry due to worm resistance. You're better off using Safeguard liquid goat wormer or Valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer. Give it orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle, that way you know they got properly wormed, no guesswork about it. Either eliminates all types of roundworms.
The only thing mineral oil will do is give your birds the runs.
@Wyorp Rock gave you excellent advice. It would be in your best interest to follow it.
Why would you want to use Ivermectin pour on when you would still have to handle your birds?
I used Ivermectin pour on long ago and found that it wont treat large roundworms in poultry due to worm resistance. You're better off using Safeguard liquid goat wormer or Valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer. Give it orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle, that way you know they got properly wormed, no guesswork about it. Either eliminates all types of roundworms.
The only thing mineral oil will do is give your birds the runs.
@Wyorp Rock gave you excellent advice. It would be in your best interest to follow it.
I am used to medicating human patients, not poultry. I have an aspiration concern with the oral meds.
 
Why would you want to use Ivermectin pour on when you would still have to handle your birds?
I used Ivermectin pour on long ago and found that it wont treat large roundworms in poultry due to worm resistance. You're better off using Safeguard liquid goat wormer or Valbazen liquid cattle/sheep wormer. Give it orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle, that way you know they got properly wormed, no guesswork about it. Either eliminates all types of roundworms.
The only thing mineral oil will do is give your birds the runs.
@Wyorp Rock gave you excellent advice. It would be in your best interest to follow it.
Mineral oil will work for an impacted crop. I have never had a bird get "the runs" from it. But that is from my experience. Sheep farmers will frequently treat their flock with mineral oil for digestive issues. Ive found that it works on chickens as well.
 
I am used to medicating human patients, not poultry. I have an aspiration concern with the oral meds.
I understand. It's easy to dose a chicken orally with a liquid.
I mostly use Valbazen to worm my birds. Dosage is 1/2ml given orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle.
The easiest way to worm chickens is to go out to the coop early in the morning just before sunrise. It would be best to have someone to go with you to hold the chicken while you worm her.
Preload your syringe, snatch a bird off the roost. Have the other person hold the bird for you. Pull the hens wattles down and her mouth will open. Quickly shoot the liquid in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles at the same time so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of her wattles right away, she can aspirate.
Then release her and snatch another bird off the roost and repeat the procedure until they are all wormed.
Practice it, like a dry run, without the liquid in the syringe. You'll get the hang of it real quick and it's easy to do.
There's another important advantage to this procedure: Your birds will not have eaten yet and will be starving, so will the worms. Feed them the wormer, it'll get rid of them for sure.
You may or may not see worms excreted in feces afterwards. They are usually digested as protein in the digestive tract.
Also, when you pull down on the wattles, if the hen starts shaking her head, just hold on and she will tire. Then you can dose her.
You'll also have to reworm your birds in 10-14 days to eliminate worms hatched from eggs previously missed by the initial treatment. Wormers have no effect on worm eggs in the chickens system.
 
I understand. It's easy to dose a chicken orally with a liquid.
I mostly use Valbazen to worm my birds. Dosage is 1/2ml given orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle.
The easiest way to worm chickens is to go out to the coop early in the morning just before sunrise. It would be best to have someone to go with you to hold the chicken while you worm her.
Preload your syringe, snatch a bird off the roost. Have the other person hold the bird for you. Pull the hens wattles down and her mouth will open. Quickly shoot the liquid in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles at the same time so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of her wattles right away, she can aspirate.
Then release her and snatch another bird off the roost and repeat the procedure until they are all wormed.
Practice it, like a dry run, without the liquid in the syringe. You'll get the hang of it real quick and it's easy to do.
There's another important advantage to this procedure: Your birds will not have eaten yet and will be starving, so will the worms. Feed them the wormer, it'll get rid of them for sure.
You may or may not see worms excreted in feces afterwards. They are usually digested as protein in the digestive tract.
Also, when you pull down on the wattles, if the hen starts shaking her head, just hold on and she will tire. Then you can dose her.
You'll also have to reworm your birds in 10-14 days to eliminate worms hatched from eggs previously missed by the initial treatment. Wormers have no effect on worm eggs in the chickens system.
I'll have to try this wattle trick. Ive always just let them bite me and then leave my finger in place until I can get the syringe in
 
Wormers have no effect on worm eggs in the chickens system.
Flubendazole does actually kill the eggs and larvae also.

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https://www.elanco.com.au/products-services/poultry/products/poultry-flubenol
 
I understand. It's easy to dose a chicken orally with a liquid.
I mostly use Valbazen to worm my birds. Dosage is 1/2ml given orally to each chicken using a syringe without a needle.
The easiest way to worm chickens is to go out to the coop early in the morning just before sunrise. It would be best to have someone to go with you to hold the chicken while you worm her.
Preload your syringe, snatch a bird off the roost. Have the other person hold the bird for you. Pull the hens wattles down and her mouth will open. Quickly shoot the liquid in her mouth and immediately let go of her wattles at the same time so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of her wattles right away, she can aspirate.
Then release her and snatch another bird off the roost and repeat the procedure until they are all wormed.
Practice it, like a dry run, without the liquid in the syringe. You'll get the hang of it real quick and it's easy to do.
There's another important advantage to this procedure: Your birds will not have eaten yet and will be starving, so will the worms. Feed them the wormer, it'll get rid of them for sure.
You may or may not see worms excreted in feces afterwards. They are usually digested as protein in the digestive tract.
Also, when you pull down on the wattles, if the hen starts shaking her head, just hold on and she will tire. Then you can dose her.
You'll also have to reworm your birds in 10-14 days to eliminate worms hatched from eggs previously missed by the initial treatment. Wormers have no effect on worm eggs in the chickens system.
I will try the wattle pull! Thanks so much!
 
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