What is the easiest roof to install?

[affacat]

So I've built several coops, and always used corrugated roofing and found it easy to install...

Until I started building 8x12 coops. At this point, I found the various difficulties to exponentially increase and absolutely hated working with them. My last one also had issues with minor leaks (first time for this) that were an absolute pain to fix (since I could no longer see rafters and couldn't put any weight on corrugation)

Any ideas for a super simple roof? Ive never shingled before, though I've watched vids on it... Its within my skill reach, but it certainly doesn't look fun or particularly easy (though they make it look easy with practice).

The roof I'm building is flat (but sloped) not an A frame.

 

[3KillerBs]

We found metal roofing set on purlins with self-tapping screws remarkably easy to handle.

Roofing discussion on our build thread start's here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24319159

There are detailed photos later on in the thread.

 

[Acre4Me]

Rubber roof sheet. Not sure if it needs a top layer, but it certainly needs a bottom layer. But, that’s not a huge piece…might be able to find some extra from a roofing business or off-cuts.

There is rubberized roof paint that some we people use for their coop floors, but it’s roof paint. Think it needs a top layer too, but possible option.

Some people have even used plastic/woven feed bags overlapping generously, to get them through several months or longer. But might not be a good option for a flat roof since water won’t be shed very fast.

We have metal roofing over our run, which is 50’x 10’, but it slants so the metal was 12’ long. It has supports beneath it (but not a solid sheet of anything) and has been walked on before without issue. Our coop roof is plywood with paper then shingles.

 

[mowin]

My coop roofs are OSB covered in felt paper, purlins, then metal roofing. I like a underlayment when using metal roofing to remove any chance of condensation forming on the underside, and dripping in the coop. Plenty strong enough to walk on and fast to install on a shed style roof.

 

[gtaus]

The roof I'm building is flat, not an A frame.

Do you have to worry about snow load where you live? A flat roof would really have to be well built and strong where I live to handle our snow loads. Also, flat roofs might be more prone to leaks. If you do go with a flat roof, spend the extra money and get a good rubber sheet to cover the roof.

I think the easiest roof to build and maintain is a slanted roof. Again, if you have snow load concerns, find out what slant you need for your location. One thing I really liked about a slanted roof on a chicken coop is that you can put all kinds of ventilation on the high side of the slant, and warm air and moisture will rise and exhaust naturally on the high side.

I built a gambrel roof (like a barn) on my chicken coop, and I really think that style has many advantages. You get a much larger volume of air that rises up into that gambrel space and exhausts at the top. Some people will make part of the gambrel roof as storage, because there is just so much more space in that design. However, it was the most complicated roof I have personally built and I would not call it easy. If you have some skills, then a gambrel roof is a great option.

Stock google pic of a gambrel roof shed construction...

 

[mowin]

Do you have to worry about snow load where you live? A flat roof would really have to be well built and strong where I live to handle our snow loads. Also, flat roofs might be more prone to leaks. If you do go with a flat roof, spend the extra money and get a good rubber sheet to cover the roof.

I think the easiest roof to build and maintain is a slanted roof. Again, if you have snow load concerns, find out what slant you need for your location. One thing I really liked about a slanted roof on a chicken coop is that you can put all kinds of ventilation on the high side of the slant, and warm air and moisture will rise and exhaust naturally on the high side.

I built a gambrel roof (like a barn) on my chicken coop, and I really think that style has many advantages. You get a much larger volume of air that rises up into that gambrel space and exhausts at the top. Some people will make part of the gambrel roof as storage, because there is just so much more space in that design. However, it was the most complicated roof I have personally built and I would not call it easy. If you have some skills, then a gambrel roof is a great option.

Stock google pic of a gambrel roof shed construction...

View attachment 3110393

I didn't catch the "flat" part. Hopefully the OP is thinking shed roof which is flat, but with a pitch...

 

[3KillerBs]

I like a underlayment when using metal roofing to remove any chance of condensation forming on the underside, and dripping in the coop.

This is a great example of how climate matters.

For me, condensation is unlikely to occur both because the necessary conditions are rare in my climate AND because it's an open air design,

AND if it did occur, it wouldn't be a problem as long as it didn't drip right on the roosts, again because it's an open air design with deep litter.

BUT for you or anyone else who has a normal coop in a climate subject to strong swings of temperature and humidity and, especially warm, wet days followed by cold nights^, it's really critical to prevent condensation.

^I remember snow-melting season being really bad for that when I lived up north.

However, it was the most complicated roof I have personally built and I would not call it easy.

Gambrels are also difficult to ventilate properly unless very well-designed. Most people don't put that window up as high as you did.

 

[mowin]

This is a great example of how climate matters.

For me, condensation is unlikely to occur both because the necessary conditions are rare in my climate AND because it's an open air design,

AND if it did occur, it wouldn't be a problem as long as it didn't drip right on the roosts, again because it's an open air design with deep litter.

BUT for you or anyone else who has a normal coop in a climate subject to strong swings of temperature and humidity and, especially warm, wet days followed by cold nights^, it's really critical to prevent condensation.

^I remember snow-melting season being really bad for that when I lived up north.



Gambrels are also difficult to ventilate properly unless very well-designed. Most people don't put that window up as high as you did.

Agree 100%. I'm hopeful that when the wife and I move to Tennessee in a few years, I'll be able to skip the underlayment and just do purlins and metal.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Metal roofing is the easiest thing for a non-roofer to do quickly and correctly, whether on purlins or attached to decking. No roof should have less than a 3/12 pitch, unless you are willing to go with some rather more expensive materials and additional maintenance. ANY roof you build, you should be able to walk (in places) on.

For a host of reasons, with metal roofing, I prefer the "5v profile", rather than the "wave profile" - but two of those reasons involve leaks and walking on it.

and as others have said, climate matters. I'm just nodding agreement.

 

[affacat]

Do you have to worry about snow load where you live? A flat roof

Will respond to your entire post but I noticed I confused a few of you by accident.

Roof is definitely sloped. I misused flat... I meant a single plane, not an A frame. But there is still a nice slope to shed weather