What to do about my roosters mating habits.

[oregonkat]

Greetings oregonkat,

I make my hen saddles, but you can purchase some nice ones on Amazon (a bit pricey) or at the Krazy K online store, and, Etsy also sells them online.

http://www.crazykfarm.com/products.html

www.amazon.com/dp/B0794VWYD1/ref=twister_B078Z6V4W6

Hope this helps.
God Bless

Excellent, thank you. I ordered 2 from the crazyk people. BTW I like your roosters shoes! Very creative.

 

[MABEchicks]

First, a couple of questions: Why do you even have a rooster? Do you intend to raise chicks? If so, will you be happy to have future generations of chicks be smaller than your LF birds? Is the roo even fertilizing the eggs? By the location of the wear on their wings, I'm thinking he's missing the mark entirely. Is it really worth it to you to have a roo treading your hens when he can't even hit the target? If he is fertilizing those eggs, I recommend that you never hatch his offspring. Mean begets mean.

We all have our own flock goals. But, if it were my flock, I would rehome that boy with full disclosure to his man hating behavior that seems to be getting worse. Then, if I wanted to be raising future chicks, I would get a docile roo of an appropriate size. Follow up question for that scenario: will you be able to, in good conscience cull the many roos that will hatch under your care, and will you be able and willing to cull any abnormal/failure to thrive chicks that you hatch?

If hatching chicks was not part of my flock management plans, I would choose not to have a roo. Benefits of not having a roo: hens who are not harassed, hens who have all of their feathers, being able to sleep in on a Saturday morning without the Roo serenade. Happier neighbors.

Finally, that roo needs some dominance training. Human aggressive birds are a law suit waiting to happen. Spurs or no spurs, he could do some serious damage to the face of a child. Here's a post written by my friend, @Beekissed :

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Thank you for all that information. I said in my post that I kept him because I like how he’s dominate outside while their free ranging. He alerts when a hawk is near, he calls them to the best snacks, and he’s always checking on them. He’s a good boy but I think his extra toe (he’s a silkie) that sticks up is scratching them right up by their wings. He’s an awkward guy but I’m hoping once I get some aprons on the girls and really clip his long nails it will help. We are working on the dominance problem, but I like the idea in this post. I’ll be trying that. It would be easiest to just rehome him but I enjoy the comfort he gives me knowing he’s outside looking out for them. Thank you!