What meat chickens should I raise? What's the differences?

Brunty_Farms

Songster
12 Years
Apr 29, 2007
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Ohio
So, I've seen about 500 billion threads on here with what to raise. Either they have heard horror stories on the cornish x, want to be sustainable, or just want raise a bird that free ranges with their layers without adding much additional chores. Which is completely fine, this is the meat birds section I guess, but it would be nice to direct newbies or polished layer veterans that are looking into raising chickens for meat. So please, add to this thread with your experiences good or bad so people can read through and find out what fits them best. Things that you intend to do, that you did, or that you would have done differently...

My experiences :

DP or Dual Purpose

These are birds that are not really designed for meat or eggs, they simply fall into the cracks of both. Heritage breeds consist of both rare and not so rare breeds and many of them fall into the Dual Purpose category. Layers don't really lay massive amounts of eggs but they hold their own, usually laying steadily all year long. The males, despite what people have claimed, do dress out to a nice weight of about 5 pounds usually after 20 weeks. My experience is I like to process them at 16 weeks for about 3.5 pound fryers. They make the best fried chicken because unlike the CX crosses the meat is very lean and thin. They fry very uniform making it nice not to pull them out of the fryer to find out they aren't cooked all the way. Overall they are a perfect bird for starters. Would recommend raising a batch of dual purpose roosters for meat before trying any other meat bird category.

PROS

- They free range extremely well, definitely work for their food, and do it willingly even with having grain 24/7 available. The enticing pastures are extremely appealing to dual purpose breeds with their lush green forage and ample supply of insects it surely is a nice fit.

- Meat is extremely flavorful if processed before 24 weeks. The meat seems to take on an extra "toughness" after this 6 month time frame and quick cooking methods could make the experience even worse. For tender meat that comes with any cooking method, process before 24 weeks. Not only are the males good for meat but the females make amazing soup chickens. I'm amazed at the amount of meat that an old layer from a dual purpose breed will give you. Dual purpose is a win / win for meat. Both females and males will suffice for the table. Females will usually dress 4-5 pounds at 3-5 years. Males will be 3.5 - 5 pounds in 24 weeks.

- Layers seem to lay well in just about any climate. Certain dual purpose breeds do better in cooler weather than others but for the most part they can be raised just about anywhere. The eggs are extremely tasty due to their aggressiveness to forage for what they eat. Fertility isn't really an issue with dual purpose breeds and the majority of them make excellent mothers. Because this is the meat bird section and not the "breed" section I can't emphasize enough on their "soup" making capabilities. They are worth their weight in gold and bring just as much money as a pullet when processed for market. Layers will lay productively for 3-5 years.

- Feathers from males can be sold to fly fisherman for their making of flies. Bringing in additional income. Some capes and hackles can bring upward of $5-10 which in some cases is more than the chicken is worth.

- If marketed right, dual purpose can be sold for higher prices because they are grown more naturally and live longer. Due to the older age comes more enhanced flavor.

- Eggs are also higher in demand, especially if the dual purpose breed is bred for certain traits. Eggs can be sold to other poultry enthusiast for top dollar, sometimes exceeding $20.00 / dozen.

- If the world ended tomorrow and if you were removed from the grid, if you had an established dual purpose flock you could maintain that flock for years to come. Since dual purpose are also good mothers, the need for incubators and brooders would be obsolete.

- You only would need one coop for your operation, since males would be processed before sexual maturity you wouldn't have to worry about them harassing your hens. Just make sure to add additional feeder space.

CONS

- Dual Purpose are hard to market due to their slimmer carcass weights. Frankly customers are not used to this and are sometimes taken back from the odd shape of them.

- Less overall meat compared to other breeds that are designed specifically for meat.

- feed to meat ratio is often extremely higher than breeds designed specifically for meat.

- If chicks are to be hatched at your farm, it can be costly to raise a breeder flock to hatch out chicks. If wanting to go into the business of selling extra roosters you would need incubators to keep your breeder flock laying adding additional expense in equipment.

- overall they take 4- 6 months to see meat on your table or your customers, which could be too long if you live a busy lifestyle or have a short season to grow.

- Not only do you have to maintain the chicks but also the breeder flock, or buy from a local hatchery.

- With older chickens comes the issues of crowing, which if you have touchy neighbors or value your sleep, it could be a problem.

- Difficult to process, mainly due to a harder keel bone which makes eviscerating a tough job for large hands. Feather is colored will leave a pigment behind and older birds will have "hair" on them as well which will need to be singed off. Especially in birds over 16 weeks.

WEBSITES

http://www.meyerhatchery.com/
http://www.mthealthy.com/
http://www.mcmurrayhatchery.com/index.html


CX or Cornish Rock or Broilers
The commercial broiler or the cornish x rock was introduced I believe in the late 40's early 50's and have been the choice for commercial farms ever since. Despite claims these birds are only genetically superior through select breeding, not by being genetically modified. Simply put these birds are a terminal line. Their sole purpose in life is to be processed in 6-12 weeks... period. The feed to meat ratio of these birds is extreme and commercial producers sometimes get 1.9 pounds of feed per one pound of live weight gained. Backyard producers it's more like 2.5 pounds per pound of live weight gained due to inexperience and lack of proper facilities and equipment. If you're looking for meat to put on your table quick... these are it. If you're looking for something a bit more "fun" to raise and want to hatch out your own chicks ect. these definitely are not for you. I can't emphasize enough that these are solely for meat... they are not pets and they are not pretty like a silkie. They are strictly bred for function and not for a fad. White feathers, light skin (white or yellow), and short squatty stance. All of which are great characteristics of a good meat bird.


PROS

- Price of chicks are relatively cheap sometimes can be purchased for as low as $0.55.

- both males and females make excellent meat birds

- Fast meat for the table, you get on average 3.5 - 4 pounds of meat in 7 weeks. Unlike DP or Heritage, these birds will weigh out at 20 plus pounds at 20 weeks if grown that long.

- Great feed to meat ratio of 1.9-1 which is extremely efficient. Second only to salmon.

- Usually only ties up 7- 8 weeks of time throughout one year.

- Large meat to bone ratio

- Due to the young age, they are extremely efficient to process. Bones are soft and cavities are easy to access because of the width of the birds.

- can be pasture raised in tractors, when properly managed these birds will forage for 10-25% of their food. Compared to being raised in confinement.

- If managed properly on pasture or even in confinement, most of the commercial problems do not pertain to backyard enthusiast or small scale producers. Such as heart failure, leg problems, ect.

CONS

- Unsustainable, meaning that new chicks must be purchased every year. Even if breeders were to be grown to breeding age, the cost to feed them would be way more than their worth. Making DP breeds cheaper to raise if you had to become sustainable with CX.

- Without proper care, will have issues with joints in legs making them not willing to walk or search for food. Mainly from overfeeding, or too high protein. But could be caused from not enough exercise as well.

- Without proper care, will have heart issues that will cause birds to die. Mainly from over feeding, or too high of protein. But could be caused from not enough exercise as well.

- Do not free range willingly. These birds must have feed withheld for them to search for their food. Unlike DP's that could have 100% access to feed and still have the will to free range, CX's do not. If given feed 24/7 they will not venture very far from the feeders or waters. Which make them ideal candidates for confinement settings.

- Need a separate building or tractor away from layers. Because they require different needs of both feed and pasture, both need to be separated. This makes it difficult for someone that doesn't have the time, money, or ambition to keep two separate coops / tractors.

- May not be appealing to the average poultry enthusiast that is used to a pretty colorful bird. CX's are solid white and go through an awkward growth stage due to the rapid growth.

- The amount of manure may be offsetting for some, these birds consume a lot of feed in a short time thus giving plenty of manure. Without adequate bedding it can be extremely messy causing foot rot or sneezing due to the ammonia levels.

WEBSITES

http://www.schlechthatchery.com/
http://www.welphatchery.com/
http://www.centralhatchery.com/



Colored Broilers or Freedom Rangers

These birds are a cross between the common commercial broiler and standard dual purpose. Mostly containing genes that resemble the common broiler such as good growth rate, larger breast meat, thick body structure and a strong will to eat. However they grow slower giving them a better chance to have their bone structure catch up with the rate of gain. With this, they free range more willingly and have more stamina. Hens and roosters are designed for meat and not a good choice for eggs. Many pasture based operations decide to raise these because of their hardiness to pasture, slower growth, and intense flavor.

PROS

- Birds are readily available through multiple hatcheries

- Aggressive foragers and do well on pasture based systems.

- Meat to bone ratio is more like the common broiler making the carcass a bit more appealing than a dual purpose

- Colorful, for those wanting a pretty bird, these are appealing to the eye compared to just white feathers.

- Can be grown with layers, so people with limited space can get by with one coop instead of a separate one for meat chickens.

- More forgiving if mistakes are made by the beginner or novice chicken keeper. Being hardier birds they don't need much additional care, unlike the commercial broilers.

- Good flavor, because the bird is 12 - 14 weeks when processed the flavor is truly amazing. You get the tenderness of a commercial broiler but the flavor of an older DP rooster.

- Great birds to market to people of ethnic backgrounds that want a meatier bird than the DP breeds but still with the color. Popular colors are black, red, and buff feathered.

CONS

- Unsustainable, meaning that new chicks must be purchased every year. Even if breeders were to be grown to breeding age, the cost to feed them would be way more than their worth. Making DP breeds cheaper to raise if you had to become sustainable with colored broilers.

-You do have to rely on a hatchery and chicks are more expensive than the commercial broiler

- Because of the grow out time it does make them more expensive to raise than the commercial broiler. In the same time frame it takes to grow out, you can get two batches of CX in, compared to just one of the colored broilers.

- Pricing is higher, grow out time is longer, FCR (feed conversion rate) is lower making these birds a specialty item to sell to markets. A niche market must be created so customers will pay a premium price.

- Feathers are colored making processing more difficult, pin feathers will be apparent and "ink" will be shown under the skin.

- Produce a larger amount of manure than the DP breeds, making it a bit of an issue when brooding. Not as bad as the CX's though.


WEBSITES

http://www.moyerschicks.com
http://www.jmhatchery.com
http://www.ideal-poultry.com/
 
BigRedFeathers Post.... so it doesn't get lost. Also a link to the actual post...... https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=436974

With so many newbies asking questions on raising Cornish X’s, I thought I would put together a post on how I raise them. I am not saying my way is the only way or the right way, but it is how I do it. I have had great livability percentages and great final results using this method. So, here it goes.

The Brooder
When I am expecting an order of CX chicks, the first thing to get ready is the brooder. If I haven’t already done it, the day before they arrive, I put down fresh wood shavings, starting with 1-2”. I also plug in the heat lamp, fill the waterer, and fill the feed tray. You always want newly arrived chicks to have water to drink that is not tap water temp, as it can bring down their body temp very quickly. My brooders are 5’x9’, and I hang 2 heat lamps about a foot apart in the center of the brooder. Just like other chicks, CX’s know what temp they need, and will move in and out from under the lamp as needed. By placing it in the center, it keeps brooder temp uniform and at the same time, allows them ample room to move away from the heat. As far as size of the brooder, I figure ¾ of a sqft/chick, assuming they are going to be in there for 3 weeks. You could put more, but I have found unless you are going to change litter daily, this is about the right density. I still have to rebed, but only 2-3 times in 3 weeks. Under no circumstances will I ever brood them in my house. They are fine for the first few days, but after that the smell and the dander will drive you nuts. I have a simple rule, NO LIVESTOCK IN THE HOUSE!

They’re Here
When the chicks arrive, they promptly go to the prewarmed brooder. After putting them in, I will stand there and observe them for a few minutes. After a few hours, I go back and check again. If they are all huddled under the lamp, I move the lamp down a little to increase the brooder temp. If they are going about their business, I leave it alone. I have my lamps on small chains and attach them to hooks, allowing me to easily adjust the height. I have found that the sooner you can wean them from the heat, the quicker they will feather. After the first week, weather permitting, I will unplug the heat lamp during the warmest part of the day for a bit, increasing the time a little each day. In doing this, it allows me to get them out of the brooder and into the tractor by at least 3 weeks of age. During warmer weather, I have gotten them out to the pasture as early as 2 weeks.

Feeding
Cornishes are eating machines. It still amazes me how much they can eat. As a rough guide, I figure a total of 18-20 pounds per chick. I use a custom made 22% feed from my mill. Cornishes will literally eat themselves to death if allowed, so it is important not to overfeed them. Most will suggest feeding them 24/7 for the first 2 weeks and then 12 hours w/ feed and 12 w/out. I agree with this, as it does keep their growth at a pace that will keep their livability % higher. I, however, have been going about it differently. I give them only the amount of feed I want them to consume in a day. I have a chart that gives the approximate daily food consumption for up to 8 weeks. I found the chart on here a while back, and have found it very useful. I have modified it to my liking, and always have average weights of 4-5 pounds in 8 weeks, while having almost no flips. Sure you can feed them more and get them bigger faster, but for me, the reassurance of not losing a bird at the 6 week mark to CHF is well worth it. Staring from day one, I always make sure all of them have a “place at the table” when feed is given. At this point from experience, I know at what mark I need to add feeder space. To figure it out, after you give them feed, just make sure they all fit at the feeder. If they don’t, add more feeder space.

Watering
CX’s will drink a tremendous amount of water in a days time, especially in warm weather. Just like other breeds, it is important to have clean water in front of them at all times. After 5 weeks of age, it is nothing for 80 of them to drink over 10 gallons a day.

Housing
I use the tractor method. As stated above, I most always have them out to pasture by 3 weeks. It is very helpful for them to start to eat greens at this age, as the nutrition in the greens result in much healthier birds. I am also a firm believer that the amount of sunlight they get from being outside is beneficial. My pasture mix is a horse pasture blend of white clover and 4 or 5 types of grass hay. The birds love the clover. As soon as I start to move the tractor, most of them will move to the front to get to the new pasture. My tractors are 10’x10’, and I put right at 70 per, giving them around 1.5 sqft per bird. Tractor density is more important than people think. If you have them too dense, it is tough to keep enough feed in front of them and some will get shorted, resulting in some smaller birds. If you don’t have it dense enough, they will not grow as well due to lack of competition. Not sure of the science behind it, but I can tell you from experience it is a factor. At any rate, I am happy with the results I get with this density. I move the tractor at least once a day, twice on the weekends or when I am home all day.

Raising this breed properly will result in a bounty of reward. You can get a very nice eating size bird in a relatively short period of time. No other breed will ever give you as proportional breast and dark meat as these. The Cornish often gets a bad rap, unrightfully so. They are not genetically modified and are not frankenbirds as I have often seen the called. People who have problems often get into them not being fully knowledgeable of how to properly take care of them. As a result, they spread a fury of misinformation about their expirience. I think that this misinformation hinders some folks from even trying them, which IMHO is wrong. Under no circumstances will they ever “die for no reason” or just break a leg walking. I have never had one go down from bad legs and have had very few flips. If either if these happen, it is from improper care, not the breed.

I hope this is insightful for those of you considering trying your hand at this breed, and hopefully it clears up some of the misinformation people spread. Once again, I am not saying this is the right way or the only way to raise these, just my way.​
 
It was not my intent to reintroduce the debate on CX : raise them , or not , nor to rip Bossdoo . I appreciate Jeff's summary and choose not to enter into the old arguements I've seen go on here . The CX is the most logical bird to feed the masses IMHO ; I also see the importance of preserving heritage breeds and developing better strains reproduced without elaborate crosses , especially when the bulk of the parent stock necessary to produce commercial meaties are owned by one or two corporations . I accept the fact that some can see only one side or the other , but personally believe that Jeff's summary is enough to help those with open minds decide which category of chicken best suits them .
 
Oh. Yeah. Sorry. I forgot about hobbies!

I was nettled by this for a moment ... then I thought: Well, the grid ISN'T down, I can still jump in my gasburner and drive down the block to buy 99 cent per pound factory chicken at the supermarket. I am not at all interested in running a commercial chicken operation, even a small one, not even just to share chicken with friends. I am only interested in growing chicken for myself, and I don't care about getting the optimal feed to weight conversion rate. So, in fact, you're right: chicken rearing and butchering are my hobbies. Strange hobbies indeed!

Thanks for the original post; I found it extremely interesting!​
 
Jeff I don't see how anyone could add to this. Very comprehensive and well stated, it would be nice if they stuck it to the top of the page. Perhaps you could also write one answering "How do I get stated with meat birds?" as that is the second most common question here. Good job.
 
Great post Jeff... however, your premice is great for Ohio and many other locals, but not so good here in the arrid far West where there is little rainfall ... from a shower or two in late Nov. then mid Dec. to Feb, and then sparce showers to April (average of 11" per year, 6.5" last 4 years) , brown grass for about 7 months of the year, so the chickens will not eat the dead grass. As for insects, we have plenty of ants and stink bugs which the chickens will not eat. Very few crickets and grasshoppers that can be counted as 1 per 1000 sq feet in the spring. As for free ranging, we count coyotes and roaming dogs thicker than theives. Tons of racoons, possums, skunks,bobcats, snakes, eagles, and hawks, which all in all makes life of a free ranging chicken dicey at best. Therefore, chickens must be raised in coops and runs. There are quite a few chicken coops with runs in my area but most are abandoned due to the larger predators breaking in and killing off the chickens plus the extreame heat ( 98* - 117*) of summer and early fall ( june- Oct) I raise my Cornish X inside my horse barn ( each stall 16x 24=384sq' / 25birds= 15.36 sq ft. / bird) and feed them 2.2 pounds of feed for a yield of a pound of meat. 6-8 weeks ( 25 birds 3x per year) and I am done . I used to raise the PBR, RIR, NHs and their x's similarly confined. My hens used to hatch their own chicks, but sometimes the numerous rats would kill some or all of the chicks. So I made very secure housing in additional stalls for the broody hens. This required 2-3 stalls depending on number and spacing of the hatch ( 1 stall for parent flock then 1-2 for the offspring) vs. 1stall for 3rounds of 25 of CX. My DP chicks ate close to 5 pounds of feed to yield a pound of meat and it took 16-20 weeks to accomplish that feat. Not counting costs of upkeep of parent flock, my labor, housing, etc., just the cost of feed for the chicks... for the CX - 2.2 pounds (for my feed conversion rate) at $14.95 /50 lbs = $0.598 /pound of meat in 6-8 weeks. While my DP chicks... very close to 5 pounds of feed at $14.95/50 pounds= $ 1.495 / pound of meat in 16-20 weeks. So, $1.495 / $0.598 = 2.5 times the cost for feed for my purchased CX and 2 to 3 x times as long. I can raise at least 50 ( ave 4.5lbs x 50= 225 lbs. of meat)and up to 75 ( 4.5lbs. x 75= 337.5 lbs of meat) CXs in the same time and space ( 1 stall) as I can raise my 25 ( 4.5lbs. x 25=112.5lbs of meat) DPs. How sustainable is that to my wallet for the DP especially in this economy?
 
Nice Thread. I have been raising dual purpose birds for a few years. There are a couple things that make the dual purpose for meat a good and sustainable choice for us. We are already involved in breeding several breeds and sell a number of products that more than cover our costs. We sell eating eggs year round, and sell hatching eggs in late winter and spring for $$, day old straight run chicks in spring and pullets year round. We chose breeds that are dual purpose and somewhat on the rare side so the hatching eggs, chicks and pullets command a good price from backyarders and fanciers. Our meat birds are sort of a byproduct of the operation. I end up with a lot of cockerels every summer, more than our family can possibly eat in one year. I end up having to grow out a large number of cockerels to 20 to 24 months to select my breeders for next year. These boys day range and forage actively. Right around this age they make excellent eating. and we get great eggs year round. I butcher a few at a time. There are downsides to this approach of course. The commitment to time of raising and breeding is not for everyone. The roosters do start harassing the hens much earlier than 24 weeks so I like to keep the cockerels separate once they start acting up. There is a lot of crowing. The processing is not as easy as Cornish cross broilers, dark pin feathers etc.

The flavor of the dual purpose breeds is excellent, I personally prefer more dark to light meat and love roasted chicken. But your buyers must be informed about the product so they don't treat it as a store bought chicken in the preparation and cooking.

I have created a demand among my friends for this delicious home grown chicken and cannot meet the demand with my casual kill a few roosters a week habit. So I am thinking of trying some of the Freedom Rangers this summer in a day range management setup. This thread has been very helpful.

Thanks

Andy
 

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